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Old 11-20-2012, 08:17 PM   #31
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tearing down old plaster walls, insulating and putting up drywall


the roxul isn't hard to work with. you could save a lot of money DIY'ing.

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Old 11-25-2012, 11:41 PM   #32
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tearing down old plaster walls, insulating and putting up drywall


Go in and cut the nails holding the lath on from the back. Ocilating saw or reciprocating.
Should be able to do it and leave the old trim on.
Photo please, hard to understand exactly what you are trying to do
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Old 11-26-2012, 04:44 AM   #33
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tearing down old plaster walls, insulating and putting up drywall


Pictures are on Page 2 of the thread. I think I will be able to remove the window and door casings without breaking or cracking them. I was concerned that the drywall would not line up with the door jamb, but I think it's going to be fine. There's a 1 inch gap between door jamb and casing. The wall is going to be built out nailing lath to the studs and then hanging drywall over it.

As for the people who said they've never heard of plaster over drywall, obviously you're not from New England.
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Old 11-26-2012, 08:39 PM   #34
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tearing down old plaster walls, insulating and putting up drywall


My $.02 I don"t know what I was thinking in my first answer That I never heard of plaster over drywall DUH that's what blue board is for. As for your jambs I'm not sure. I know when you get pre hung doors for plaster walls they have to be ordered because regular pre hung is not wide enough.
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Old 11-27-2012, 08:45 PM   #35
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tearing down old plaster walls, insulating and putting up drywall


Have your drywall installer shim the studs; in older houses, studs were cut and installed "green" without drying--- or dried outdoors for a season or so, not kiln dried (controlled result). The stud twisted every which way as it dried. Installed in your wall are "plaster grounds" - strips of wood behind the jamb trim boards and at the baseboard line. The plasterer used a straight-edge screed board to level the surface using the plaster grounds as the thickness gauge. Your studs may vary by 3/8" or so in "plane" across the wall. Some ares took 5/8" (standard) plaster thickness- next to the P.G., and other areas may be 1" thick. Simply adding lath furring to each stud may not be in plane... someone needs to check for straight across the wall as well as vertically, and shim the shims accordingly.

BTW- o.c.SPF is rated at 3.6 per inch, aged (thermal drift) and may require an additional vapor retarder in Zones 5-8= depends on the wall make-up.

ADA the drywall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/

Where are you located?

Gary

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