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Old 09-14-2013, 11:40 AM   #1
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After doing the drywall in my sons room, I found out just how hard it is to do gentle angles....90's are easy....they have a tool for that....but not for 33.5 deg.

Now that I'm ready to tackle the master bedroom with it's 11' high ceilings....and knowing how I hate heights....and how bad I am at angles....I'm trying something here.

As you can see in the pic....I have a flat section of ceiling (37" wide) and then it angles with the slope of the roof (22.5 deg).



So rather than cut the drywall 37" wide......I scored the backside down the length at 5.5" on each side.





Gave it a gently little break.....



And lifted into position....



With the supervision of our cat Josie....



I must admit.....perfect seams....or lack of seams....but rather a perfect crease....or, what ever you want to call it....



I do have one 'less than perfect' spot where it meets the wall...the drywall did not break cleanly and my line went off straight a little....I'll see how bad it is when I get the sides up and some tape on the corners....if necessary, I'll cut the crease and tape it...it's only about 6"....but with the other lines absolutely perfect, it kind of stands out.

Side note...I tried the same method on 90's....no go....you have to be perfectly square....and when you go to screw the other piece, it pulls on the board and pulls the paper away...my guess is that anything more than a 45 needs tape.

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Old 09-14-2013, 02:23 PM   #2
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I think you did just fine!

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Old 09-14-2013, 09:40 PM   #3
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Its not how you usually do it but i do not see why it wont work
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:25 AM   #4
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are you prepare to do a major fix? instead of having a solid backing(mud) behind the paper you have air and the paper will continue to separate. Through time and even sooner when you paint. annnnnd ouch! if you try and texture this it will separate immeadiately causing air bubbles.
Sir, there is a reason things are done a certain way in drywall. Drywall is not easy and you're setting yourself up for a major disappointment. I seen this first hand.
fix it buy cutting the front side. use straightflex with joint compound and do it right to assure there will be no problems later on..
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Old 09-15-2013, 09:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drywallfinisher View Post
are you prepare to do a major fix? instead of having a solid backing(mud) behind the paper you have air and the paper will continue to separate. Through time and even sooner when you paint. annnnnd ouch! if you try and texture this it will separate immeadiately causing air bubbles.
Sir, there is a reason things are done a certain way in drywall. Drywall is not easy and you're setting yourself up for a major disappointment. I seen this first hand.
fix it buy cutting the front side. use straightflex with joint compound and do it right to assure there will be no problems later on..
damn. and i thought his idea was awesome.

what about putting tape and mud, or something else, on the backside before putting it up ?
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix'n it

damn. and i thought his idea was awesome.

what about putting tape and mud, or something else, on the backside before putting it up ?
Yea, me too. It would be awesome if it would work.. But I have never seen it done by a pro.

I guess what drywallfinisher is saying is that the paper at the joint has nothing to back it up, and will crack out?
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Old 09-15-2013, 02:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drywallfinisher View Post
are you prepare to do a major fix? instead of having a solid backing(mud) behind the paper you have air and the paper will continue to separate. Through time and even sooner when you paint. annnnnd ouch! if you try and texture this it will separate immeadiately causing air bubbles.
Sir, there is a reason things are done a certain way in drywall. Drywall is not easy and you're setting yourself up for a major disappointment. I seen this first hand.
fix it buy cutting the front side. use straightflex with joint compound and do it right to assure there will be no problems later on..
I'm going to disagree...

If I were to do this as you suggested.....I would still end up with a butt joint that would look like this....



Tape or no tape....I still end up with the same solid backing....I'm at a loss as to what the difference is going to be.....except my way....I have solid paper....

Now it is worth pointing out that any angle greater than this will have issues....I tried it on some other corners and I had issues where the paper did pull away when I went to screw down the other side.

Also notice in this pic that I'm showing the worst.....you can see where the line got a little off.....from the ground, it's almost impossible to see....still looks 100% better than a taped joint.

I'll take my chances....and report back in a few years if you end up being right.
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Old 09-15-2013, 03:35 PM   #8
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Have to agree with drywaller,
I can see what he's saying about any finish applied to the bend will sooner or later soak through that paper with no gypsum behind it.
I also thought cutting the rock the way you did is/was an awesome idea to concur that problem.
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Old 09-15-2013, 08:24 PM   #9
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that method works but i definitely dont have the balls to attempt it on a ceiling angle like that. i've done it in a closet where it wont be seen or where there is a doorway close to a wall and it saves you cutting a 2" strip and taping it.
to get perfect angles on that ceiling i recommend using no coats ultra flex 450
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Old 09-16-2013, 01:34 PM   #10
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I have and probrley would never do it this way but i dont see why it would not work.You have recesed seems like that anyway.The only problem that i could see is the tape coming loose eventually on the angle iam a hanger and not much of a tapper so i couldnt really answer the long term effect.
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Old 09-16-2013, 04:02 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jmayspaint View Post
I guess what drywallfinisher is saying is that the paper at the joint has nothing to back it up, and will crack out?
Well let's think about this, because I love the basic concept.

A regular seam has tape, and the tape is embedded in compound. It's true that compound gets pressed into the gap behind the tape, but that could very easily be done here too, just by scraping compound in there before you put it up. Certainly it's not structural in a regular joint, or in this joint.

So the next problem is simply that most paper tape has compound on top of it. Well that would be easily handled by simply laying a bead of compound on that seam and then tooling it with a bat knife. Problem solved, as far as I can tell. That would also help cover up the minor inconsistencies he was complaining about in his photo. I'll definitely be trying this next chance I get.

http://www.all-wall.com/Categories/C...Bat-Knife.html

Last edited by jeffnc; 09-16-2013 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:43 PM   #12
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Sorry but I have to vote on the side that doesn't think it will work. I think this is an area you will have an ongoing cracking problem
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:46 PM   #13
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Any predictions on when or how soon it will crack or the paper will separate?

I'm going to save a copy of this link and update everyone in a few weeks (months/years).

If some of you are right, then the update should be in a few weeks...if your wrong....well, the update might take awhile....
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:54 PM   #14
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I don't know if it will crack or not, but I've seen joints like that crack when taped the standard method. It's all about framing deflection- if the wood moves-it'll crack
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:23 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by princelake View Post
that method works but i definitely dont have the balls to attempt it on a ceiling angle like that. i've done it in a closet where it wont be seen or where there is a doorway close to a wall and it saves you cutting a 2" strip and taping it.
to get perfect angles on that ceiling i recommend using no coats ultra flex 450
+1 under stairwell closets is the only place I've seen this used in professional applications.

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