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-   -   Need Some Advice on Dry walling before I mess up(Pictures) (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/need-some-advice-dry-walling-before-i-mess-up-pictures-61423/)

K.M.G 01-09-2010 06:34 PM

Need Some Advice on Dry walling before I mess up(Pictures)
 
Hi:)

I'm Dry walling my Ceiling above my Bathtub and need some advice before I go any further so I don't mess it up.

What I've done so far


I have applied the Drywall Tape to the seem and squeezed the mud out and tried to fill the screw holes.

Everything is Dry now:)

Should I just apply a thin layer of mud over everything and move on

Or should I sand what I've done with the 120-150 Grit Screen to smooth it out before i re-mud everything again.

What do i do about the Corner Bead,Does mud need to be underneath before I screw it,into place.


Here are some pictures
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/P1050778.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/P1050783.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/P1050782.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/1cavy/P1050781.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12...P1050778-1.jpg

Thanks:thumbsup:

jlhaslip 01-09-2010 07:46 PM

No mud under the outside corners bead. Just on top after the bead has been installed.

Those inside corners use paper tape similar to what you have on the flats, same tape, but folded to a 90 degrees bend lengthwise.
Application is the same way, place mud in the corner and use your tape trowel (knife) to smooth it out.

beerdog 01-09-2010 08:02 PM

You still have some work ot do to make the joints painatble. You need at least 2 more coats....maybe 3.

-lightly sand what you have. Youmay be ableot get away with not sanding or just sraping it with a larger mud knife. A pro would not not be sanding at this point,but you are probably not that good if you are posting here.....neither am I.
-Make a pass with a 8" knife. Let it dry
-smooth it out and make a pass with 10-12" knife.

make 1-2 more passes over your nails.

There are alott of videos on utube on taping.

K.M.G 01-09-2010 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jlhaslip (Post 379731)
No mud under the outside corners bead. Just on top after the bead has been installed.

Those inside corners use paper tape similar to what you have on the flats, same tape, but folded to a 90 degrees bend lengthwise.
Application is the same way, place mud in the corner and use your tape trowel (knife) to smooth it out.

That would not work....unless I can put paper over mesh-tape????

That is Dens shield and I'm not allowed to use paper, only mesh-tape on the seems.

K.M.G 01-09-2010 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beerdog (Post 379742)
You still have some work ot do to make the joints painatble. You need at least 2 more coats....maybe 3.

-lightly sand what you have. Youmay be ableot get away with not sanding or just sraping it with a larger mud knife. A pro would not not be sanding at this point,but you are probably not that good if you are posting here.....neither am I.
-Make a pass with a 8" knife. Let it dry
-smooth it out and make a pass with 10-12" knife.

make 1-2 more passes over your nails.

There are alott of videos on utube on taping.

I already used a 10" knife to get where you see those pictures8|,I bought a 6&8 Knife but didn't really use them.

So I just keep putting mud on,until the paper goes away right and sand in between coats

I will check youtube

thanks

bkeech 01-09-2010 10:29 PM

You could tear it down and use only one piece.

jlhaslip 01-10-2010 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by K.M.G (Post 379744)
That is Dens shield and I'm not allowed to use paper, only mesh-tape on the seems.

sorry, looks like drywall board to me. carry on...

K.M.G 01-10-2010 08:09 PM

I have another question for you Folks:)

When using Mesh Tape,Do I mud the screw heads before I install the Tape like you would with paper and feather everything.

Or do I just stick the Mesh Tape over the screw heads and put my Drywall mud on to cover everything and look pretty.



I did a good sand and that smooth everything out nice:)

I still can't install and mud the corner bead because I don't have Drywall Nails:censored:

beerdog 01-10-2010 09:29 PM

Don't tape the nail/screws at all. Just 2-3 passes of mud.

Use Paper tape. It seems all the TV shows promote mesh tape but every drywall pro I have talked to said they always use paper tape. My exeprience is that you get better results.

The main thing with mudding is that you do it in steps.
1) Set the tape: layer of mud, knife in the tape, and then 1 pass over the tape. Let it dry for 24hrs. Use your 4" knife.
2) lightly sand or scrap the 1st layer. Then add 2nd coat with a 8" knife. let it dry for 24 hrs.
3) lighly sand or scrap the 2nd layer.Add the 3rd layer with a 12 knife. Let it dry for 24 hours.
4) Sand everything.
4) Skim coat everything of you want the absolute best finish. I think this is called a level 5 finish.

I would say you you should do one more pass witha large knife.Doyour corners.Then skim coat the entire area to help blend it together.

Remember......taping is not easy. Beginners always end up sanding alott.

bjbatlanta 01-11-2010 11:01 AM

Looks like it could be hung in one piece and eliminate the joint all together. Put another layer over the top (one piece) or remove and re-hang. If you're tiling to the ceiling, I'd just caulk the crack at the ceiling angle. I assume that's what you're going to do or the DensShield wouldn't go to the ceiling. Mesh tape is not for angles....

BlueBSH 01-13-2010 01:37 PM

shouldn't that outside corner have beading on it?

jkuzo 01-14-2010 10:48 AM

Practice makes perfect... The outside corner needs a metal or vinyl corner bead on it. Also, it appears you are pulling the knife away from the tape rather than along the tape by looking at what you have there. You also need to tape the inside corners of the walls too. Since this is a bathroom, you really should have used "green" board, not regular drywall. The one gap in the pictures will probably need to be filled insome before taping that corner, otherwise your just going to push the tape into the crack and make an ugly corner. One bit of advice when new to taping drywall. Don't play with it and keep going back over to make it better. The more you mess with it, the worse it will be. When you hung the drywall, did you put the finished edges together, so the depressions would match up giving you the area to tape? The tape just looks so much higher than the drywall that your going to have to take the compound out probably 18" on each side of the seam to feather it out enough to not notice the seam. Are you tiling the walls and ceiling? If so, you should have used backerboard for everything. Walls look like drywall too. If your tiling those you might as well rip everything down and start over. Backerboard is the way go.

Ron Franck 01-16-2010 01:36 AM

Yep, looking at your pictures it's obvious you put a ripped edge next to a tapered edge, hard to hide the tape that way. Get a couple of books and /or videos from your library. Myron Fergeson has a good book out as well as Stanley Tools. Both are excellent resources. High moisture rooms like your bathroom need greenboard where there is extra humidity or cement backerboard and tile if in direct contact with water. Exhaust fans are another must to pull excess moisture away. Youtube has several good video clips of taping and mudding. Fill cracks larger than 1/4" with setting compound reinforced with mesh, top with all purpose compound and then add your paper tape set in and topped with all purpose compound. Drag you knife in the same direction as your paper tape, not perpendicular to it. Outside corners need bead, metal or plastic.

Ron Franck 01-16-2010 01:42 AM

Normally, bead does not need mud under it when you attach it to the corners. Metal bead can be nailed or clinched. Plastic bead should be glued and stapled in place. If you use a product like Nocoat corner bead then you do need mud under it to fix it in place. All need a top coat or two (or three or four.):whistling2:

Leah Frances 01-16-2010 02:31 AM

My sympathies to the OP. It does sting a might to work so hard and find out you really need to do it again, but better.

Take it from me, no matter how badly it hurts your ego or your wallet, take a deep breath, stop now, and go back and do it right.

I can think of dozens of projects that got completed without proper revision because I-worked-too-hard-to-start-this-damn-project-over-again. And if I'd done it right the first time it wouldn't look like crap/ need fixing six months later/ or bug the hell out of me now.

So, try that deep breath again, and follow the good advice offered here. You can do it.:thumbsup:


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