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Old 03-09-2009, 11:35 AM   #16
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premix joint compound vs setting type


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I'm no pro, but am doing quite a bit of drywall, including texture and knockdown, for my home remodel. In the interest of sharing breadth of experience on this (excellent) site, I'd like to mention that I always thin my final, topping coat of all-purpose premixed mud a bit before applying it and using a 12-14" knife for finishing. This seems to work very well for me, and leaves behind a very thin layer that dries about as fast as setting types. I do this in the mud tray, not the bucket, and a little goes a long way. I guess I like the feel of thinned stuff better than un-thinned premix for this final coat. I haven't used topping compound proper yet, so I can't say that this method is better. Also, I'm "down" with the use of the setting compounds for gap filling and embedding, and wish I'd switched to using it years ago -- the crack resistance alone makes it worth buying the separate bag!
Dude, you just responded to an almost 4 year old thread.

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Old 12-29-2009, 01:39 PM   #17
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premix joint compound vs setting type


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Dude, you just responded to an almost 4 year old thread.
Good information is good information regardless of the time stamp. This thread was the first thing to come up in my search, and so far it has been the most helpful. Excellent thread... here's to another four years!
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:50 PM   #18
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Not quite 4 years, but I found it as well in my search. Helpful info.
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Old 03-13-2012, 10:51 PM   #19
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And I just found it now. Long live the thread!

As a bumbling DIYer I've only ever used pre-mix. The long drying times kinda suck, but I usually have plenty of other jobs to do so adding another coat just becomes a daily chore and then I move on to other things while it dries. I might decide to branch out to the setting stuff but so far I don't mind the results I've achieved with pre-mix. I also am a big fan of the free bucket you get when you're all done!
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:02 AM   #20
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The thread that will not die......
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Old 03-16-2012, 02:10 PM   #21
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The thread that will not die......
Atlantic, do you have anything helpfull to add to this conversation, or just ****ty comments? Keep up the great info guys!
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Old 03-16-2012, 08:13 PM   #22
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Atlantic, do you have anything helpfull to add to this conversation, or just ****ty comments? .......
Umm.....it was meant as a Joke (humorous statement about the thread's 7-year longevity).

....seriously WTF? You really need to chill-out.

...Slinging censored insults = over nothing - and at the drop of a hat.

You have 49 posts over 5 years time, yet, you insult me, and demand that I be helpful on this site?
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Old 03-17-2012, 07:18 AM   #23
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You have 49 posts over 5 years time, yet, you insult me, and demand that I be helpful on this site?
Well sure! Isn't that why we pay you the BIG BUCKS here????



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Old 03-17-2012, 11:18 AM   #24
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To add something new to this ancient thread...


I always add a little liquid dish soap to pre-mix, as well as thinning it down with water at times.

Helps getting a nice smooth spread.
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Old 03-11-2014, 03:32 PM   #25
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okay, so I have been reading through some of these threads and found some really good info. However, I have been using the lightweight compound (premixed) for ALL of my work (and have been using the sticky mesh tape). I add a little water to the tray to help thin it out just a little as it seems like it is too thick without adding water.

Now that I have read a TON of info, I think I am going to try my hand with paper tape instead of the mesh (finishing my basement). Can I still just use the lightweight compound or should I really get some of the setting for the first coat, and just use the lightweight for the rest (don't really want to waste 5 gallons of this stuff!)?

Another thing, the person who finished part of my basement before I bought the house did a horrible taping job on the butt joints (did not feather it out very well so you can see where the seams are...by like 8"!) and I was wondering if there is a way to fix this without cutting massive chunks of 'rock out and re-taping.
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Old 03-11-2014, 04:57 PM   #26
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okay, so I have been reading through some of these threads and found some really good info. However, I have been using the lightweight compound (premixed) for ALL of my work (and have been using the sticky mesh tape). I add a little water to the tray to help thin it out just a little as it seems like it is too thick without adding water.

Now that I have read a TON of info, I think I am going to try my hand with paper tape instead of the mesh (finishing my basement). Can I still just use the lightweight compound or should I really get some of the setting for the first coat, and just use the lightweight for the rest (don't really want to waste 5 gallons of this stuff!)?

Another thing, the person who finished part of my basement before I bought the house did a horrible taping job on the butt joints (did not feather it out very well so you can see where the seams are...by like 8"!) and I was wondering if there is a way to fix this without cutting massive chunks of 'rock out and re-taping.
dampen the tape prior to application to mud.
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Old 03-11-2014, 10:21 PM   #27
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so can I just use the lightweight and be fine? Also, what do you think about the last part of my post? How do I fix noticeable seams?
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:20 AM   #28
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Yes you can use the lightweight but the chance for cracking is greater. What makes it lighter also makes it weaker. Having said this I know people that use it all the time without problems.
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Old 03-12-2014, 06:28 AM   #29
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premix joint compound vs setting type


nv....it helps to put your location in your profile....

You will hear some references to red top, green top...etc. On the west coast....the only color bucket I've seen is red dot....

I'm sort of liking the bag stuff that you mix....in my area it's 20 min, 40 min and 90 min.

I've got some 40 min....but I really have to work fast to get it all up before it sets.....this weekend I'm going to try 90 min....

I mix it right in the mud tray.....and I use mesh...I have not seen better results with paper....but that is me....

And I have had better results mixing it up a bit wetter...edges feather easier....it's messier....but I find that I have less sanding.
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Old 03-12-2014, 07:07 AM   #30
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profile updated...sorry bout that! lol.

So if I do try a setting compound, can I still use the mesh that I already have a roll of or do I need to use something else?

What is the best way to fix cracked seams and how do I fix noticeable seams that were not mudded correctly? Whoever finished part of my basement before I bought the house did not feather it out well so you see a large "hump" over every joint (and the walls are textured and painted flat!!!)

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