DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Drywall & Plaster (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/)
-   -   Qs: About to commit to tile on drywall. (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/qs-about-commit-tile-drywall-181207/)

sablesurfer 06-03-2013 02:59 PM

Qs: About to commit to tile on drywall.
 
Ok, so lots and lots of research and a bunch from this site. So signed up to ask a few clarifying questions.

Just installed acrylic tub and shower surround. So all the directly wet areas are pretty much taken care of with that install. (As soon as I verify that the shower head not leaking then all those bits sealed with caulk.)

My question is slightly different than all the 'tile in the bathroom' questions. This tile is going to go "around" the surround and not actually inside the showering area. It is a glass trim tile about 4" x 12" made up of tiny little squares. Really nice and will be a great accent to a rather plain bathroom.

So:
1) Entire surround of the shower area has at least 6" of green board on tops and 18" on sides. (Surround is nailed to studs as per manufacturer's instructions.)
2) When installing the green board I deliberately cut it so that all the paper edges were overlapping the surround's flange.
3) The drywall is at least 1/16 - 1/8 away from touching the surround.
4) Didn't hardibacker along the sides because next stud was so far away it would have taken way more than necessary.

The plan before this forum, cause it made sense, was to tape the surround off. Use a waterproof primer on the greenboard. Then put a silicon bead in that gap I left. Then tile and finish rest of wall. This is where I seem to have lost track of all the info I have gathered.

-- I have started taping and mudding, the edges are out past where tile will be. But the corners and joins would be under the tile.
==== It seems I need to take that off?

-- Can I still put that silicon bead between the board and the acrylic surround?
==== Just still makes sense to me, but I am not a contstruction professional

-- I plan to use just a poly(?) white thinset over the drywall. Mount tiles. Grout and spray water sealant over. Rest of walls will get primer (lots of options mentioned here) and then latex paint, probably Behr.
==== Does this make sense?

-- I have read in multiple places that I won't want to use the primer under the thin set. I had planned to do that before researching. (Cause I really want to make this water proof if I can since not using the hardibacker.)
==== Is it true that I shouldn't put any paint down before tiling?

-- I would like to use this plastic painted bullnose stuff I found at Lowes to edge the tile side away from tub. Thinking it would look neater that way. (Rather than me trying to grout an angle from wall to tile edge.)
==== Opinions on how to work with this?

So, since this is not in the 'wet' area but in the damp of a bathroom, this plan seems like it will still work.

Not a professional, just a guy who had done a whole lot of this and that and then over researches the heck out of it.

sablesurfer 06-03-2013 03:22 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Pics to help explain my rantings.

sablesurfer 06-03-2013 04:27 PM

HA...sigh...found this after posting, think it is close to what I am planning?

http://www.diychatroom.com/f4/paint-...r-tile-173812/

joecaption 06-03-2013 04:37 PM

Where's the nailers for the drywall on the sides? I always use a 2 X 6 laying flat so someone can install a curtin rod.
That's some odd ball drywalling. Those back and side walls should have been done with soild pieces of green board not scraps.

joecaption 06-03-2013 04:41 PM

deleted

jeffnc 06-03-2013 05:06 PM

With full size tile, I think a caulked edge would look fine. You seem to be describing a mosaic tile, and I'm not crazy about leaving the edges of those visible, so I like the idea of a trim tile around it.

There's really no need for green drywall at all. You might think you're getting mold resistance, but the main thing is that it should never get wet. If it does get wet (i.e. more than just a little sprinkle that will dry up without soaking the grout), then it can't be installed over any kind of drywall. The green drywall is used in dry areas of your bathroom, since bathrooms can get steamy and humid. But if liquid moisture is getting to your drywall for any significant period of time, green drywall won't really help.

sablesurfer 06-03-2013 06:37 PM

Hey Joe, good thought on the 2*6. I get what you are saying, but yeah didn't even do that. The one thought we had, that would have been scope creep would have been to recess a section of wall as a towel hanger, since such a tiny room. I decided not enough brain power to do a 'new' creative part of the project.

And, those aren't scrap. They are very carefully cut in predetermined dimensions. :wink:

Jeff, yes a mosaic tile, that is what we have. This should not be area that is getting any direct wetting. It would only get wet from condensation or from people splashing to vigorously...I am figuring. So really just looking for a way to provide a little sheeting action to not let it hit the wall directly and decoration.

ToolSeeker 06-04-2013 07:00 AM

In my opinion primer would be a waste since your going to tile. If the water gets thru your grout thru your thin set primer sure ain't going to stop it. If your worried about water proofing seal it with red guard. And in a lot of places code calls for green board in bathrooms except in the wet areas where it's cement board. Green board is not just for mold it's moisture resistant, not moisture proof, so it's good for steamy showers and humidity.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:31 AM.


Copyright 2003-2014 Escalate Media LP. All Rights Reserved