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-   -   Quietrock and Green Glue for soundproof ceiling (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/quietrock-green-glue-soundproof-ceiling-67297/)

Isaac Clarke 03-21-2010 07:52 PM

Quietrock and Green Glue for soundproof ceiling
 
Hello all,

I have a question concerning a possible soundproofing attempt in my condo. I get a bit of loud stomps from the upstairs neighbors kids (toddlers) and I was considering putting a layer of green glue and quietrock over my existing ceiling to help tone down most of the stomping noise.

I cant redo the current ceiling so my only option would be to build on whats already there.

Do you guys think I'm wasting my time and money with this method, or could you recommend something else? The room I'm going to do first is my main bedroom, which is roughly 13 feet by 12 feet, so I dont think it will be that expensive of a project.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks

Ted White 03-22-2010 09:34 AM

I'd consider the costs here. There are many "pre-damped" drywall brands available these days. You can field apply the damping compound and use standard drywall. Cheaper, heavier and more sound isolating.

bjbatlanta 03-22-2010 03:46 PM

Totally soundproofing would require much more. The sound travels through the framing members, the fasteners, any penetrations (HVAC ducting, lighting cutouts, fire sprinklers if you have them, etc.). Your proposal would likely help cut down the noise transmission to some degree....

Ted White 03-22-2010 05:34 PM

That's true especially for footfall noise. If the ceiling could be removed that would allow a much better range of possibilities.

Also keep in mind that sound is entering through your walls also to some unknown degree.

bjbatlanta 03-22-2010 06:33 PM

Yep, you can take "soundproofing" to various degrees. It CAN become an expensive proposition. And the best laid plans.... I recall a basement finish job many years ago.
The wife was a former concert pianist who gave lessons at home (we're talking a "baby" grand piano). It sounded like she had an amplifier hooked up when she played it. Husband wanted a "soundproof" office in the basement. At the time we installed the best sound "deadening" products at our disposal. Sound "attenuation" blankets between the joists, RC1 channel, "sound deadening" board, and a layer of 5/8" firecode drywall. Seemed to work pretty well. Then he decided he need more lighting, so he had the electrician come in and cut 2"x4" holes and mount fluorescent lights in the ceiling. Needless to say......

Isaac Clarke 03-22-2010 07:33 PM

Yeah, I read a bunch online, and saw that in my case, the sounds travels through a lot of different parts, not just through the ceiling.

Well, drywall is only about $7-8 a sheet, and a case of green glue is about $175. So, if my math is at least partly right, it wouldnt even cost me $300.00, including paint.

I mean...would I even notice the difference at all? What would you guys do in my situation? If it were your money, would you spend it on this type of soundproofing method? I know I cant completely soundproof my room, but with this method could I at least cut the noise down 30-40% or so?

And would using sound clips, or recillient channel help a lot more in my situation?

tpolk 03-22-2010 07:49 PM

they make a ceiling track that helps to seperate and to minimize transfer of sound/vibrations that screws to the ceiling and you then hang your drywall from. sorry dont know the name of it at the moment but this green material may be for a similar affect. not familiar with it

Ted White 03-23-2010 08:10 AM

Isaac, difficult to say if treating only one wall will do it for you. I can say it's extremely common to do just the ceiling with an offending neighbor on the other side.

The question is how much sound may be coming through the walls as well as through the obvious ceiling.

If possible, the best solution is to remove your existing drywall, install a clip and channel system (not resilient channel), a bit of R13 fiberglass and double 5/8" drywall with a damping compound.

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...fing_ceilings/

Isaac Clarke 03-29-2010 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ted White (Post 418518)
Isaac, difficult to say if treating only one wall will do it for you. I can say it's extremely common to do just the ceiling with an offending neighbor on the other side.

The question is how much sound may be coming through the walls as well as through the obvious ceiling.

If possible, the best solution is to remove your existing drywall, install a clip and channel system (not resilient channel), a bit of R13 fiberglass and double 5/8" drywall with a damping compound.

http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/...fing_ceilings/


You know, maybe I'll try solution #1 from the site you posted. The cost for this doesnt seem to be so much, and it looks like it should help a bit. Also, if it doesnt work out so well then I wont feel so bad because I didnt spend that much!

JoanaC 04-13-2010 06:14 AM

Thanks for that link Ted. Lots of useful information.
But I still don’t think the footfall will be reduced totally. If I use a layer of foam and a layer quietwood on the floor, won’t that be enough instead having so many layers of drywall and glue?

Ted White 04-13-2010 07:20 AM

JoanaC,

The original poster was asking about ceiling treatments. Your description is for a floor. Treating the floor when footfall noise is an issue is more effective than only treating the ceiling, but in most instances the neighbor upstairs isn't tearing out their floor.

If treating a floor for footfall noise, having a thin decoupling layer and then damped mass on top is generally quite effective. You'd be adding plywood layers on top rather than drywall layers under as we've been discussing.

JoanaC 04-21-2010 04:01 AM

Sorry Ted for misinterpreting the data. I though he has access to the floor, I missed reading “neighbors kids”.
A double 5/8" drywall with a damping compound installed to clips should do.

Ted White 04-21-2010 08:39 AM

I see your point. Your assessment is right on the money as long as the existing drywall is removed first. Then apply the clips and channel.

kgphoto 05-18-2010 12:24 PM

Wouldn't adding RC and another layer help? This would add mass and provide some isolation.

I too was going to mention a floor treatment combined, as I missed the word "neighbor's too. :)

Ted White 05-18-2010 12:29 PM

RC (Reslient Channel) is a problematic product. There's no specification for its construction, unlike other steel framing components like Drywall Furring Channel.

To answer your question you could use the RC, however the existing drywall must be removed first. This is a classic, well documented example of how adding decoupling (the RC) and the mass (the drywall) produces no real improvement if this is installed over existing drywall.


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