Taping Drywall

kupalino · 02-09-2010, 11:17 AM

I'm about to finish drywalling my basement and going into taping it soon. I'd like to know the following:

1. Is there a tape/mud combo that I should use? I read somewhere that tape with adhesive should only be used on certain kinds of mud. What do most people use?

2. Is there a sequence in which one to tape first? Such as, vertical seams, horizontal seams, inside, then outside corners.

Any taping tips would be appreciated.

Thanks.

TANC · 02-09-2010, 03:16 PM

I am not a drywall professional by any means, but have done plenty of work with and without texture. I always use mesh adhesive tape, green mud for first coat, blue for second and third (maybe 4th and 5th if you are new to this. As far as taping I always work my way from the top down. I also fell in love with rounded plastic corners, they are so easy to do. . . .

Bob Mariani · 02-09-2010, 03:57 PM

use paper tape for new drywall work. mesh is used for repairs.
Use durabond 90 compound for the first coat.
Use premixed for the next two coats. This is not good for first coat. the mix it yourself type is much stronger.

oldrivers · 02-09-2010, 09:04 PM

Quote:

2. Is there a sequence in which one to tape first? Such as, vertical seams, horizontal seams, inside, then outside corners.

Any taping tips would be appreciated.

Thanks.

--------------------------------

2- not critical for a do it yourselfer . those concerns are adressed more for a professional thats trying to maximize profits.

kupalino · 02-10-2010, 11:23 AM

Thanks for the replies

bjbatlanta · 02-10-2010, 05:00 PM

Hate to disagree, Bob, but durabond is overkill on new work using paper tape (especially for a large DIY job). Definitely has to be used for the first coat with mesh tape. No harm if the OP wants to use it, though.
Paper tape on anything other than small repairs. Regular ready-mix (green lid as some refer to it) is fine for all coats. Tape "butt joints" (where the 4' edges come together), "flats" (tapered edge joints), then angles. Install corner bead.
Next coats: run butt joints, flats, corner bead, angles (one side at a time).
Angles: I usually start with the "ceiling angles" (just my method). Run one side of an angle on the ceiling side. The next wall you run the "wall" side, and keep alternating to finish the room . That way you're not pulling through wet mud. Pull the wall angle opposite from the ceiling angle you've run. Again not pulling through the other wet angle.
Mud straight from the bucket is not "your friend". It needs to be thinned with water, a cup or more/5gal. to get a good consistency to "pull". You'll need a 1/2" drill with a "paddle" to mix or an old fashioned "potato masher" hand mixer (available at HD or Lowes.
Two or three thin coats over your tape coat (one coat per side for the inside corners) and bead will do better than trying to cover with heavier coats. Take your time. Sand lightly between coats if there are imperfections that justify....

Bob Mariani · 02-10-2010, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bjbatlanta

Hate to disagree, Bob, but durabond is overkill on new work using paper tape (especially for a large DIY job). Definitely has to be used for the first coat with mesh tape. No harm if the OP wants to use it, though.
Paper tape on anything other than small repairs. Regular ready-mix (green lid as some refer to it) is fine for all coats. Tape "butt joints" (where the 4' edges come together), "flats" (tapered edge joints), then angles. Install corner bead.
Next coats: run butt joints, flats, corner bead, angles (one side at a time).
Angles: I usually start with the "ceiling angles" (just my method). Run one side of an angle on the ceiling side. The next wall you run the "wall" side, and keep alternating to finish the room . That way you're not pulling through wet mud. Pull the wall angle opposite from the ceiling angle you've run. Again not pulling through the other wet angle.
Mud straight from the bucket is not "your friend". It needs to be thinned with water, a cup or more/5gal. to get a good consistency to "pull". You'll need a 1/2" drill with a "paddle" to mix or an old fashioned "potato masher" hand mixer (available at HD or Lowes.
Two or three thin coats over your tape coat (one coat per side for the inside corners) and bead will do better than trying to cover with heavier coats. Take your time. Sand lightly between coats if there are imperfections that justify....

And you should not!

ARI001 · 02-11-2010, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kupalino

I'm about to finish drywalling my basement and going into taping it soon. I'd like to know the following:

1. Is there a tape/mud combo that I should use? I read somewhere that tape with adhesive should only be used on certain kinds of mud. What do most people use?

For a DIY I would recommend paper tape and pre-mixed heavyweight joint compound (green lid) for the tape and first coat. Light weight joint compound (blue lid) for successive coats. If you are comfortable mixing your own mud and proficient with your taping and finishing techniques use durabond 90 minute for the tape and first coat. I still use light weight for successive coats. If you use the mesh tape or vinyl tape then you will need to use durobond for at least the tape job.

Honestly most new construction jobs are done with pre-mixed mud on job-sites for a variety of reasons probably most notably lack of clean water to mix up the mud. If you use pre-mixed avoid the temptation to dilute it with water for easier application, this will weaken the mix. It is called pre-mixed for a reason. You can add products such as No Pock Pro by Warner or Super-Bond by Straight Flex to reduce pocking and increase bonding power. Mix the mud well using 1/2" mixing drill before applying.

2. Is there a sequence in which one to tape first? Such as, vertical seams, horizontal seams, inside, then outside corners.

Any taping tips would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Taping will take some time to get down. To much mud or not enough mud will both cause problems. In my opinion this is the most important part of the finishing process. A bad taping job will result in problems during the finishing process. I use a 4" knife for corners and a 5" knife for tapered edge and butted seams but you can use either or for all. Apply 1/8" to 3/16" layer of joint compound along the center of the seam. Embed the tape and starting from the center pull towards the ends. I use the following sequence: tapered edge/butt joints/ inside corners. First coat your outside corners during this phase.

Next apply the "filler" coat. Do this after you have finished the inside corners. Do the tapered edges then the butt joints. I use a 10" knife or trowel for this coat. The compound should be about 1/8" thick on the wall and make sure to feather the edges. Also make sure to spread your butt joints out. Don't worry about making the joints look smooth during this coat. This is primarily a filler coat.

Next knock down any ridges using your knife. You may sand if necessary. Now you are ready to apply the top coat. Apply the compound with a slightly wider knife. Feather the edges tight then pull the center tightly. This should leave you ready to sand at a level 4 finish.

When you sand make sure to where a mask. Use a poll sander on the walls and ceilings with 120 grit paper. Use a sponge in the corners and to touch any wall areas necessary. Make sure you don't burn down to the tape and try to avoid scuffing the paper face of the drywall.

Carl beanboy · 03-02-2010, 10:18 PM

when using dura bond for very first coat ,do you have to use tape at all?

chrisn · 03-03-2010, 04:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl beanboy

when using dura bond for very first coat ,do you have to use tape at all?

Yes

bjbatlanta · 03-03-2010, 08:09 AM

Absolutely!

Willie T · 03-03-2010, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carl beanboy

when using dura bond for very first coat ,do you have to use tape at all?

YES! Tape is not to just fill gaps, it is to span the gap with a surface that will not crack like unbacked mud will.