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Old 12-29-2010, 10:47 AM   #1
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tape / mudding over flat surfaces


I have a spot where two pieces of drywall meet that are not the recessed edges... in the past when I did this I mudded it, paper taped over it, then did the standard mudding but it always felt raised where the center was... any tips for this? or do I just need just increase the area I feather it out? right now I am going out about 8-12 inches from center... or am I just putting it on to thick? I've been trying to stay as thin as possible with my coats
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Old 12-29-2010, 10:53 AM   #2
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Make sure there is about a 1/4" between the sheets, then bevel the edges of the sheets at 45 Deg about a 1/4" to 3/8" deep.

Fill the joint as you would with a tapered connection, then tape (bead edge in) and run the 3-4" knife over the joint to squeeze out excess and allow to set. The tape will be drawn into the joint as the compound drys.

Then feather in as usual, this will result in a joint about 20" wide when finished.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:38 PM   #3
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Make sure there is about a 1/4" between the sheets, then bevel the edges of the sheets at 45 Deg about a 1/4" to 3/8" deep.

Fill the joint as you would with a tapered connection, then tape (bead edge in) and run the 3-4" knife over the joint to squeeze out excess and allow to set. The tape will be drawn into the joint as the compound drys.

Then feather in as usual, this will result in a joint about 20" wide when finished.
when you say bevel, you mean take a knife and cut it down at an angel? or some other method to doing this? Sorry if it sounds like a stupid question, just want to make sure I do the right thing
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:29 PM   #4
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tape / mudding over flat surfaces


I've never seen drywallers cut a bevel on butted joints. But I guess it might help.Make sure to fill the cut totally with mud or the tape will show a bubble there.

Usually they just bed with 6" knife and skim out with 8" and then lastly a 12". A butted joint is approx 24 " total.
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:55 PM   #5
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when you say bevel, you mean take a knife and cut it down at an angel? or some other method to doing this? Sorry if it sounds like a stupid question, just want to make sure I do the right thing
Yes a very sharp one.

I was shown this method by a pro, and it works very nicely. I do the same thing on wall to ceiling and corner joints, and it works nicely.
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:57 PM   #6
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The only time I bevel drywall is on an outside corner less than 90 degrees to make the edges meet properly. Any time you remove part of the "core" of the board, you weaken it, especially if you're taking 3/8" off of a piece of 1/2" drywall. If you end up with the stud you break the joint on "moving" with annual heat/cooling seasons, there's not much left to hold the joint and keep it from breaking loose. And it would be awfully time consuming to do all of the butt joints and inside corners on a job of any size. Tape the joint as usual, bed with a 10" knife on either side of the joint, skim with a 12" knife. Use just enough mud to cover the tape. The "hump" you get is from piling too much on the center of the tape. Even if you can see the tape through the mud when it's wet, you're ok. You won't see it once the mud is dry. Sand the middle of the tape carefully so as to not sand through to the tape.
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Old 12-30-2010, 01:46 PM   #7
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I didn't say all butt joints, I said only butt joints that don't have the taper. You can do it the way you do it and I will do it the way I was taught.
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:19 PM   #8
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I didn't say all butt joints, I said only butt joints that don't have the taper. You can do it the way you do it and I will do it the way I was taught.
That's the thing, by definition, butt joints don't have the taper. They are the flat ends of the drywall "butted" together. The tapered edges run the length of the drywall.

No need to get defensive. It's just that beveling the butt edges of drywall is not used on most jobs. In fact in 40+ years of working in the painting and allied trades (which includes drywall finishing) I have NEVER seen any beveling of butt joints on ANY job, commercial or residential.

What happens when you try beveling the edges and run into the screws or nails? Which usually lie close together on a butt joint in order to catch the stud from both sides?
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:22 PM   #9
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The only joints that are considered "butt" joints are the non-tapered joints. I was merely speaking from a professional standpoint. I have never seen a pro bevel a 4' butt joint or inside corners. I didn't say it was necessarily wrong, just sounds like asking for problems on down the road IN MY OPINION. You have every right to do it the way you were taught.....
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:50 PM   #10
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Not being defensive, nor am I a proffessional, far from it, I have done my share of dry-wall finishing, always for myself, and it has always turned out very well with only minimal sanding as required between coats.

The bevel I refer to at 1/4" is to remove any rough paper edges, is there a better way to do this?, so the tape will not protrude.?

What do you do with a sheet end that is damaged, like so many of them are, just cut off square and make a shorter sheet?
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Old 12-30-2010, 03:58 PM   #11
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Exactly. If I'm just getting enough board for a small job, I get it at HD and pick it up/haul myself. I make sure there's no damage to begin with . On a large basement or whole house where I'd have the board delivered, I get a few longer lengths (say 12' instead of 10') to allow for a damaged sheet or two. Most board has to have a few inches (or even a foot or more) cutoff anyway. For example a wall that's 8'-3", I'd get two 9' sheets to cover it if I ordered from the supply house. I'd get 10' rock if I got the board at HD.
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