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Old 12-18-2008, 11:04 AM   #16
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New Drywall Installation, 1 joint screws are popping


Issue #1 - I have never done this before and no that it is not ideal but does this have anything to do with the problem?

Issue #2 - So best solution is to bring the board down, shim the joist, and put a new board up I am guessing. My solution of stubbing a 2x4 into the joist will give me more meat to screw into but may end up pulling the screws out as well eventually because of the tension in the board.

It usually is the more difficult solution to do it right...

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Old 12-18-2008, 01:49 PM   #17
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New Drywall Installation, 1 joint screws are popping


Atlantic has it nailed!
You should try to use the green board in your bathroom everywhere, not just over the tub, as it is the water resistant variety. And the dip in picture no. 3 looks like it may be more than the 1/8" difference in the thickness of the drywall, indeed indicating that your joists are slightly mis-aligned.
This is not uncommon, and my earlier suggestion of strapping your ceiling may go a long way to improving how flat the ceiling will be.
Good luck with this.
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Old 12-22-2008, 03:44 PM   #18
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New Drywall Installation, 1 joint screws are popping


I think that running the drywall parrallel with the 24" oc joists and attaching through the factory edge could also cause the 5/8" to do that. For the most part you should alway's try to install drywall perpendicular to the framing. IMO
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Old 12-22-2008, 09:15 PM   #19
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100% correct. I hadn't noticed if the board was parallel to or across the joists.
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Old 12-23-2008, 10:23 AM   #20
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The drywall was installed parrallel to the joists. Another thing that I am concerned about is the amount of insulation loading above the drywall. I discussed with a few others locally here and it seems the best solution may be to put another layer of drywall over the first layer. This would eliminate the problem of the insulation loading on the new sheets. ANyone have any comments on this? If I do this, does it have to be 5/8" again or is 1/2" sufficient? I was thinking that I would shift the joints 1 joist so the factory edge joints would be on the opposite joists then (still running parrallel to joists). Should I hang the boards in the perpendicular direction now then? If so, that leaves your factory edge with very minimal screws in it (only at the 24" center joists) Won't that be insufficient to get a solid tape joint to hold?
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Old 12-23-2008, 05:06 PM   #21
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Every little bit of information helps. OK, the drywall should be running across the ceiling joists, not parallel to.
Now we learn that you have insulation above the drywall. That's not a problem in and of itself, but you do need a vapour barrier between the warm side and the insulation. Install a 6 mil poly vapour barrier, as carefully as you possibly can. This will alleviate any concern you might have about any weight resting on the drywall. Actually, this weight would be minimal in any event.
The insulation should be a press fit between the ceiling joists, and should support itself.
I don't know how cold your area gets, but a minimum of R-28 should be in your ceiling. More if there is room. Insulation is the one thing in a building that doesn't cost - it pays!
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Old 12-23-2008, 09:32 PM   #22
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Zjowens, Here's a good resource. Click here
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Old 12-23-2008, 09:37 PM   #23
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This one's a good one too. Clicky
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:41 AM   #24
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New Drywall Installation, 1 joint screws are popping


Sir Mixalot - thanks for the resources. So looks like I screwed up. 5/8 as a single layer should only be installed perpendicular, not parallel. So, best option is to put up a face layer of 1/2" over the 5/8 with adhesive. Looks like I can do either parallel or perpendicular for that layer. Will most likely stay with parallel and offset the joints. Hopeully this will give me a clean joint to finish. Thanks for the help and Merry Christmas!
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:45 AM   #25
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cocobolo - thanks for the reply. I did install a new vapor barrier over the old one before I put the new sheetrock up. Unfortunately the insulation still dippeed down because of all the rustling we did in the attic. I have 6" of rolled fiberglass inbetween the joists and the another 12-18" of blown in on top of that so there is some loading on the sheetrock. Looks like I should have just installed the 5/8 perpendicular to joist and I would have most likely not had this issue. Now I will jsut install a 1/2" face layer over the 5/8 and hopefully be good to go.
Thanks again for the responses and Merry Christmas
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Old 12-24-2008, 09:10 PM   #26
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Merry Christmas to you too! And a Happy New Year!!
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Old 01-01-2009, 05:38 PM   #27
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New Drywall Installation, 1 joint screws are popping


Actually, it would be much better to remove it all and start over. You have vapor barrier issues, joist issues, drywall hanging issues, and green board issues. Too many to cover with paint. Your fix of adding another layer will add electrical code issues.

I will make the assumption that you are not putting tile on the green board as it is not longer acceptable to do that by the mfg and code. If I am wrong, then there is that issue as well.

Pile the insulation in the attic space to the side, remove all the drywall, install vapor barrier and use a straight edge to put up strapping on 16 centers. Adjust all electrical elements to the correct height and then drywall with 5/8 drywall.
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Old 01-01-2009, 07:44 PM   #28
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kgphoto:
I think many of your codes in the US are different from here in Canada. Are you not allowed to tile greenboard at all? Even on a vertical wall? Or am I misunderstanding you? Thanks.
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Old 01-01-2009, 07:55 PM   #29
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While I think many of our codes do differ, I am in LA, a very strict place, I think most of them should be close.

The MFG of the green board says it is no longer recommended for use as a tile backer in wet areas, ie bath tub surrounds and showers.

Our code, says to use a product contrary to mfg, recommendations is against code. Also, if there are two conflicting parts of code, the more restrictive applies.

To use it on a ceiling, you would have to frame at 12 inch on centers, and even then, we don't use it on shower ceilings if it is to be painted, because it really doesn't perform well. One soaking and it delaminates, whereas type X can take a few.
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Old 01-02-2009, 12:26 AM   #30
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Thank you for that. Maybe it's a good thing that I don't have ANY kind of drywall in the shower I am just installing.
If I can ever find the time I hope to start a thread on the house I am finally getting toward the end of.

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