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Old 08-15-2013, 07:08 PM   #1
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Need some water damage repair advice


Hello everyone. The roof in our house had some leaks in random spots and unfortunately caused some damaged to the drywall inside the master bedroom and the living room. The roof was replaced about a year ago. I just recently took ownership of the house and now I need to get these rooms repaired so I can move into them. I was kinda hoping I could do the repairs and painting myself and save money since I'm on a budget here and need to do some floors as well.

In the first two pictures you can see the drywall separated where I am guessing is the taped seam and you can see the tape a bit far down in the second picture. What would the best way to tackle this be? Would I just be cutting out a square and putting up a new piece and mud? As for the third picture, the paint on the corner of the wall and under the molding is all bubbled, yet I don't see any signs of water stains which seems weird?

The rest of the pictures are in the living room. In the first one you can see a small bulge in the wall at the very top, but more importantly the whole wall really looks to be warped. Will all of the drywall need replacing here? Makes me wonder if there could be any mold inside the wall. There is one more spot in the living room with damage in the next post.

Thanks for any advice.
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:10 PM   #2
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Need some water damage repair advice


Here is another spot in the living room ceiling with three "circles" and you can see some discoloring off to the back/left of the furthest dot. I could probably put my finger right through these, so I'm guessing another cut out and patch would be necessary here too?
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:34 PM   #3
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Need some water damage repair advice


I would first get up on the roof and look at it. If you dont see a new roof or if you see anything odd post pics.
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Old 08-15-2013, 10:46 PM   #4
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First--strip off the loose tape ---then push on the sheets and see if they need more screws---or if the sheets are bagged or weak and need replacing---

If the sheets are good and still tight--retape the seams---

The wall corner with the sagging paint---the water desolved the drywall mud under that paint--so scrape off the paint and weakened mud--prime with Gardz--then retape and mud the corners---

The round rusty spots are nails or screw---if the drywall is still sound--scrape the mud--prime--then retape---

Your crown is a wreck---I suggest you replace that---you might be able to renail it,but it will always look wavy---

Use All Purpose for the initial coats and tape setting--it contains glue and will bond well to the old work.

Switch to Light Weight for the last coat or two--it is softer and easier to sand---Mike---
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Old 08-16-2013, 07:45 PM   #5
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i think your looking at the tip of an iceberg. i bet theres wet insulation thats been festering for a year now with mold and all that good stuff. i'd go up in your attic check out the insulation and shovel arund to see the back side of the drywall. i bet a section of drywall will/should be replaced and the water ran for quite a distance. when corners get wet they typically dont dry out very good. your probably gooing to have to cut out the section and such the insulation. you can peel and scrap the loose stuff and give it a skim and a paint but thats just a quick cover up.
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:26 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyWRS View Post
I would first get up on the roof and look at it. If you dont see a new roof or if you see anything odd post pics.
The leaks were as a result of the old roof. Once it was replaced all the leaks stopped. We just never got around to doing the interior repairs.

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i think your looking at the tip of an iceberg. i bet theres wet insulation thats been festering for a year now with mold and all that good stuff. i'd go up in your attic check out the insulation and shovel arund to see the back side of the drywall. i bet a section of drywall will/should be replaced and the water ran for quite a distance. when corners get wet they typically dont dry out very good. your probably gooing to have to cut out the section and such the insulation. you can peel and scrap the loose stuff and give it a skim and a paint but thats just a quick cover up.
I plan to look at the top on the living room side but the bedroom (first three pics), well that's a bit of an issue. Realistically I would have to rip out all the drywall in the ceiling to see it well. That bedroom used to be a screen porch and was an add-on to the house after it was initially built and eventually it was turned into a bedroom. The roof is a very low pitch. You can see in the pic here the little gap directly in the center of the pic, well that is the attic portion of the bedroom. Not exactly going fit in there! I see there was these pink foam channels attached to the roof (you can see them on the left) so I'm guessing the water was dripping onto those and sliding down into that corner.

@oh'mike, thanks for the tips.
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:37 PM   #7
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Frank - Just making sure the roof is not a issue prior to fixing it all. It would be quite a bummer to fix it all and then have it leak on the new work.
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Old 08-16-2013, 08:42 PM   #8
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Frank - Just making sure the roof is not a issue prior to fixing it all. It would be quite a bummer to fix it all and then have it leak on the new work.
Yeah that certainly wouldn't be fun at all. It's a small house but there was actually quite a bit of roof needed to be replaced down to the plywood itself on a big portion of the house beacuse it was all no good. I'm definitely glad that part is done.
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Old 08-18-2013, 05:54 PM   #9
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Well I moved some furniture today and figured I'd at least just get something started. I scraped out all the loose paint on the corner of the bedroom and surprisingly enough the tape in the corner was still very much in place. Of course I just peeled it out anyway.

@mike (or anyone for that matter), I started to sand it a bit, can I just keep sanding the old mud smooth then just re mud it? You said prime with Gardz, would I do that first and then mud with the all purpose, tape, then a final coat of mud? What's the best way to handle the "edges" of the old paint? I can feel the layer of paint on top of the drywall and can even just keep scraping it off. I don't want the edge of the old paint to peel up the new eventually. Just keep sanding there until smooth?

As far as the ceiling, I'm not really sure what to make of it. I just peeled off some of the tape for now (as far as I got for today) and the drywall was sagging down a bit since the screws weren't even holding the drywall up anymore. I suppose I can try adding new screws nearby where the old one's were and see if it stays up. The ceiling may be something I just end up having done by someone.
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Old 08-18-2013, 08:09 PM   #10
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Use a 6" blade to scrape off any loos paint--

The Gardz will stabilize the soft drywall mud and also help bond the paint at the edge of the scraping.----

Your new mud will extend well past the paint--so that thick paint edge will be buried.

If the ceiling is bagged--you could add a lot more screws and see if it will pull flat---if not, call in the troops and remove the ceiling.

By the way---the attic insulation might be upside down---vapor barrier goes to the heated space.
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Old 08-18-2013, 09:09 PM   #11
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I would suggest hot mud (powder that is mixed with water) for the coat that you put the tape on. Use the white and blue bag easy sand not the brown bag stuff. Also use it for your first coat and use paper tape. The reason for this product is it dries a lot stronger than just mud.
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Old 08-19-2013, 07:14 AM   #12
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I am sorry...perhaps my 11 year old self is coming out but something about the term "hot mud" makes me giggle.

All the other recommendations are spot on.

Cut it back, make sure it is fully dried. Remove the insulation from the top side and I would go ahead and plan on treating those areas with a mildewicide as well.
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Old 08-19-2013, 09:27 PM   #13
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By the way---the attic insulation might be upside down---vapor barrier goes to the heated space.
Interesting to know. God only knows how long it's been like that. This house was built in the late 40s-ish. I even found some nice tiny black and white pictures from that bedroom being added on! (My grandfather actually built this house himself)

Thank you all for the recommendations and advice. I have to make a trip to the store and hunt down everything I'll need. I'm heading to FL next week so probably going to be a while before I get time to do much more. I will see how brave I get and maybe attempt to cut out and replace the effected portion of the ceiling myself. I'm not sure adding screws "behind" the old holes will be sufficient enough being the ceiling joists are going in the opposite direction of that seam I can't just place a bunch of screws along the edge of the seam.

I have to imagine there could possibly be some mold up there too so might be worth the inspection anyway. I wish I could just see it from above but it's just too tight to get in there. It's most likely all dry (from what I can tell so far) being over a year since the roof was replaced, plus with the heat waves this summer and Hurricane Sandy taking out my central air unit, inside the house got pretty hot. I can't imagine how hot it was in the attic!

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