Poll: Pull Down Or Leave Up? - Drywall & Plaster - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum


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View Poll Results: What should I do with my flawed ceiling panels
Leave it up as it. Do my best to fix it in the mudding and taping stage 1 33.33%
Take down only the ceiling panels and redo them to fit a bit better 1 33.33%
Remove all panels (ceiling and walls, trim, etc) and do it right 1 33.33%
Voters: 3. This poll is closed

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Old 10-12-2011, 11:56 AM   #1
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Poll: Pull down or leave up?


Okay, so I did my first run of drywalling ceiling this week. I was using 12' panels with a hoist and since it's a repair job and some of the walls are still in place, I've gotten the panels in place but NOT all sitting perfectly in a position where the wall panels will support the edges of the panel. On three sides the ceiling meets vertical walls. On the fourth, it meets a 45 degree cathedral ceiling (ie. inside corners at the ceiling are pretty much exactly 135). The walls also, apparently, aren't exactly square, which I forget to check for before cutting the panels and now it's too late (at least for these panels) as they're too short in spots.

I'm putting my options in the form of a poll, in the hopes that I'll get maximum responses before it's too late (ie. before I put up the wall panels and start mudding). If you have a more detailed comment, please do share it, I'm happy to hear.

I'm not in an insane rush, and I'm not worried horrified about cost, so I'm willing and even leaning towards option three. I own the hoist now, as I got it on sale, so I can redo the whole thing if that's best. I can also remove the last of the walls (it's not really all that much actually) if that makes it easier/better to drywall.

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Last edited by wilsonstark; 10-13-2011 at 09:19 AM. Reason: careless first draft
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Old 10-12-2011, 02:56 PM   #2
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Poll: Pull down or leave up?


I didn't quite follow what you were saying but it sounded like you are saying.g some of the seams in your sheetrock aren't on a stud. If that's what you mean than it will not work, if you can push on a seam and there is any movement at all, it won't work. Rather than buy new sheetrock, take down the sheets and add wood nailers, so that the sheet rock has something to screw to. You can also put pieces of plywood behind your seem so that both sheets can screw to it

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Old 10-12-2011, 03:14 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by jimmy21 View Post
I didn't quite follow what you were saying but it sounded like you are saying.g some of the seams in your sheetrock aren't on a stud. If that's what you mean than it will not work, if you can push on a seam and there is any movement at all, it won't work. Rather than buy new sheetrock, take down the sheets and add wood nailers, so that the sheet rock has something to screw to. You can also put pieces of plywood behind your seem so that both sheets can screw to it
Nope. I mean that there's spaces around the edges of the ceiling, so that when I hang the drywall on the wall studs they won't be pushing up against the ceiling drywall, but rather against the joists (in spots). Basically I can't do floating joints at the edges because the wall drywall and the ceiling drywall won't be touching.

I'd post a photo, but I'm at work. Maybe I can tonight...
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Old 10-12-2011, 03:45 PM   #4
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As long as there is no movement in the panels, it'll be okay. If you can push in the drywall at the seams you'll likely have problems down the road.
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Old 10-12-2011, 03:48 PM   #5
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As long as there is no movement in the panels, it'll be okay. If you can push in the drywall at the seams you'll likely have problems down the road.
I can screw the panels quite close to the edge, and the joists are 16" oc, so there's not much movement there. I was thinking that if I didn't replace them I might use a metal/paper or vinyl inside corner bead to give strength and bridge the gap?
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Old 10-12-2011, 10:52 PM   #6
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How big of a gap are we talking about? If there is no movement. I would just patch it. An easy way to do it is fill with expanding foam, then cut the foam flush, then tape and mud like normal
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Old 10-13-2011, 02:01 AM   #7
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If you find pictures helpful!

Also, if we're wanting to let me know what I did wrong, I'm guessing:

1. Assuming the corners were square was mistake number 1...
2. Trying to preserve a little bit of wall and trim was counter-productive
3. Once I knew it wasn't fitting, I should have stopped and measured WAY more carefully...

Last edited by wilsonstark; 10-13-2011 at 02:04 AM.
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:38 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by wilsonstark View Post


If you find pictures helpful!

Also, if we're wanting to let me know what I did wrong, I'm guessing:

1. Assuming the corners were square was mistake number 1...
2. Trying to preserve a little bit of wall and trim was counter-productive
3. Once I knew it wasn't fitting, I should have stopped and measured WAY more carefully...
Those are some pretty large gaps, id probably just mud it, but it would take some extra care. I like to put mesh tape and patch the gap with hot mud, if there is a gap like that. Then after it has dried use paper tape and mud it like you normally would. If the gap is just way too large, you could unscrew a panel and move it so that the gap is split between both sides. Gaps in flat areas are easier to patch than in corners. If its just too large of a gap you may need new pieces of sheet rock.

BTW. The proper way to do it is to sheet the lid first, then start from the top on the walls. That way you can just push the pieces tight to the lid. Then you just have small cuts against the floor that the trim covers. With a little practice, you won't have any gaps, anywhere
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:47 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by jimmy21 View Post
Those are some pretty large gaps, id probably just mud it, but it would take some extra care. I like to put mesh tape and patch the gap with hot mud, if there is a gap like that. Then after it has dried use paper tape and mud it like you normally would. If the gap is just way too large, you could unscrew a panel and move it so that the gap is split between both sides. Gaps in flat areas are easier to patch than in corners. If its just too large of a gap you may need new pieces of sheet rock.

BTW. The proper way to do it is to sheet the lid first, then start from the top on the walls. That way you can just push the pieces tight to the lid. Then you just have small cuts against the floor that the trim covers. With a little practice, you won't have any gaps, anywhere
Good advice, thanks. The room was damaged by water, and I'd wanted to save myself work by not taking out all the walls (including the brand new, professionally installed trim from last year), so the walls that are in place were pre-existing. I can totally understand why it's better to have no walls in place at all, and since there's only about 8 linear feet of wall left I'm thinking of just pulling that last bit of wall out, redoing the ceiling boards from scratch and then redoing the walls. May add a bit of extra work and cost, but if it spares me half-baked corner seams I imagine it'll be worth it?
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:56 AM   #10
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Depends on how good you are with mud. A lot of people I know need all the help they can get when it comes to mudding. Pulling it all down may be your best option, but id be lying if I said I would automatically pull it all down. It's your call. If you have time and money to pull it all down, then why not?

Have fun, and take your time. Getting rushed usually comes back on you in the end.
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:59 AM   #11
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Oh, and when I measure. I always measure from one corner and then the other corner. If the measurements are more than 1/4 off, ill measure the center to try to figure out what's going on.

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