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Old 06-29-2010, 06:39 PM   #16
Join Date: Jun 2010
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strapping is generally 5/8" or 3/4" wood pieces 3" or 4 inches wide. Basically you just want some blocking to screw your drywall into. You could use 2x4s if you want.

My theory on the v joints is talking about butt joints (not drywall with tapered edges as this groove is done for you). Essentially you cut both offending butting pieces at a 45% angle forming what i call a "v" joint (same theory as concrete pathcing make the hole bigger before you you patch.) and this will make the bond and the seam much easier to manage. As always finish the joint off with a large putty knife to feather the joint out so nobody can feel or see it. I use durabond 90 for all my seams as it dries within the hour and it is unlikely to crack. Then I finish off with normal compund as this is something i can sand to perfection)

Hope that helps Jim


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Old 06-29-2010, 10:23 PM   #17
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Painting over mold tends to reck paint. The dentist mirror is my little cheap solution to seeing what is going on without tearing up the place. You don't need much of a hole (dont drill it, pipes and yes behind the shower unit) to see whats going on in behind

If you typically get wet floors try a bath mat.

If you want to test something and see what comes out of it cut out only the damaged section durabond it smooth but leave the gap at the damaged area (to recieve caulk). I would still recaulk the tub the surround,where the tub meets the wall and @ the base of the wall closest to that side of the tub (as it is most likely to get wet) and call it a day once you refinish the wall. If it comes back then you know you have an issue. Get that gap in between the tub and the wall and caulk it. This will give you at least some sort of water barrier between the tub and the adjacent wall. Monitor the situation and if it comes back you know you have to do something more. If this is already a repeat I'd be curious about how much damage is there.

There are also corner guards that go between the tub and the wall to prevent water from rolling off the side of the tub (maax makes some nice ones). You may also want to invest in a curved shower rod and a curtain with magnets on the bottom of the shower curtain to ensure that the water indeed stays inside the tub. I tipped mine in a bit so that the curtain curls close to the faucet (prevents water from getting out on the tub edge and is the least ugly option)

Again my concern goes to what we cant see and I condone shortcuts.

Just a thought
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:20 PM   #18
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Hey all.

It's been an interestingly busy couple of months with life and family and work. I wanted to pop back in and say a big THANKS! to everyone who tool the time to share their wisdom with me.

As it turns out, the missus and I decided to bite the bullet and just reno both the bathroom and ensuite as they were due for an overhaul anyways.

Again, thanks for the advice, I appreciate it!

Cheers. :-)
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Old 09-23-2010, 03:46 PM   #19
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Michigan
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Wet drywall is never a good thing unless you're mold. I've had to fight the same issue in my bathroom at my new house. Just last weekend I got fed up and tore into it to find mold. After a quick visit to the hardware store for "no" help I came here to get advice. Next stop is tearing out all of the drywall and installing green-board. Wish me luck!


Last edited by Indy DIY; 09-23-2010 at 03:48 PM.
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drywall , repair , wet

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