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Old 10-29-2012, 03:56 PM   #1
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Sheet rock joining tape

I expected joining tape to be tacky. What am I missing?

There is 2

Sheet rock joining tape-image-2837981916.jpg

sides of a square cut out in a closet of the new house. The center is on a stud so I'm not concerned with stability and the wall is bare sheet rock. I thought I could just tape over the cuts because they are only about the width of a skill saw. When I got home the cloth tape is not tacky, I'm sure this comes as no surprise to everyone here, but what's the deal? Thanks



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Old 10-29-2012, 04:12 PM   #2
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#1 if you want that repair to work out your going to first get rid of all those ridges and loose paper.
Drywall paper tape is never stucky, you have to use a 4" wide drywall knife to apply some drywall compoud to the area to be repaired first. Apply the tape and bed it in with the knive held at a steep angle, then go back and apply another thin layer of compound.
The key is thin layers. There is no need to make it perfect on the first or second coat, you just do not want it think and no blobs left on the wall.
No need to sand between first and second coats, just use the blade to knock off the high spots and apply the next coat.
You only lightly sand the last coat.
For the second and third coat you need a 6" wide knife.


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Old 10-29-2012, 04:54 PM   #3
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There is an adhesive mesh type tape. Its a bit easier to apply for 1st timer, but its thicker than paper and needs more mud over it. Not more at one time but more layers. Each time with a wider knife. I usually go up in increments from 3" all the way to 12" knife cause I am terrible at mudding. Mostly cause I try to make each coat perfectly smooth and over work it. Luckily it sands off easy. Use open mesh "sandpaper" made for purpose. Final coats after sanding can be smoothed with damp sponge with no pressure. Just make each layer wider and thinner at edges.
"Cloth tape?" New one on me.You mean paper?
Gap at top is wider than I'd try to tape, but then I'm no good at it. Luckily (again) drywall, tape and mud are cheap. When I screw it up I rip it out and start over.
I been spoiled by seeing real pros make perfect joints in seconds, with no effort it seems. Guy i try to hire is way busy, he's made joints for me that he then painted with glossy, can't find the seams at all, and I hung the sheetrock.

Joe always things we're as handy as he is, smear a relatively thick bed of mud over joints, just enough to hold tape, use wet knife to push tape into mud against drywall, "steep angle" handle close to wall, pull knife not push, try not to tear tape, scrape off really big ridges of mud that are out beyond tape, let it dry. Put another layer of mud over it. Let that dry, you can sand off ridges that prevent you from feathering out edges of mud.

That's a closet? use a dim bulb, put some narrow shelves over it, looks like good place for shoe rack. Closets are where we had apprentices install, cope and miter base and shoe, inside door trim. Mebbee mudders start there too. You picked good place.
Measure twice, cut once.
Look at the nail, not the hammer. Watch the fence, not the blade.
If you hook your thumb over your belt you won't hit it with the hammer or leave it layin on the saw table.

Last edited by notmrjohn; 10-29-2012 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:03 PM   #4
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I don't like using the mesh tape much and it was originally intended for cracks and things and not seams. The paper tape is better IMO.

As suggested work in layers. But what got skipped is waiting between passes for the compound to dry.

Once you have cleaned up the drywall as suggested goop on a generous layer of mud and as instructed and work it into the seams press the paper tape into it smoothing off the excess as you go. I actually like working with a 6" knive for taping. In any event, that is all you want to accomplish with your first pass. Do remember the more excess you leave the more you are going to have to sand off.

After that embedment pass dries you can coat over the top of the tape. Again, I find a wider knife helpful. What you don't want to do is soggy up your tape so it puckers or starts disintegrating on you.

That gap on top is pretty wide. If you have more drywall scrap you might try cutting another piece and getting a bit tighter fit. Also just to make sure the camera is playing tricks with me, that patch is flush with the rest of the wall right? It almost looks like I am seeing the entire left edge.

Last edited by user1007; 10-29-2012 at 05:08 PM.
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Old 10-29-2012, 05:09 PM   #5
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Moved to Drywall and Plaster forum.
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Old 10-29-2012, 06:57 PM   #6
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[quote=PhishPhix;1040447]I expected joining tape to be tacky. What am I missing?

an inch of drywall!

mesh tape is sticky. paper is not. apply mud first then stick the paper to the mud.
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:21 PM   #7
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That is an awful large crack on top. Joint compound is going to crack. To fill a crack that big you have two choices 1 recut the patch 2 use setting type mud or "hot mud" it's harder to use but has a lot more strength. It comes in bags, make sure you get the white bag, and for first time I would use 90 minute. It comes as a powder and you mix it with water.Rather that drying this mud sets up by chemical reaction, 90 minutes means 90 minutes after you mix it, it starts to set up, unless you mix it with warm water then it will set faster. And once it starts to set you can't add water to to thin it once it starts to set if your not done throw it out and mix a new batch. Make sure to clean your tools between batches, because if new comes in contact with old it will start the reaction. Then follow the directions above for the first 2 coats then use regular mud for the last coat. Sounds like you already have the paper tape go ahead and use it, just be sure to bed it while the mud is wet. Good luck
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Old 10-29-2012, 07:40 PM   #8
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Thanks all for the help. I'll give it a go and post the results. Yes, I would agree, I am missing about an inch on the top


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