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Old 07-04-2010, 04:04 PM   #16
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Repairing cracks from settling


is "+3" an emulsifier like dishwashing soap? Dawn liquid soap definitely loosens up the pre-mix mud but i wasn't sure if it's affect the "setting compound" in this mud.

i've seen dish washing soap (dawn or ivory) added to mud when doing hand texture jobs. and used it myself. boy, that stuff is like grease lightening. or a hockey puck on ice. it has what i'd guess is called great "flowability" when put into motion.

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Old 07-04-2010, 07:49 PM   #17
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Repairing cracks from settling


+3 is lightweight joint compound. You could substitute "+3" for what ever joint compound you are using (i think you had green top in your picture). I have never tried soap in mud (although im not the least bit opposed to it, i just havent had a job big enough to try it yet)

Adding regular joint compound to your "hot mud" (aka 20 minute) will make the hot mud MUCH more workable & give you more time to work with it. I would mix the mud at about 60% joint compound to 40% hot mud(ish). This will give you a half hour or more to work with your pan before it gets too hard to work with.

If you aren't in a big hurry to make the mud set then you really dont need to use hot mud. I use hot mud so i can get 2 or 3 coats & texture on in one day (i only do small jobs so far in my drywall career). If i am working in my own house then i can do a coat one day & the next coat the next day etc... at my leasure until it's done, in my own house i probably wouldnt use hot mud, unless i was in a big hurry.

Normal joint compound (in my area +3 is popular) is much easier to work with & does a fine job. Just my .02

Last edited by Axecutioner-B; 07-04-2010 at 08:57 PM.
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Old 07-05-2010, 04:49 AM   #18
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Repairing cracks from settling


Axecutioner-B -
Thanks.
on this third set of jobs i need to sand the dried mud. there is so much of it we bought a sander w/ a little vacuum (ryobi for $30). can someone recommend another that has a better vacuum for small particulate dust?
after sanding, i'll put another one to two coats of mud on and will try adding a little of the "lightweight all-purpose joint compound."
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:35 PM   #19
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Repairing cracks from settling


Ridgid makes a compact shop vac for contractors. It is a 4 gallon capacity, 5 horse motor, and you can get bags for it. It's what I use almost exclusively. The bag catches 90 percent of the dust and the filter gets the rest. You don't have to clean the filter nearly as often. When you notice you're not getting enough suction (more dust not being sucked up) just change the bag.
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Old 07-07-2010, 04:37 PM   #20
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Ridgid makes a compact shop vac for contractors. It is a 4 gallon capacity, 5 horse motor, and you can get bags for it. It's what I use almost exclusively. The bag catches 90 percent of the dust and the filter gets the rest. You don't have to clean the filter nearly as often. When you notice you're not getting enough suction (more dust not being sucked up) just change the bag.
right, we've several shop vac's w/ filters to catch fine/small "particlees." i'm looking for a sander with an attached vacuum w/ a proper filter and probably a collection hood. when using the sander on the ceiling i use both hands. we tried having the 'Missus' holding-up the shop vac, but the "particlees" were dispersed too greatly to catch them. this was in conjunction of using a sander with a vacuum collection. there is suction at the sides of the sander where the dust blows out but it is not effective. proper collection would probably involve some sort of housing around the entire unit to capture/collect the dust.

speaking of dust collection on power tools, the MAC miter saw has a dust collection bag on it. it doesn't collect saw dust on the inside. plenty on the outside though. what is the purpose of these dust collection bags other than to get in the way?

maybe it is being at 4,000 feet above sea level that disables these vacuum units.

Last edited by rosco; 07-07-2010 at 04:39 PM. Reason: the last line of that post is a joke
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:18 AM   #21
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Repairing cracks from settling


i'm using a wet rag using hot water to sand the ceiling above much immovable furniture (it can be moved, but only down a set of stairs).

the mud i'm sanding with this hot/wet rag is the 20 minute dry mix joint compound with the setting agent.

i'll need to sand down some thick stuff but 95% of the sanding will be out of the way without sand paper or sander! or dust!
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:05 AM   #22
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Repairing cracks from settling


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Ridgid makes a compact shop vac for contractors. It is a 4 gallon capacity, 5 horse motor, and you can get bags for it. It's what I use almost exclusively. The bag catches 90 percent of the dust and the filter gets the rest. You don't have to clean the filter nearly as often. When you notice you're not getting enough suction (more dust not being sucked up) just change the bag.
fwiw - another vote for the Rigid with the bag inside. I finally got really fed up with not being able to clean up the work area too well - and I make a lot of mess (I'm NOT the best drywaller in the world). I picked up a Rigid 6 horse with drywall dust filter included - and added the dust bag as well. Even with the 3 layer filter and the fine dust bag, his unit could suck up a basketball. Bags were a bit pricey but less than replacing filter - the original filter and the vacuum can so far are still clean! so I'd say well worth it...
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Old 07-09-2010, 10:24 AM   #23
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Repairing cracks from settling


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If you are filling large gaps, a setting type like Durabond is the way to go, then cover with finish compound.
quite a while ago (when I bought my house) I added a patio door out to back deck. I replaced the drywall / insulation etc. on the whole wall where the door went in. Where I mudded the corners (new drywall meeting old) it cracked within a couple months (I used premix and mesh tape). I did these 2 corners again using a setting compound (sheetrock 90) and mesh tape - lasted until the winter - then another crack appeared (I think the seasonal expand / contract thing on that wall was whacking it). Guess I learn the hard way - maybe 3rd time's a charm - mesh tape w durabond this time, with sheetrock 90 over that - several years later and no cracks . I suppose every situation is different, but just noting that in my case, the durabond seemed to make the difference in a trouble spot. Or maybe I just had enough practice by that time to get it right
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Old 07-09-2010, 03:59 PM   #24
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Repairing cracks from settling


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quite a while ago (when I bought my house) I added a patio door out to back deck. I replaced the drywall / insulation etc. on the whole wall where the door went in. Where I mudded the corners (new drywall meeting old) it cracked within a couple months (I used premix and mesh tape). I did these 2 corners again using a setting compound (sheetrock 90) and mesh tape - lasted until the winter - then another crack appeared (I think the seasonal expand / contract thing on that wall was whacking it). Guess I learn the hard way - maybe 3rd time's a charm - mesh tape w durabond this time, with sheetrock 90 over that - several years later and no cracks . I suppose every situation is different, but just noting that in my case, the durabond seemed to make the difference in a trouble spot. Or maybe I just had enough practice by that time to get it right
i thought the Sheetrock Lightweight-setting type joint compound had the durabond setting agent in it??? whatever it is i use, it must be available at home depot or Lowes. they are the only two stores in town that i know of who sell to those w/o a business license. i won't order these supplies on-line
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Old 07-09-2010, 04:18 PM   #25
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fwiw - another vote for the Rigid with the bag inside. I finally got really fed up with not being able to clean up the work area too well - and I make a lot of mess (I'm NOT the best drywaller in the world). I picked up a Rigid 6 horse with drywall dust filter included - and added the dust bag as well. Even with the 3 layer filter and the fine dust bag, his unit could suck up a basketball. Bags were a bit pricey but less than replacing filter - the original filter and the vacuum can so far are still clean! so I'd say well worth it...
it isn't cleaning up the mess. my idea is to stop the dust before it settles throughout the house, clogs up the HVAC filter, etc. even if i were to tape off the doorways and shut off the HVAC system the dust would still get in the brick walls, cover nearby walls, etc. i wish to collect the dust while sanding at a very close proximity.
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Old 07-10-2010, 11:39 AM   #26
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Repairing cracks from settling


Probably the best collection system is the Porter Cable sander/vac combination. You can rent them at a rental store or some HD's have them in their rental dept. I've got a knock-off I use for sanding heavy textures and they do a good job. The sander itself is pretty heavy, so not conducive to long sanding sessions. Really, none of them will get ALL of the dust, no matter what they claim....
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Old 07-12-2010, 12:33 PM   #27
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Repairing cracks from settling


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i thought the Sheetrock Lightweight-setting type joint compound had the durabond setting agent in it??? whatever it is i use, it must be available at home depot or Lowes. they are the only two stores in town that i know of who sell to those w/o a business license. i won't order these supplies on-line
the stuff I used is Sheetrock 90 and Durabond 90 - 2 different dry products in 25 lb bags (also available in smaller packages / boxes if you have a small job) - HD and other h/w stores sell both here. I never used a ton of the durabond but the 25 lb bag is not much more $ than a couple of the small boxes and running out of anything is a pain, out at my location.
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Old 07-12-2010, 04:16 PM   #28
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Repairing cracks from settling


the patching and tape/mud jobs are almost done. an employee at HD, over the phone, said they didn't carry anything like that. i don't remember anything like that but i'll look next time i'm there. if any of these crack, i'll use durabond to fix it.

THX!

about the sander with a vacuum - we are simply running the HVAC fan without using the AC to filter out the dust. i remove the HVAC filter after the dust has settled and turn the AC back on. i run a shop vac with a filter made for sheet rock dust, but it doesn't grab 25% of the dust being produced. i've given up on dusting. i've asked the wifey to not dust until all these sanding jobs are done. (i quite don't care about dust. it seems to make things more "lived-in" but she simply can not abide it).
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Old 07-12-2010, 05:58 PM   #29
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Repairing cracks from settling


Tape a good furnace filter in front of the intake grill until done with the sanding, save the motor.....

Be safe, Gary
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Old 07-14-2010, 06:43 AM   #30
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Tape a good furnace filter in front of the intake grill until done with the sanding, save the motor.....

Be safe, Gary
i'm not following. tape a piece of fiber mesh on the air intake? if so, it wouldn't work on this one i don't ... yeah, it might. that is a good idea

here is a photo of one much like the one we have: Ryobi's Crappy hand-held sander. boy, i tell you. htis thing shoots dust all over the place. i'm not sure if it comes from under the sanding pad, above it, out of the vacuum holes or the sides of the thing. but in seconds dust is solid for about ten feet out. it is like i'm instantly "Pig Pen" on Charlie Brown with the cloud around me.

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