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Old 02-10-2014, 04:55 PM   #1
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Patching plaster walls

I've seen lots of techniques on patching drywall holes but was wondering the best way to approach lots of cutouts in plaster from our electrician re-wiring our home.

Should I screw lath pieces in to create a backer, then fill the holes with a setting compound and joint compound as a finish coat?

Others have suggested cutting out pieces of drywall to fit the holes and then a then taping/compound.

What is the ideal solution to match the original 70 year old plaster?

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Old 02-11-2014, 01:30 AM   #2
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Others have suggested cutting out pieces of drywall to fit the holes and then a then taping/compound.

This is what I have done. You probably still need to get a piece of wood( a heavy paint stir stick works) back behind to screw the drywall too.


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Old 02-11-2014, 01:45 AM   #3
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If your plaster is textured then you are screwed but of not, you can use a patch kit like this. It is a piece of wire screen and then you take joint compund and spread over it in thin layers - ssanding in between each layer. They make larger ones or you can cut down to size but you want to overlap the wall at least an inceh or two.

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Old 02-11-2014, 06:41 AM   #4
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From the look of wire behind every hole will have to be awful careful screwing anything in. I would use the patch shown or a hot patch (cali patch).
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Old 02-15-2014, 08:52 AM   #5
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Cali patch would be my suggestion. Fast quick and easy

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Old 02-15-2014, 10:25 AM   #6
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I wouldn't use any of those methods. They either build up the surface (not good if you're next to trim), or they give a relatively weak patch. As long as these are small (like 3X5 inches or so), I'll stuff fiberglass insulation through the hole to act as a backer. Then I'll make a fairly stiff mix of Durabond 45 or 90 using a 3:1 water to acrylic admix solution. You can find the admix in the concrete or tiling section most places. Stuff the stiff mix into the hole, and make sure NONE of it is higher than the surrounding surface. Check periodically to make sure it hasn't sagged to above the surrounding surface level - you'll have to carefully shave it off if it has. Once it sets, you aren't going to be able to sand it, so get it right.

Once the durabond patch has cured / dried, you can finish off with your choice of easy sand or bucket mud. This patch techniques doesn't need to be feathered out, so it works next to trim, places where cabinets are installed, etc.

Wipe excess durabond off from around the patch, and if you make a mistake and have to take some dried Durabond / admix off, use a 2-3" carbide scraper - you can scrape it down pretty smooth.


Last edited by eandjsdad; 02-15-2014 at 10:29 AM.
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