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Old 01-26-2013, 08:18 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by idlewatcher View Post
Hi all, you guys saved my rear with floor tile for my dining room last year so now I've finished that and am now in the process of redoing our very tiny bathroom!

It's an older home (60's) and have what appears to be concrete backerboard with some sort of metal lath/mesh embedded. I personally have never seen this stuff before. Seems everything I bring into HD or Lowe's, there answer is always "man, no one even makes this stuff anymore"

Here is what I'm busy tearing out which will be replaced with Greenboard and a vapor barrier behind the Greenboard which will attach to the studs and framing.

For areas which aren't in direct contact with water, is Greenboard still a requirement or would regular 1/2" or 5/8" sheetrock work? Seems like most agree that GB is ideal even if water isn't going to be in contact.

Also, I've obviously wasted some time pulling off some of the tile, but the reasoning behind that is that I needed to get to the studs to tear out the sheetrock and the backerboard in chunks and I have to be careful b/c I have a gas heater as you can see in the frame. So my question here is do I still need some sort of concrete backerboard ontop of the GB or could I tile directly on the GB?

I would appreciate any help and guidance you guys and gals could provide a rookie! Thanks!
That looks like an old lath/cement job. Hand troweled mortar over metal lath. Tore some of those out at a local university several years ago when the dorms were being remodeled. Incredible workmanship. Too bad it had to go.

Personaly, I would put 1/2" cement board on the bottom and 1/2" green board on the top. tile over the cement board and top cap it at the drywall joint. Have two bathrooms in my house done that way an doth have held up fine for 10 years now


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Old 01-26-2013, 09:42 AM   #17
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read this on green board and vapour barrier!

and shark bites are awesome! i show up to houses with popped lines and just push them on for a quick fix
and for doing some reno work with no shut offs they do wonders
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:10 AM   #18
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Unless you plan on replacing that floor tile you really should have laid down for cardboard to prevent damage.

Real wood bead board would also be a nise look right over the drywall.
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Old 01-26-2013, 09:44 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by danpik View Post
Personaly, I would put 1/2" cement board on the bottom and 1/2" green board on the top. tile over the cement board and top cap it at the drywall joint.
I was hoping not to have to GB to top section of the sheetrock. Right now it sits at 4' from the floor to where the metal lath/cementboard is which is a perfect fit for new GB Danpik, what is the reasoning behind wanting cementboard on the bottom section, considering no water will be hitting it directly?

Joe, I am replacing the floor as well - just forgot to add that information in in the OP. Already bought the tile but I wanted to get the walls drywalled (and possibly the shower) so that I could just tear everything out in one swoop instead of having anxiety about whether or not I'd screw up the new floor.


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