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Old 12-13-2011, 07:40 PM   #16
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Course thread 1-1/4. If you use drywall adhesive you can use less screws.
You should insulate before the drywall goes in.

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Old 12-13-2011, 07:44 PM   #17
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thanks so much for the quick replies guys. so whats the corner bead stuff then? how do you hang it so the ceiling drywall is flush with the existing wall?
what's the argument for glue? the pic is bad but we did spray foam so it's insulated that way
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Old 12-13-2011, 07:47 PM   #18
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thanks so much for the quick replies guys. so whats the corner bead stuff then? how do you hang it so the ceiling drywall is flush with the existing wall?
what's the argument for glue? the pic is bad but we did spray foam so it's insulated that way
Like Joe says, glue is an (messy) option but not necessary. I prefer to rely on more screws so you know the rock is sucked up tight to the joists. I don't know what you mean by flush with existing wall. Just butt the lid tight to the walls.

Last edited by titanoman; 12-13-2011 at 07:56 PM.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:02 PM   #19
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Like Joe says, glue is an (messy) option but not necessary. I prefer to rely on more screws so you know the rock is sucked up tight to the joists. I don't know what you mean by flush with existing wall. Just butt the lid tight to the walls.
thanks. i rather keep it less messy too, so no glue. so i dont need a furring strip; i can just screw right to teh joists. so for the drywall edge touching the wall i can just put it right up against it.

edit-how many screws should i do per sheet
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:04 PM   #20
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thanks. i rather keep it less messy too, so no glue. so i dont need a furring strip; i can just screw right to teh joists. so for the drywall edge touching the wall i can just put it right up against it.

edit-how many screws should i do per sheet
You got it. I think code calls for 5 screws in each joist.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:05 PM   #21
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There should be no mess, the glue goes on the rafters. It makes the ceiling 25% stronger and less likly to have screw pops and cracks.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:07 PM   #22
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There should be no mess, the glue goes on the rafters. It makes the ceiling 25% stronger and less likly to have screw pops and cracks.
It starts on the rafters, ends up on the walls, tools, clothes. Code doesn't call for it. And screws don't pop like nails.
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:15 PM   #23
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hehe well maybe i will use a little bit of glue and not too much. is that a good compromise?

so $70/sheet is way too expensive right to hang and finish right
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:20 PM   #24
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what if the seam of a sheet isnt center on the joist?
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Old 12-13-2011, 08:20 PM   #25
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hehe well maybe i will use a little bit of glue and not too much. is that a good compromise?

so $70/sheet is way too expensive right to hang and finish right
Good compromise. And way too expensive.
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Old 12-14-2011, 02:47 PM   #26
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first of all, there is no! the seam of a sheet isn't center on the joist? the sheets are cut so they do break on center of joists! it can't be finished properly, if ends are just flopping in the air. will be one nasty joint if it is.

you really need to use glue and nails or screws. every 6-8 inches. if screwing? countersink screws without breaking through the paper! if nailing? use regular drywall hammer and countersink with divot but do not break through paper. the paper is all that holds, also just dent gypsum, do not crush between papers.
corner bead, is only used on outside square corners. and it's not the paper's job to install corner beads. paper tape is always used on inside corners, no metal there. angled corners must be strait to finish straight! no corner beads there, corner beads just don't flex onto those angles. if you want to try metal corner beads on angles? I suggest putting a 6" piece of bead behind each joint of bead to keep them uniform as well at corners over the length of the corner bead.

you might find a taper who'll use paper bead on angled corners? I don't recommend it! unless angled corner is exactly straight? the bead will follow the contour of the angle. the corner strip bends, the paper wrinkles. if there is a dip or crown on the corner the tape is going to follow Wat is there.

projects can only be finished as well as it's hung! even the best of finishers can only do so much

$70 a sheet does seem quite high at least in my area. with the economy, who knows?

simply put, don't expect to get better results in a job, than the effort you put into the job to make it right to start with!

as always, just my thoughts

good luck

coupe/Larry
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Old 12-15-2011, 04:32 PM   #27
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I would use glue - good ole cheap drywall adhesive. Ive done it with glue and without glue. The glued ones hold up better, less cracking etc. The only place I maybe would not use glue are areas that have a high chance of getting wet and requiring patch repair. A ceiling below a bathroom for example.
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Old 12-15-2011, 06:11 PM   #28
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If you are trying to save money I would suggest having a pro take over for you at this point. From the questions so far I see a very long thread on this one not trying to be rude.
If you want to drywall it then you need to straightedge the ceiling like mentioned, on a lid I don't like anything more then 1/8" in 10', use 5/8" drywall, screws, tight joints, before tape make sure you have aflat lid. It looks like plaster on the walls, what is your plan for the transition?
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:08 PM   #29
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thank you everyone for your input. i really appreciate it.

so yea here's the thing.

havalife-you are absolutely right. iknow nothing about drywall. nothing. so we did hire a remodeling guy but 1. hes charging 70/sheet and 2. he is insisting on using 1/2in. drywall.

so to clarify: this is for ceiling upstairs right beneath the roof. is 1/2in ok, or is 5/8th still recommended??? would appreciate insight here.

Last edited by federer; 12-15-2011 at 11:13 PM.
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Old 12-15-2011, 11:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe View Post
first of all, there is no! the seam of a sheet isn't center on the joist? the sheets are cut so they do break on center of joists! it can't be finished properly, if ends are just flopping in the air. will be one nasty joint if it is.

you really need to use glue and nails or screws. every 6-8 inches. if screwing? countersink screws without breaking through the paper! if nailing? use regular drywall hammer and countersink with divot but do not break through paper. the paper is all that holds, also just dent gypsum, do not crush between papers.
corner bead, is only used on outside square corners. and it's not the paper's job to install corner beads. paper tape is always used on inside corners, no metal there. angled corners must be strait to finish straight! no corner beads there, corner beads just don't flex onto those angles. if you want to try metal corner beads on angles? I suggest putting a 6" piece of bead behind each joint of bead to keep them uniform as well at corners over the length of the corner bead.

you might find a taper who'll use paper bead on angled corners? I don't recommend it! unless angled corner is exactly straight? the bead will follow the contour of the angle. the corner strip bends, the paper wrinkles. if there is a dip or crown on the corner the tape is going to follow Wat is there.

projects can only be finished as well as it's hung! even the best of finishers can only do so much

$70 a sheet does seem quite high at least in my area. with the economy, who knows?

simply put, don't expect to get better results in a job, than the effort you put into the job to make it right to start with!

as always, just my thoughts

good luck

coupe/Larry
thanks Larry
yea that makes sense they need be cut so they are all on center.

now the other stuff i am confused on. can you please explain what corner bead is exactly? that's the corner edges that meet for ceiling and wall right? and what does it do? also, what is paper bead?and outside corner? thank you! i know i am asking all the noob questions here

i am in DC metro area; i guess everythig is more expensive here including drywall

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