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Old 11-20-2012, 09:04 AM   #16
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tearing down old plaster walls, insulating and putting up drywall


I will post a pic later today. Can you please explain in layman's terms by "expect the rocker to fur out the walls appropriately so that everything lands straight". Not sure what you mean by rocker and fur out the walls. Thanks.

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Old 11-20-2012, 09:35 AM   #17
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Hope these pictures help clarify. This is a room with two exterior walls and the door in the picture goes to a closet.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:37 AM   #18
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PS. In case you're wondering, the wall in the photo with the door backs up to the attic stairwell.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:48 AM   #19
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I will post a pic later today. Can you please explain in layman's terms by "expect the rocker to fur out the walls appropriately so that everything lands straight". Not sure what you mean by rocker and fur out the walls. Thanks.
The rocker is the guy that hangs the sheetROCK. And to fur out the walls it means he will put shims on some of the studs so it is flat the whole length of the wall, otherwise the wall would look wavy when you look down it. Hope this clarifies.
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Old 11-20-2012, 09:55 AM   #20
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Hey Toolseeker - do you have any thoughts on my original question - someone said that when the walls is hung (and he did suggest bring out the wall with a firring strip), if I take the window and door frames off, when I try to put them back, there will be a gap where the door jamb is and would have to put on a door jam extension.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:00 PM   #21
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You should be able to pull that lathe right out from behind the trim. Just wiggle and pull hard. The little nails they used dont really hold well and it should come right out.

Honestly, take the trim off and start from scratch. You can still get all trim you have from Anderson McQuaid in Cambridge, MA (you said you were New England right?) Here's a room we redid with blue board, fresh plaster, and brand new trim from Anderson McQuaid that matches our 1922 original trim exactly.

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Old 11-20-2012, 05:11 PM   #22
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Thanks for the tip Squisher. I've actually heard of that place. I did plan on taking the trim off but someone said there might be a problem with the drywall being flush with the door jamb and I would have to use a jamb extension. Do you see any reason that there would be a problem with the drywall being even with the door jamb? They are going to bring the wall out by nailing some lath onto the studs. Also would you let the guy hanging the sheet rock do the insulation or hire an insulation contractor. I'm going to use rockwool batting. I don't want to install the insulation myself since I'm not good at cutting and b/c of the dimensions of the rockwool and the height of my ceiling (over 8'2"), there will be alot of cutting.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:13 PM   #23
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Instead of using lathe, either rip down a 2x6 for use to fur out, or get the proper drywall shims that come in 86" lengths.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:28 PM   #24
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Thanks for the tip Squisher. I've actually heard of that place. I did plan on taking the trim off but someone said there might be a problem with the drywall being flush with the door jamb and I would have to use a jamb extension. Do you see any reason that there would be a problem with the drywall being even with the door jamb? They are going to bring the wall out by nailing some lath onto the studs. Also would you let the guy hanging the sheet rock do the insulation or hire an insulation contractor. I'm going to use rockwool batting. I don't want to install the insulation myself since I'm not good at cutting and b/c of the dimensions of the rockwool and the height of my ceiling (over 8'2"), there will be alot of cutting.
You should be fine with 1/2" blue board with a 1/8" coat of plaster over it. Mine came out perfectly flush.

As for insulation, definitely DIY. It's almost too easy not to. Here's an example of insulation I did myself.

Before:



After:



Any reason you want to use rockwool and not regular batts? I did rockwool around my bathroom for sound, but other than that I don't think it's really needed....
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:39 PM   #25
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I'm using it b/c it's better than fiberglass and b/c of the sound dampening. I live in the city and it tends to be a bit noisy. As is said in my earlier post, don't want to do it myself b/c there's way too many cuts. Rock wool batts are only 47" high and my ceiling are over 8 feet.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:43 PM   #26
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Have you considered open cell spray foam? Probably cheaper, faster, and better than the rockwool batts and it doesn't get much more soundproof than that. Where are you located? I can recommend a few installers for you.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:45 PM   #27
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I've been told that the spray foam is much more expensive. I live in little Rhody.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:52 PM   #28
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Try these guys:

http://www.national-lumber.com/pro-insulators.htm

They did mine, not sure if they serve Rhode Island. They were the cheapest quote by 40% and i couldn't be more happy with the job.
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Old 11-20-2012, 06:55 PM   #29
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Thanks Squished. Just curious, what is the R value per inch of the open cell? I can get R15 in 3 1/2 inches of depth which is over 4 per inch.
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:15 PM   #30
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Same 15. You're getting air sealing and vapor barrier as well though.

Closed cell would give you a value of 21.

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