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Old 01-05-2012, 09:21 AM   #1
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Please help me fix this cracked wall!


Hey guys,

Total rookie here, but I need to make a couple repairs before I move out of this place and don't have any friends IRL who can help with this sort of thing.

Here's a crack I put in the surface of the wall when a kitchen cart fell into the corner. I don't know the name of the material, but as you can see it's a white plastery uneven material with a medium gloss. Beneath that is some kind of metal corner that I hope I need to completely obscure, especially because it's bent up quite a bit.

Forgive my ignorance and feel free to correct me, and I'm sure I can get this done with some clear instructions!
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:58 AM   #2
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Please help me fix this cracked wall!


Not an easy fix, in order to fix the outside metal corner at a minmum it would need to be cut out at least 6", new piece installed, then drywall compound spead over the flaws. The last parts the hard part, that a knock down finish and next to imposiable to just patch and have it match.
The whole wall from floor to ceiling would have to be redone.
I'd suggest if you have never done this before to hire a drywall guy to do it. Most likly there going to suggest removing all of it and starting over which would be the best way.
If the texture was not on there it would be simple.

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Old 01-05-2012, 10:17 AM   #3
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I'll take a stab at this...

Hammer down the metal in the corner a bit. Pack mud over the whole works. After it dries, sand it flush, sand and reshape that 90-degree corner. Prime.

Lowes/Home Depot sell paintable textured wallpaper with that exact pattern. Slap some on, cut it to shape. Paint to match. Cross fingers and hope nobody notices before you move.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:38 AM   #4
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You don't need to cut the metal corner out, just bend the lip back carefully, sand the metal with 60 grit sand paper, so the mud will stick good, re-mud and shape the surface to match. It will still probably be noticeable no mater what you do though.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:47 AM   #5
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My experience with fixes like this is that fixing, mudding & smoothing it isn't going to be the problem. Matching the texture will be. As Joe said, were it not for the texture, this would be an easy fix. I'd sand down and/or skim coat both surfaces, floor to ceiling, and get the the knock-down to match as closely as possible.
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Old 01-05-2012, 10:53 AM   #6
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Good luck trying to bend that corner back in place. What's going to happen is it will pop off more material, there will be a hump there and it will end up crushing the sheetrock more under it.
A simple cut with a hack saw and using a replacement piece will leave a flat area to work from. Been there done that before.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:23 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Good luck trying to bend that corner back in place. What's going to happen is it will pop off more material, there will be a hump there and it will end up crushing the sheetrock more under it.
A simple cut with a hack saw and using a replacement piece will leave a flat area to work from. Been there done that before.
I have done it before with good results. Cutting the corner will leave a weak corner and all that will be holding at the joints will be mud.
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Old 01-05-2012, 03:12 PM   #8
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with JOE on this one.. not an easy quick fix.. and cutting the cornerbead will weaken it???? lots of screws .. will fix that! I would say mud both sides to get rid of the texture from top to floor if possible or ask to landlord if you were renting if just replacing the corner cut out and replace then refill leaving the texture aswell.

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Old 01-05-2012, 10:56 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the replies.

Is 'mud' joint compound? Sorry, I know that's about as simple a question as they come, but like I said, this isn't something I've talked with friends about, so I'm not up on any of the jargon.

Seems like I need to bend that corner bead, apply a few coats of joint compound, match the texture and paint.

Will I be able to match the texture with a sponge or some other tool?
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:12 PM   #10
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Yes, mud is joint compound. You can get gallon containers of it reasonable cheap. Also there is adhesive fiberglass tape which may help you mud the "new corner" which is probably the best way to go. Matching the texture will surely be the toughest part of the repair.
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Old 01-05-2012, 11:20 PM   #11
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Okay let's get this over with.

Do as suggested in Post #4.
Yes "mud" is "joint compound" and you will need to buy a one gallon tub of it. Use a six inch (wide) putty knife to apply and shape the joint compound. Your existing wall will guide your putty knife in a flat and straight manner. It will probably take you two or three applications of joint compound. Once everything is filled properly sand everything smooth and shape the filled corner area to match the rounded corner areas above and below.

Now,
Add some water and thin the joint compound slightly. Use a paint brush (the bigger the better) and get the brush soaked with joint compound and then dip the brush into the bucket and pick up plenty of joint compound. Then sharply fling the joint compound on the wall. Do it as often as you need to to cover the flat areas you have repaired.

Give it a few minutes then using your six inch putty knife lightly and carefully drag the putty knife over the wet/damp joint compound to flatten the surface to match the rest of the wall. Let it dry. Then use a damp sponge to blend whatever requires blending to the old texture.

You won't get a perfect match but you'll do good.

After the corner is repaired and formed this whole texturing thing is a four minute job.

If you screw up the texturing, scrape it off and do it again.
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:19 AM   #12
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Sure, it's inexpensive, and there's nothing wrong with having extra for future repairs, but you absolutely do not need to buy an entire gallon of compound.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:48 AM   #13
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Quote:
Sure, it's inexpensive, and there's nothing wrong with having extra for future repairs, but you absolutely do not need to buy an entire gallon of compound.
Jheeezh!!!

Jay, the sky is blue!
Care to argue about that now?
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:12 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by whatupdun View Post
Thanks for all the replies.

Is 'mud' joint compound? Sorry, I know that's about as simple a question as they come, but like I said, this isn't something I've talked with friends about, so I'm not up on any of the jargon.

Seems like I need to bend that corner bead, apply a few coats of joint compound, match the texture and paint.

Will I be able to match the texture with a sponge or some other tool?
You can go several ways - none of which are going to be perfect.


If it were my project, after filling in the damaged area, I'd sand down the texture on both surfaces - floor to ceiling - mask off the area, and spray on this knock down "texture in a can." You can get the stuff at Lowe's, HD, Menards, etc. It is stupidly expensive for the volume you get ($25), but the 2-pack should be more than enough for you.



You could also try what Bud suggested - flinging thinned mud with the paint brush. There's almost no chance you'll come close to matching the existing texture, but since you'll already have the mud, you're not out anything to try.

Another option would be to rent a texture hopper & compressor, and apply it like the big boys do. But that's just plain over-kill.


Remember that this is not an exact science. "Close" is probably as good as you're ever going to get it.

Last edited by DrHicks; 01-06-2012 at 09:15 AM.
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Old 01-06-2012, 01:38 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Sure, it's inexpensive, and there's nothing wrong with having extra for future repairs, but you absolutely do not need to buy an entire gallon of compound.

Where can you possible get less than 1 gallon?

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