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Old 02-18-2013, 01:57 PM   #16
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New Project First Timer on Dry-Wall


The paper mesh was for the seams , Trying to find out what is best for inside corners and was planning on going with belly band with the 4x12 my length of my room is 11' 5"

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Old 02-18-2013, 02:26 PM   #17
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OK for inside corners you can use the NO-Coat 325 a little pricey but easy to use or just use regular paper tape, then you can use it on your flats to there is no advantage to mesh tape. You are going to be trying something pretty hard with a belly band. But if that's what you want when you use 1/2" for the top and bottom your belly band should be 3/8" if not you will end up with a big hump. Either way it's hard to tape. If you can take that drywall back and get 54" then you end up with 1 factory seam down the middle. Easy to mud. On the outside corners I like the vinyl bead or you can use metal or the metal covered with paper.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:30 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Beepster View Post
To jump in and offer a question to the pros: do you always use the paper tape on the inner corners?

What about the outer corners? Do you always use the metalic corner piece, or do you sometimes just use paper tape if it is unlikely to be bumped (soffit edge)?

B
Always paper tape. For out side corners I use products from this company.
http://trim-tex.com/index.php
best of luck

Last edited by Nailbags; 02-19-2013 at 02:51 AM.
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Old 02-19-2013, 02:32 AM   #19
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The paper mesh was for the seams , Trying to find out what is best for inside corners and was planning on going with belly band with the 4x12 my length of my room is 11' 5"
I would go with 54" wide and just have one seam to mud and tape.
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Old 02-19-2013, 11:22 AM   #20
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I have no outside corners only insides in my room, Had to cancel the drywall delivery due to snow and bad driveway . Will post pic's of room before applying drywall and after. Have a question thou , When inspector came in he had us put fire proof plastic over the insulation with the paper cover . He said to remove the plastic when we drywall the room because then there will be 2 fire barriers behind the drywall can I leave the ceiling on encase of water leaking from the roof
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Old 02-20-2013, 01:18 AM   #21
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I have no outside corners only insides in my room, Had to cancel the drywall delivery due to snow and bad driveway . Will post pic's of room before applying drywall and after. Have a question thou , When inspector came in he had us put fire proof plastic over the insulation with the paper cover . He said to remove the plastic when we drywall the room because then there will be 2 fire barriers behind the drywall can I leave the ceiling on encase of water leaking from the roof
NO want your whole darn ceiling to Collapse on you? having a leak in the ceiling and finding a wet spot early is a good thing. Blocking it and then the weight of the water or mold growth, or a number of things can go wrong fast if you do that.
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Old 02-20-2013, 07:01 PM   #22
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Ok thanks!, will remove all plastic then.

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Old 02-20-2013, 08:49 PM   #23
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for building code here we need a 6mm vapour barrier between insulation and drywall. i've never heard of a "fire proof plastic" before, kind of doesn't make sense to me.
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Old 02-21-2013, 11:48 AM   #24
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for building code here we need a 6mm vapour barrier between insulation and drywall. i've never heard of a "fire proof plastic" before, kind of doesn't make sense to me.
For the very cold climates you need to have that for the more normal not still getting out of the ice age area's of the world most places say two coats of PVA primer is a good enough vapor retarder.
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Old 02-21-2013, 02:22 PM   #25
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for building code here we need a 6mm vapour barrier between insulation and drywall. i've never heard of a "fire proof plastic" before, kind of doesn't make sense to me.
Yes we were force to have our contractor put it on after he insulated the wall with paper face insulation since we did not have drywall up, he said a fire barrier plastic rated had to be in place until we drywall and remove it before the drywall gets put on. And yes the plastic is 6mil fire retardant had to tape the info on the wall so he can see that it was so we could get a past.
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:25 PM   #26
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I bought a New Drywall Jack for $139. free shipping , Could not pass a good deal beside my mud room , I have a whole basement to finish up starting this summer. Just got my delivery of 15 4x12 drywall ultra lites
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Old 02-21-2013, 09:53 PM   #27
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1. prefill any gaps that are 1/4" and larger with powdered setting compound (20,45,90)
2.apply paper tape with green lid bucket mud(it has an adhesive and your tape will also suck in)with a 4-6" taping knife
3. apply 2nd coat with a 10"knife using a premixed compound (blue lid, red lid, etc.)
I am just doing 30' and will probably never drywall again.
Do I have to get two kinds of mud?
I don't want to do it wrong, but don't want to end up with two nearly full buckets either.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:30 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Toller View Post
I am just doing 30' and will probably never drywall again.
Do I have to get two kinds of mud?
I don't want to do it wrong, but don't want to end up with two nearly full buckets either.
No you can do it all with the green lid. Call your local drywall suppliers see if they carry a product from Trim Tex called Mud Max if they do add the amount they say to your first coat-not to the whole bucket. This will give your first coat a lot of strength. Do not add to the whole bucket because it makes it hard to sand. For your 2nd and 3rd coats add some water to your mud and mix this will make it creamy and a lot easier to work.
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Old 02-23-2013, 09:27 AM   #29
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I just did a full basement with just the green lid and no additives (other than water for thinning). I am not saying the above advice given is incorrect and I would probably use it if I drywalled more than once every five years. One thing that gets overlooked is that DIYers usually just shop at the big box stores and don't seek out the specialty stores.

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Old 02-23-2013, 11:15 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Beepster View Post
I just did a full basement with just the green lid and no additives (other than water for thinning). I am not saying the above advice given is incorrect and I would probably use it if I drywalled more than once every five years. One thing that gets overlooked is that DIYers usually just shop at the big box stores and don't seek out the specialty stores.

B
You are right a lot of people just use the green lid, some just use the blue lid and they get away with it. But the thing is your first coat is the most important one it is your fill coat and DIY cuts sometimes leave more than they should for fill. If it is too big the odds for cracking are much greater, if there is any movement. This may not show up for a couple years, if your real lucky maybe never. Point is for about $12 I think it is you can put the odds more in your favor. But no you don't have to use it.

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