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Old 02-23-2013, 11:31 AM   #31
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New Project First Timer on Dry-Wall


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Point is for about $12
A five gallon pail of mud IS super cheap, that is for sure.

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Old 02-23-2013, 02:06 PM   #32
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New Project First Timer on Dry-Wall


buy a small box/bag of sheetrock(easy sand) 20 its about $5-10.
buy a box of green mud $15 it has adhesive in it for bonding the tape.
then i buy lafarge rapid coat for my 2nd and 3rd because its very smooth, dries fast and very easy to sand. its $15 here.
so $35-40 for mud.
you can totally use the green for everything but the prefill but its soupy, heavy, is more difficult to use for a diyer you'll be covered in it and its harder so sand.
so for the extra $15 i feel its well worth avoiding a headache and lets face it most people hate doing drywall especially diyers so whatever you can do to make life easier then i say do it.
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:26 PM   #33
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So the first coat of mud to tape should not be with Green Lid mud? I too was going this rout , My contractor left 2 bags with about 1/4 full of one 45 and other 90 min. dry time could I mix this up to use?
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:19 PM   #34
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So the first coat of mud to tape should not be with Green Lid mud? I too was going this rout , My contractor left 2 bags with about 1/4 full of one 45 and other 90 min. dry time could I mix this up to use?
Yes A few things to keep in mind. if you use warm water to mix with it speeds up the set time. I guess I should have asked this first are the bags brown or white? If they are brown I would advise against using them because they must be put on smooth as it is non sandable so for a first timer don't try it. If they are the white bags yes you can use them as they are sandable and more forgiving. There are some other things you should know. do not mix it real thin this will weaken it. Once it starts to get stiff in your pan throw it out and mix more do not add more water. Between batches clean all your tools and mud pan, this stuff sets by a chemical reaction so once it starts and you don't clean everything the old stuff in the pan will start the reaction in your new mix.
Hope this helps.
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Old 02-23-2013, 06:42 PM   #35
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yup i prefill with sheetrock 20,45,90 will do the trick
then i use the green to bed the tape so technically i do 4 coats
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:02 PM   #36
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Do you apply a coat of mud on one side then apply the tape fold in half and apply the coat on the other side then the usual 3 coats ?
Should a 10" and a 4" knife be ok to use for my mud?

I use a 4" paint brush to coat both sides at once, use 4" knife for inside corners. prefold all corner tape, so can just grab a piece and go. make sure all gaps are full of mud as shrinks when drying if over 1/4" cracks? run a couple screws into stud before filling, this gives mud something to lock to keep from cracking and falling out. run your knife along good straight side first not too much angle on knife, keep knife edge tight to drywall, an angle will go into any gaps leaving crooked corner. you can usually get by with two coats on inside corners, I always do three. I use a 6" knife for all joints taping, a 15" concave trowel for second and third coats if need to go wider? I feather out with a 12" flat trowel I work with a hawk not a pan, after first bedding tape. I always use paper tape never mesh, never paper on outside corners at all only full metal and I tape those a nail in every nail hole. never sand between coats a damp sponge mop will take down high spots and fill in low spots at same time, never so wet as to wet the drywall paper. after dry and sanding, sweep/wipe all remaining dust off. it's normal to see most joints and mud lines until paint dries fully of first coat of paint
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:28 PM   #37
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i've never hear of anybody using a paint brush for any kind of drywall mudding other then dusting.
they make "Q tip" rollers for inside corners but i dont do alot of big job and just use a 3-4" knife.
then i coat one side of the corner with a 1" larger knife. when the corner dries i coat the other side of the corner.
all you really need to accomplish is filling the thickness of the paperand that really only takes 2-3" to skim.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:49 PM   #38
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I've been doing drywall since 1968 and picked up the paintbrush tip from the guy who taught me. it coats both sides at once no going back for other side time= money going in circles takes time making no progress! stick with your3"and 4" knife if you wish as my signature says "just my thoughts"
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Old 02-24-2013, 07:14 AM   #39
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i do alot of smaller jobs where theres no point in getting certain tools messy. if i am doing a bigger job i'll use the Q tip roller on my paint pole just dunk it in the mud and roll it in the corner which gives me alot less ladder time and can go much farther then with a knife. i'll try your paint brush trick. will a 3" angled brush do the trick or do i need one of those big nasty wide brushes more less a broom?
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Old 02-24-2013, 10:00 AM   #40
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here's only one http://www.walmart.com/ip/Hyde-Tools...-Each/22594773 and a nail in every hole. And if the crack is 1/4" or bigger it needs hot (setting mud, not drying mud) for fill. I also use a hawk and trowel, used knife and pan for years, would not go back. They now say a nail in every hole will pull the corner bead out of line. This is how I have been doing it for years now. I mix up 20 minute easy sand, for someone new I would say 45 or 90 minute. Use this for a fill coat, make it smooth as you can. After it sets sand down any ridges or high spots, it's OK to use a rough sanding screen here because of the next coat will fill sanding marks. Now because you used the hot mud the same day you can go back and tape. Take some mud from your bucket and thin it where it's a little thicker than paint, dip the roller and apply to corner, crease your paper tape down the center line and apply. Then take a 5 or 6" knife and remove access from both sides. Let completely dry then sand or sponge any ridges or high spots. Let me say here that a mistake a lot of newbies make is they leave too much mud on the tape, it's OK to see the tape after you pull the mud off. For the second coat for someone new I recommend doing 1 side at a time and make sure it is dry before doing the other side, so I would not use the roller. This method is also what I use for when the wall meets the ceiling. Hope this helps someone out there. This is just my way there are probably many others.

Last edited by Gary in WA; 02-24-2013 at 10:59 AM. Reason: removed comment per forum rules.
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Old 03-01-2013, 03:39 PM   #41
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Well just got my Dry-Wall Jack delivered and was simple to put together with out no tools . Got my mud pans, 6" and 12" knifes , sanding disk and blocks , Dry-Wall Kicker, Dry-Wall Screw's and Bit's and just got to pick up some tape and mud and should be all set for my project.
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:40 PM   #42
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you got a key hole saw for outlets? and good luck! tell us how it goes
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Old 03-01-2013, 05:55 PM   #43
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Can a Dremel be use to cut dry-wall for outlets and light , I do have a
Dry-Wall Saw
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Old 03-01-2013, 08:17 PM   #44
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yes a dremel can but they dont like drywall dust and will eventually burn out
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Old 03-02-2013, 08:27 AM   #45
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Wow,reading some of the replies if your not a taper maybe would be best not to give advice even with the best intentions. Pre-mix mud or dry powder- ok the mud you have to mix that is in a bag has a particular job it is fast setting mud comes in 20minute 30 45 90 120 its good say on cold wet day or for filling gaps in the rock called back filling and you use for just taping joints it is very hard to sand and is very gritty makes a bad looking finish thats why there is topping compound (pre mixed) the last coat to top joints,nail rows it spreads easy and super easy to sand good for skim coats and puddy coating but overnight dry time do not use for taping it will fail- all purpose joint compound is also pre mixed and you use this for "embedding tape" you can also use it to top joints and you can use it for texture that is why its called all purpose also you can use forced air or fans to dry out the mud- as for tape use the yellow mesh tape on bigger gaps or gaps you can use on any joint but paper will flex and holds back stress cracks better - I like paper tape and i use this most times submerge the paper tape in water no joke it has tiny holes in it and the holes open up more when wet you can see the mud pass thru all the tiny little perforations- 3 coats minimum are need to level out and give a smooth appearance start with either a 6" or 4" broad knife then go wider like 8" 10" knife even 14" on non factory joints- apply mud push in tape hold 1 end up a lil so it wont wrinkle now wipe off almost all the mud -remember it is easier to do light skim coats then to sand - taping is a skilled trade and takes many years of doing it to make all the joints and flaws go away (sorry for the long msg lol)
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