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-   -   Slotted drywall knife (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/slotted-drywall-knife-126111/)

papageek 12-09-2011 04:23 PM

Slotted drywall knife
 
Is there such a thing? Let me explain what I want it for . . . doing the vertical seams where two horizontal drywall sections butt against each other. You apply tape, then a first coat of drywall compound that is thick enough to cover the tape, but not too thick so it will sand smooth.

The “not too thick” is what I’m looking for.

|________-----------------________|

If the edge of the knife had that shape, and the notch was the proper depth, you could make a nice even run along both sides of the tape and leave a nice thin coat of mud that would cover the tape properly.

So, is there such a thing?

oh'mike 12-09-2011 08:58 PM

Never seen one---Many tapers will bend the blade just a bit --that lays the mud a little thicker in the center--and tapered to nothing at the edge.

coupe 12-09-2011 09:10 PM

re:Slotted drywall knife
 
deleted for wrong font usage

DannyT 12-09-2011 11:11 PM

to the original poster: I have never seen a drywall knife like you suggest but with a grinder and a file I am sure you could make your own.

papageek 12-12-2011 08:35 AM

Thanks for the feedback. It was what I expected. Since they don't make one, I'll do what Danny said and make my own.

casper129 12-12-2011 12:16 PM

papageek - There is a knife just like that called the "Perfect Pass" that is sold at Menards. (Maybe other places too...) I am no drywalling pro, actually, I pretty much suck at it.. but I bought the perfect pass for doing my basement's butt joints, and it has worked wonders for me. Doesn't work like it says on the package (Get it done in two passes with no sanding!!) but it does help out a lot.

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-ha...876-c-8951.htm

papageek 12-13-2011 04:09 PM

Thanks casper, that is exactly the tool I was looking for. I just finished this job the hard way, but will order one for the next time I tackle a drywall project

mikegp 12-16-2011 10:45 AM

That looks interesting. You could make that pretty easily I would imagine. Wonder if it's worth it since the first coat is the easiest.

papageek 12-16-2011 11:00 AM

First coat is indeed easiest, but getting that coating to be the same thickness from top to bottom is not! And you don't want the seam to be wavey. I'm going to buy one on-line because they don't sell them yet in the Maryland area.

mikegp 12-16-2011 11:04 AM

The more I think about it, I'd like to give that a shot on my basement. Anyone know where to order one? A quick internet search came up with nothing but a youtube video.

mikegp 12-16-2011 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papageek (Post 795303)
First coat is indeed easiest, but getting that coating to be the same thickness from top to bottom is not! And you don't want the seam to be wavey. I'm going to buy one on-line because they don't sell them yet in the Maryland area.

Let me know what you find. I just emailed epiphany. I'll post up if they respond.

Bud Cline 12-16-2011 01:04 PM

You guys are wasting your time and money on that tool. It isn't going to be the magic wand you imagine it is going to be. Using that tool will create more problems you wouldn't otherwise have to deal with. Just fill and feather the same way it has been done for the last seventy years.

papageek 12-16-2011 01:25 PM

Mike,
I just finished my basement. Here are a couple things I did as a non-pro.

I installed the drywall horizontal, not vertical. Only two walls needed butt to butt seams and I staggered them.

I used green board for the bottom row just in case of any water issues.

A trick my daddy taught me, another non-pro, is to make the butt joins between studs. I install the first piece of drywall, and then cut a strip of ½ inch PT plywood about 52 inches by 4 inches. I use adhesive to place it halfway behind the first sheet. This gives me two full inches in which to place the screws, not ¾ of an inch at the very edge if my stud is perfectly straight, less is some places if it is not! I use the extra 4 inches of the 52 length to place a screw or two in the adjoining piece of drywall and use adhesive again to install the second sheet that is butting up to it. This makes a nice butt joint because you don’t crack the ends by screwing in too close to the edge. Then comes the vertical butt joint that we are all talking about on this thread.

I’m sure the pro’s who have done this for years will say this is overkill, but for me this works perfect every time.

casper129 12-16-2011 01:53 PM

Bud Cline - Maybe for someone that has been doing it for years this tool would seem like a waste of time.. but for a DIY'er that doesn't do it for a living, this tool is perfect. It cut my butt jointing time almost in half compared to the two joints that I did without the tool. Some of you 'pros' need to have an open mind once in a while, and realize that there are going to be tools invented that are going to make things easier for the every day person. It's called change, and just like at my job, you have to live with it, weather you agree with it or not.

Bud Cline 12-16-2011 02:07 PM

Quote:

Bud Cline - Maybe for someone that has been doing it for years this tool would seem like a waste of time.. but for a DIY'er that doesn't do it for a living, this tool is perfect. It cut my butt jointing time almost in half compared to the two joints that I did without the tool. Some of you 'pros' need to have an open mind once in a while, and realize that there are going to be tools invented that are going to make things easier for the every day person. It's called change, and just like at my job, you have to live with it, weather you agree with it or not.
Thank you I didn't know that! Your information is very helpful to me. I appreciate your being here on a regular basis and being willing to offer your advice free of charge whether you really know anything or not. Your opinion is most welcome.


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