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Old 05-04-2005, 06:24 PM   #1
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premix joint compound vs setting type


can someone tell me which is better and easier to use, premix joint compound or the setting type that you have to mix with water? and how do you estimate how much of this you will need?

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Old 05-05-2005, 06:59 AM   #2
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Actually you need to add water to either type of compound, the premix should be thinned with water to a proper working consistency, depending on what you are doing with it.

I use quick set for the first coat on butt joints and outside corners because of it sets harder than the premixed types. We also use it for prefilling any gaps in the sheets. Setting type compound also can be sanded and recoated within as little as 15 mins, so we also use it for small repair work or patching.

When you get into the premixed types of compounds there are 3 basic types. All-Purpose, Light, & Topping Mix.

The manufacturer's and the industry specs call for All-Purpose to be used for taping, light is used for subsequent fill & finish coats. Topping Mix is strictly for final finish & texture coats.

If you would specify what you're doing I can advise you as to the best product to use for your purposes.

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Old 05-05-2005, 09:19 AM   #3
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Im finishing a basement wiht 1/2" drywall. so do you use both types on the same job? I have used the premix before but never tried to use the setting type. I noticed that there is a setting type that can be sanded easily and one that is supposed to set hard like plaster. any advantages to eithor one of these?

thanks
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Old 05-05-2005, 03:10 PM   #4
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premix joint compound vs setting type


If you are a novice or newbie to floating, I would use the pre-mix. For me, I find it easier to use.
For just basic drywall, i would use pre-mix. I use the setting type for bigger holes and whatnot.

But who am I, but just a paperhanger. Housedoc would know best.
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Old 05-05-2005, 09:16 PM   #5
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Ive used the premixed a little before. Ive got the hang of it pretty much when it comes to applying it to the board. never used the setting type. I guess I should just break down and try it. the drying time is starting to talk to me and pull me in.

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Old 05-05-2005, 09:17 PM   #6
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premix joint compound vs setting type


House Doc,
Can you tell me why drywall manufacturers taper only two ends of the sheet? I do a good job when taping these seams and using all purpose drywall compound, but the joints that are not tapered come out terrible looking when light comes across these seams.
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Old 05-06-2005, 07:59 AM   #7
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premix joint compound vs setting type


When the board is first formed it's in a very long ribbon, like 1/4 mile, then it's cut to length per order. There is a tool out now, which does a wonderful job of creating a recessed edge on the butt joints. It's called the Butt Taper, this was dreamed up by a drywall finisher, imagine that:D, and is still nationally distributed thru Ford's drywall, I believe they are from NJ or somewhere on the east coast. Here's a link to the site where you can purchase the tool on line. For a diyer doing a large project this would be worth while I think & you could resell the tool on e-bay after you were finished. The tool does do a wonderful job and allows you to finish out the butt joints so they are just 6" wide.

Normally you will have to feather out the butts to 18"-24" wide to hide them.
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Old 05-01-2008, 10:22 PM   #8
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Quote:
Originally Posted by housedocs View Post
Actually you need to add water to either type of compound, the premix should be thinned with water to a proper working consistency, depending on what you are doing with it.

I use quick set for the first coat on butt joints and outside corners because of it sets harder than the premixed types. We also use it for prefilling any gaps in the sheets. Setting type compound also can be sanded and recoated within as little as 15 mins, so we also use it for small repair work or patching.

When you get into the premixed types of compounds there are 3 basic types. All-Purpose, Light, & Topping Mix.

The manufacturer's and the industry specs call for All-Purpose to be used for taping, light is used for subsequent fill & finish coats. Topping Mix is strictly for final finish & texture coats.

If you would specify what you're doing I can advise you as to the best product to use for your purposes.
I own a drywall and interior consultation company. I never add water to my premix compound. Actually, if I am not mistaken, it says never to add water. The only time I mess with the consitency is when I am using an auto taper. And as far as most of the posts have gone in these forums, most finishers are telling the average joe to use durabond or a "setting compound" quick note to newbies make sure the sack mud you buy is the ez sand type. You will hate yourself knowing that the brown bag durabond is a *************** to sand as opposed to the easy sand stuff in the white bag.
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Old 05-02-2008, 02:15 AM   #9
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Quote:
Originally Posted by ebbtideinteriors View Post
I own a drywall and interior consultation company. I never add water to my premix compound. Actually, if I am not mistaken, it says never to add water. The only time I mess with the consitency is when I am using an auto taper. And as far as most of the posts have gone in these forums, most finishers are telling the average joe to use durabond or a "setting compound" quick note to newbies make sure the sack mud you buy is the ez sand type. You will hate yourself knowing that the brown bag durabond is a *************** to sand as opposed to the easy sand stuff in the white bag.
Dude, you just responded to a 3 year old thread.
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:58 AM   #10
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premix joint compound vs setting type


But people look for info here all the time, so updating information is a good thing. Dude.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:28 AM   #11
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premix joint compound vs setting type


on the butted joints it seems to help me if i cut the edge down slight on an angle with a knife before hanging the sheet. not much, mostly to remove the paper that sticks out slightly. durabond is sweet for the taping coat, and filling the large gaps if you didn't cut the board right. in fact i usually cut them a little bit small on purpose because i hate when they dont fit and i have use the rasp multiple times just to get it to fit. is this bad?
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:56 PM   #12
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Hey Atlantic!

The dude is right - It's now 2009 and I'm reading this thread - educating myself! It's DIY time in my household, and I'm reading so much of this stuff my eyes are red-rimmed road maps!
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Old 03-01-2009, 07:07 PM   #13
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Perhaps it's time for the experts to do a thread on mudding and sanding drywall in the 'How-to' forum. With all of my knowledge on the subject, I probably wouldn't get through the first sentence, so it will have to be someone else ....
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Old 03-02-2009, 05:36 AM   #14
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premix joint compound vs setting type


Besides this thread had nothing but poor information until this revival. Good job. Pros would normally use setting for first and second coats, and premix for finishing. But never add to the premix.
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Old 03-09-2009, 11:22 AM   #15
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premix joint compound vs setting type


I'm no pro, but am doing quite a bit of drywall, including texture and knockdown, for my home remodel. In the interest of sharing breadth of experience on this (excellent) site, I'd like to mention that I always thin my final, topping coat of all-purpose premixed mud a bit before applying it and using a 12-14" knife for finishing. This seems to work very well for me, and leaves behind a very thin layer that dries about as fast as setting types. I do this in the mud tray, not the bucket, and a little goes a long way. I guess I like the feel of thinned stuff better than un-thinned premix for this final coat. I haven't used topping compound proper yet, so I can't say that this method is better. Also, I'm "down" with the use of the setting compounds for gap filling and embedding, and wish I'd switched to using it years ago -- the crack resistance alone makes it worth buying the separate bag!

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