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mollylibby 06-25-2012 05:46 PM

Repair Outside Corner Drywall in Bath
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When we remodeled our bath a few years ago there was no matching baseboard tile so our contractor put in 6" maple baseboards. Unfortunately, despite wiping the floor off in the corner after every shower, the wood baseboard acted like a sponge and now the metal corner beading is rusty and the drywall is somewhat crumbly. I'm thinking that the wall in this area should have been cement backerboard. I've removed the loose portions of the drywall and the loose, rusty metal corner piece (see pictures). The remaining drywall appears to be stable and not moldy. My question is, what is the best way to repair this so that I can securely attach the granite baseboard? Should I continue to cut out the drywall up to where the metal corner piece is no longer rusty and replace with backer board? If so, I'm not sure how I'm going to do this as the wall only sticks out about 1 inch beyond the shower so there isn't a lot of space to put in a larger piece. Any help would be very much appreciated as I'm a novice at anything other than basic drywall repair!

joetab24 06-27-2012 07:24 PM

Can you post a pic zoomed out a bit?

joecaption 06-27-2012 07:28 PM

By having the wall so close to the tub it makes it near impossible to finish it.
And your right it would have been better to have tile board and bull nosed tile in that area.

Bonzai 06-27-2012 07:37 PM

There should be a wooden stud right behind that corner bead ... once the damaged corner bead & drywall is removed, you could glue & screw a piece of cement board to that stud (using PL400 construction adhesive or similar) and then do a skim coat of drywall mud over the cement board (as it's surface is too rough for painting directly) down as far as where the granite baseboard will be (or rather an inch further just so as there is no chance of an ugly join), On the lower section of the cement board I would then recommend a product such as (I am in Canada so you will need to pick your location). We use this product a lot with great results. 2 coats is usually enough.
Use a quality silicon caulking in the gap (about 1/8") between the shower base and the cement board so as no water can get behind the cement board if the silicon between the tile baseboard and the shower base fails ... extra defence so to speak.

If this is as clear as mud (no pun intended) I can perhaps explain better when not just finished a long day :thumbsup:

Edit: reason for the glue & only a couple of screws is that piece will be so narrow it may just split if you put any more than a couple of screws in. Use decking screws or similar intended for wet/cement board application.

mollylibby 06-27-2012 08:07 PM

Thanks so much for all the replies. The idea of using glue since it is such a small piece (along with a couple of screws for the cement board) is a great one. That, along with the membrane product and good caulking should do the trick so this doesn't happen again. I'm also going to use a non-metal corner bead. I'm ready to move forward with a lot more confidence.

scottktmrider 07-01-2012 09:51 AM

You can cut the bead off with a hack saw a few inches above the bad part and put a new piece in.Or if you can do it take all the metal bead off and put no coat plastic bull nose bead.

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