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-   -   Rookie questions - drywall paper rips (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/rookie-questions-drywall-paper-rips-78584/)

Eusibius2 08-12-2010 05:18 PM

Rookie questions - drywall paper rips
 
Ok - so here's my situation and question:

Q: Why is it that you don't want to rip / tear / scratch the paper in drywall? What's the deal?

Q: Same question, but when screwing drywall into a stud, why only dimple the drywall with the screw? What's wrong if the screw goes too far and rips the paper?

Here's the situation and the reason I'm asking:
We bought a house last year and the ceiling on the entire first floor has a nasty texture to it. I was fine with simply painting over it and calling it done, but my wife wanted to scrape it ALL off to have a flat ceiling. The first room (guest bedroom) she did, the texture was near impossible to get off and she gouged the heck out of the ceiling. Without any second thought, when she was done, she began using spackle to fill in the holes, primed it, then painted it. By the time I could say anything, it was WAAAAaay to late.

Now she's doing our living room, which is around 400 square feet. She's gotten much better at not gouging the ceiling, but there is an area about 10' x 6' that won't budge (I'm not really sure about the dimension). We both kind of agree that it might be easiest / cleanest to cut out that section and replace it with new drywall.

I'm handy enough to know how to replace the drywall in the ceiling (ok, I'm probably being way to naive about this), but don't know the specifics. I'm guessing the mudd / tape will be the worst aspect of the whole thing.

But I gotta ask at this point - what's the deal with not ripping the paper on drywall (see questions above)? The original guest bedroom with spackled, primed, and painted ceiling doesn't look all that bad. It's not pristine, but we're happy with it. I would hope that our living room turns out much better, though...

Thanks in advance for all your advice!

12penny 08-13-2010 09:06 AM

Eusibius2....dont scratch, tear or rip the paper because then you have to fix it.

Dont go thru the paper with the screw because it it doesnt hold as well.

epson 08-13-2010 09:41 AM

Ok hereís the deal:

1) If your wife used a putty knife to remove the ceiling texture she or you should have rounded the corners off the putty knife to lessen the gouging in the drywall.

2) You could have also used a spray bottle with water to wet the texture for easier removal.

3) You could have also used a tile scraper which is attached to a pole and used that to remove to texture which is a lot easier on your shoulders.

4) After you removed your texture you should roll on a primer sealer onto the damaged areas of torn drywall paper and allow to dry.

5) When the primer is dry you skim coat the area(s) with drywall compound or the damage will show through all new applications of paint.

6) Sand the drywall repairs with 100 grit drywall sandpaper until the repairs are smooth.

7) Prime the repairs and allow the primer to dry. Now you can apply your finish coat of paint.

Eusibius2 08-13-2010 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by epson (Post 485098)
Ok hereís the deal:

1) If your wife used a putty knife to remove the ceiling texture she or you should have rounded the corners off the putty knife to lessen the gouging in the drywall.

2) You could have also used a spray bottle with water to wet the texture for easier removal.

3) You could have also used a tile scraper which is attached to a pole and used that to remove to texture which is a lot easier on your shoulders.

4) After you removed your texture you should roll on a primer sealer onto the damaged areas of torn drywall paper and allow to dry.

5) When the primer is dry you skim coat the area(s) with drywall compound or the damage will show through all new applications of paint.

6) Sand the drywall repairs with 100 grit drywall sandpaper until the repairs are smooth.

7) Prime the repairs and allow the primer to dry. Now you can apply your finish coat of paint.

#1 - that's a good idea, will try that going forward..
#2 #3 #4 - did all of those, mostly with no luck.

#5 Ah ha! here's the good point not thought of - yes, some drywall compound... that would work better than spackle! Genius!!

and then #6 & #7 will naturally get done.

So tearing the paper of drywall is nothing more than just making a repair? And if a screw goes in too deep, then it might not hold as well? I can deal with the repairs (although tedious), but drywall not holding on the ceiling might be a problem.

Thanks for the help!

epson 08-13-2010 10:05 AM

Hey no problem we are all here to give advice and a helping hand. I think you have the jest of things now and will be on your way to a beautiful finish. :thumbsup:

Eusibius2 08-13-2010 10:44 AM

Thanks much...

I guess now all we have to do is decide if we want to punish our selves even more by trying to get the final bit of texture off (which is near impossible) or to just tear down that section. There is a light fixture in the middle of this section, but we would love to have an excuse to replace that ugly thing.

Any suggestions?

12penny 08-13-2010 10:53 AM

Try sanding some of it by hand with a low grit paper. Wear a mask and sand enough to take the paint off. Water might get in a little easier.

Replace is the only other thing I can think of.

Suppose you could power sand, but depending on the age of the home it could have some asbestos in it.

Eusibius2 08-13-2010 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 12penny (Post 485146)
Try sanding some of it by hand with a low grit paper. Wear a mask and sand enough to take the paint off. Water might get in a little easier.

Replace is the only other thing I can think of.

Suppose you could power sand, but depending on the age of the home it could have some asbestos in it.

We've tried all of this, and it's proving to be really tough. Sanding with 60 grit above your head is too tiring after about 30 minutes. Water didn't help much. We did use my orbital sander (masks and goggles!) and it created a huge, and expected, mess. We were like Casper the ghost!!! The home is nearly 50 years old. I didn't think about asbestos, but I certainly am concerned about the amount of lead in the old paint...

12penny 08-13-2010 11:17 AM

Rip and tear.

Replace with new.

epson 08-13-2010 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eusibius2 (Post 485138)
Thanks much...

I guess now all we have to do is decide if we want to punish our selves even more by trying to get the final bit of texture off (which is near impossible) or to just tear down that section. There is a light fixture in the middle of this section, but we would love to have an excuse to replace that ugly thing.

Any suggestions?

Well if itís that hard to remove then cut the section out and find the ceiling joist so you can remove the drywall up to that point and attach new sheet with drywall screws tape, apply drywall compound, sand, prime, paint and call it a day. That way you have your excuse to replace the light fixture or even relocate a new one.

unlvrebel 08-13-2010 12:20 PM

Hang 1/4 or 3/8 over the entire ceiling, tape and mud. All that scraping is WAY too much work.

Eusibius2 08-13-2010 12:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unlvrebel (Post 485170)
Hang 1/4 or 3/8 over the entire ceiling, tape and mud. All that scraping is WAY too much work.

Would have been great advise before this was started. Out of 400+ sq feet, we only have about 50 or so left. LOL

LivingCheap 08-13-2010 12:31 PM

I've put up drywall a few times, and the best advice I have is to pay close attention when cutting to put in smoke detectors, light fixtures, etc. Remember to use common sense to make sure you are cutting the holes in the correct places. Two heads are better than one!

bjbatlanta 08-14-2010 09:46 PM

The ceilings have likely been painted so spraying with water is ineffective. Renting a drywall sander such as a Porter-Cable with a vacuum is a possibility to remove the remaining texture (most HD's that have tool rentals have them). The easiest solution is often the additional layer of drywall. As you said though, it's kind ofn late now.2
Once you puncture the face paper of the drywall with a screw, you have taken away the structural integrity of the fastener. The core of the board relies on the paper facing for holding power.


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