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Old 01-07-2011, 08:59 AM   #16
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Removing Drywall for Repairs


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Originally Posted by Axecutioner-B View Post
Great discussion !! :p
It started to bore me so i stopped replying to stupidity really. Even if anyone can do it them selfves. why risk it? it just makes no sense to me. Its a real inconvience if i accidentally burn my house down. hey apparently those diy ers that put pennies in the circuit breaker knew what they were doing huh! i Guess he proved me right on one point. They could do it by themselves. It worked. They burnt the house down. And they didnt even have to do any wiring! I just had a circut breaker go out. Yes i changed it myself. yes like a dummy i didnt even turn off the power. no i didnt shock myself, was it stupid yes. i could have ****ed some **** up too. but i was lucky.

I am all for diy but i am also all for common sense. Paying pro is sometime so much faster then not. with all the wierd stuff that they do in homes and trying to figure it out can be a real pain. You need tools to do it, testers, readers, blah blah. blah.

and i to have seen good patches and the homeowners did great. they still called me because they couldnt get it just right.



People confuse arrogance with knowing your stuff. I know my stuff. don't blame me for it.

I just got bored typing this. Its 10 Am i think i might go to work now.

also: a wise man once said, "arguing over the internet is like running in the special olympics, even if you win, you are still retarded"

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Last edited by stoner529; 01-07-2011 at 09:02 AM.
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Old 01-07-2011, 04:02 PM   #17
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Removing Drywall for Repairs


Check the drywall to see if it is loosing its integrity. You can do this by poking it with a nail or a screw driver. Find the worst spot and start there, keep cutting drywall out that has lost its strength and any wet insulation. Or if the rock is still solid I would try first a try to find the problem behind the stains.

I wouldn't worry to much about the baseboard, pop it off if necessary with a flat bar and try to save it. As far as the crown molding goes I would stay about a foot down from the ceiling if the sheetrock in the corner of the ceiling and the ceiling itself still has integrity. If they don't then you will have to remove the crown moldng. By staying at least a foot away from the crown molding you will be givng yourself room to mud in your drywall patch without having to mess with your crown molding. Giving access to look to the top plate to see if there are leaks.

If it has had lots of water damage it will start to deteriorate. If there is water damage then you could possibly looking at mold and mildew which needs to be removed. Once you start cutting and looking, it won't matter how big the demolition is because you have to take out all that is part of the problem. The patching of the drywall maybe the easiest part. Its the leaking I would be worried about. You must get it fixed before it starts rotting the wood members.

When you patch in the drywall use taping mud loosely mixed, almost runny, with paper tape, but prefill any large gaps (with mud that is straight out of the box) that there might be in the patching area to be taped and let dry, before taping.
You will need a mud pan, plastic at Home Depot. A 6 in. knife, a 8 in. knife and a 12 in.. The 6 is for tape coat the 8 is for the second coat and the 12 is for the finish coat. Let each coat dry thoroughly and sand in between coats. Buy sponge sanding block with a fine grit (Home Depot). Don't be afraid of it just keep sanding and applying mud until it looks smooth.

If you have textured walls you will need to take a wet cloth wrung out and lightly wipe the ridge that will be there from the mud. The wet cloth will loosing the mud so wipe only enough to get rid of the ridge. This is done after you have finished mudding and are touching up. There is texture in a can. That would depend on what kind of texture you have.
Manufacturers recommend that you prime the patch befor texturing and again after texture, then paint. Don't try to save money on the primer. I use Parker Pro Prime. All primers are not quality primers!

If you have a big patch job (most of a wall) you can rent sprayers. Its messy but you learn and save money.

Last edited by redmanblackdog; 01-07-2011 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:27 AM   #18
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Removing Drywall for Repairs


dig up a real old fossil on this one.

so i asked my favorite insurance agent what she said about this whole diy electrial issue.

she says, the insurance agents will insure you if you have all the proper inspections. she also said, WE RECOMEND TO ALL OUR CLIENTS NOT TO DIY AND TO HIRE A LICENSED PROFESIONAL. my favorite electrician was standing right next to her when she said that. HE AGREED. said it is stupid for people to do that kind of work themselves. she said she has heard of licensed workers doing serious damage and so has he. i guess that solved my question. im done. i no longer need to argue this as for an agent saying anyone can do it but it is very stupid to just lets me know its not a good idea.
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Old 01-13-2011, 10:54 AM   #19
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Removing Drywall for Repairs


You did say top floor, no?

It could be a roof leak which in most condominiums is a common responsibility.

Still you would want to guess where pipes run. You will still have to cut out any wet drywall but if it is dry and not moldy but still stained, you don't have to remove it unless needed to fix the leak or problem.
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Old 01-13-2011, 12:42 PM   #20
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Leave the pipes, the baby will get used to the sound and adjust. This is just my humble opinion. My friends have children and keep the house whisper quiet when it is nap time. As a result of the child not being used to sound, I can cough in another room and wake him up. I know this isn't the advice you are looking for but it is worth considering.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:17 PM   #21
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There are good videos on you tube. One simple remedy for a patch - cut a piece 4" bigger than what you cut out, Score the face 2" in on either side, snap it back and remove the gypsum core leaving the back paper, mud lightly around the inside of hole with an adequate amount around the outside of the removed piece, place the filler in the hole with back paper facing out, trowel in place and cover lightly with mud flaring the slight bump out.
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Old 01-13-2011, 09:43 PM   #22
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BLB just joined forum.Ive been a DIYer for 40 yrs.Small rehabs and full house remodels.Having a diyer on site in doing projects is help full .Drywall and mudding is an art ,stoner .Electric should be done by experienced ppeople.I work for westinghouse electric for 15 yrs its nothing to play with.
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Old 01-29-2011, 02:22 AM   #23
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given it is a condo you should be talking to the strata before opening up the wall and dealing with any internals, as it is "common" property kind of thing.

I recently had a pipe leak in my wall, didn't affect my suite but did my neighbours, so they had to cut open wall, fix, etc. all paid for by strata.....

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