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Old 03-22-2014, 11:53 PM   #1
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


Hi all, I'm a total rookie at this stuff so I'm hoping that someone can tell me if my plan of attack is good enough, or if I'm gonna make a mistake with something. Here's my plan:

I need to skim coat the ceiling and walls in my kitchen. Plaster walls that I just removed wallpaper from and a plaster ceiling with badly peeling paint on it. My plan is to try to wash off whatever wallpaper adhesive I can off the walls and scrape off as much of the peeling paint that I can from the ceiling. Then I was going to do a coat of Zinsser Peel Stop on the ceiling, wait a day for it to dry, then do a coat of the Roman Rx-35 over the Peel Stop on the ceiling, and on the walls. Then I was gonna do 2 skim coats of Durabond 90, then a final skim coat of all purpose joint compound. Then a coat of Benjamin Moore 253 primer, then whatever color my wife finally decides on.

Anyone notice any glaring mistakes (aside from thinking my wife is EVER gonna make a decision)? Thanks in advance.

BTW I was gonna use Gardz instead of the Rx-35 but I couldn't find it anywhere.

Also BTW, I put this post under the plaster section instead of the paint section because I'm more concerned about how the skim coat holds up with this plan of attack.

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Last edited by DaFish; 03-22-2014 at 11:57 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 03-23-2014, 05:08 AM   #2
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


Forget the rx-35, if you cannot get Gardz, use Zinsser's Cover Stain

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Old 03-23-2014, 07:40 AM   #3
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


Forget the skim coats with durabond 90. It's hard to work with, it's hard to sand, and would serve no purpose. OMG to do a ceiling with Dura bond makes me shiver. Just use the ultra light in the ugly green lid, not the bright green lid.
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Old 03-23-2014, 11:45 AM   #4
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


Thanks for the replies. Couple of questions though:

I thought the Cover Stain was for exactly what it's called, covering stains. I was gonna use the Rx-35 because I thought it would create a better bond for the skim coat. The Cover Stain does that better than the Rx? After all I'm hearing about the Gardz, if I gotta go out and get Cover Stain, I might as well try to find the Gardz one more time.

And as for the Durabond 90, I didn't exactly get that. What I got is an 18lb bag that says "Sheetrock Brand Joind Compound Lightwieght Setting-Type" and where it would say Durabond 90 it says Easy Sand 90. Is that better to use or is that still just another name for Durabond 90? And I got the regular bucket of Sheetrock All Purpose Joint Compound. I thought the first couple of coats had to be a little stronger (especially on my badly peeling ceiling), that's why I thought Durabond then joint compound.

I know I keep saying "I thought, I thought." I don't really think anything. My plan of attack is just what I came up with from scouring the internet and thought it would be good for my specific situation. I don't know the first thing about any of this stuff so I thank you guys for the advice.
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Old 03-23-2014, 04:43 PM   #5
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


Quote:
Originally Posted by DaFish View Post
Thanks for the replies. Couple of questions though:

I thought the Cover Stain was for exactly what it's called, covering stains. I was gonna use the Rx-35 because I thought it would create a better bond for the skim coat. The Cover Stain does that better than the Rx? After all I'm hearing about the Gardz, if I gotta go out and get Cover Stain, I might as well try to find the Gardz one more time.

And as for the Durabond 90, I didn't exactly get that. What I got is an 18lb bag that says "Sheetrock Brand Joind Compound Lightwieght Setting-Type" and where it would say Durabond 90 it says Easy Sand 90. Is that better to use or is that still just another name for Durabond 90? And I got the regular bucket of Sheetrock All Purpose Joint Compound. I thought the first couple of coats had to be a little stronger (especially on my badly peeling ceiling), that's why I thought Durabond then joint compound.

I know I keep saying "I thought, I thought." I don't really think anything. My plan of attack is just what I came up with from scouring the internet and thought it would be good for my specific situation. I don't know the first thing about any of this stuff so I thank you guys for the advice.
Stay away from the setting compound for this application it would be a nightmare. For a start 90 minutes sounds like a long time for a ceiling it is not. Setting compounds dry by a chemical reaction. That reaction starts when water hits it. Many things can alter the drying time such as the temperature of the water you mix it with, the ambient temp, the humidity just to name a few.
The texture would have to be the same throughout. Once it starts to get hard you can't just add water to thin it, as that will make it brittle. So will mixing it too thin to start, if it's too brittle it will be prone to cracking.
Adhesion for your skim will not be an issue. The green lid all purpose will work fine. The other green lid is just easier to sand.
You have told use what materials you are planning, but what about tools? I will make some suggestions.
To apply the mud for your skim use at least a 12" drywall knife or flat trowel.
If knife you can use a mud pan or hawk, if trowel use a hawk.
For your peel stop use a 4" roller to spot prime
Not sure you need Peel stop and gardz both.
You need a stand to work off of, to do it off a step ladder would take a long time and a lot of getting up and down.
You will need a paint pole so you can prime and sand from the floor.
You will need a drywall pole sander for the skim, electric sanders will make more dust than you can imagine.
Then you will need sanding screens, not sandpaper for the drywall mud sandpaper plugs up too quick.
You will need drop clothes and plastic to cover EVERYTHING.
Remember to turn heat/ac off or tape registers closed or you will have dust through the whole house.
You have picked a pretty hard, labor intensive job for your first. This is just the beginning list as I'm sure others will add to it or I forgot something.
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Old 03-23-2014, 05:43 PM   #6
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


The rx -34 and or Gardz is just to make sure the residual paste is being encapsulated, the Cover Stain will do just that, or any oil based primer for that matter. The 35 just does not do such a good job as it is intended to be a wall covering primer
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:12 PM   #7
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


Wow, you guys are awesome! OK, you talked me out of the Durabond and the Rx-35. I'll just use the All Purpose Joint Compound I have. Gonna put half in a seperate bucket, add about 4oz water to each bucket and mix before I use it. Then I'll try to find the Gardz. Thanks for the tips on the tools. I think the only thing I am gonna use different is I bought a 10" taping knife as opposed to a 12". Other than that it looks like I'm pretty set. Thanks again fellas.

I was gonna just do the peel stop over the entire ceiling. That a bad idea? I figured it would find its way into any cracks in whatever paint I don't scrape off.
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Old 03-24-2014, 03:27 AM   #8
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


I was gonna just do the peel stop over the entire ceiling.

can't hurt
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Old 03-24-2014, 09:22 AM   #9
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Peel Stop then Roman Rx-35?


Just as I suspected. Thanks.

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Last edited by DaFish; 03-24-2014 at 10:03 AM. Reason: made question a new topic
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