As I said before, you've skipped some steps in remediating the problem. A word about DIY test kits. They ask you to place a collector that mold spores will settle onto. It is treated with a food source that will promote mold growth if spores are present. You send it away and they analyze it. Guess what, it has mold growing on it. It can't tell you what the source is. Some won't even tell you how many colonies have formed. Here's the rub. Mold spores are everywhere. Just walked through dry leaves? You drug a ton of spores into your house. Opened a moldy loaf of bread on your kitchen counter? Tons of mold spores introduced to the air. A realistic mold test involves taking several air samples inside and at least one outside. Then some wipe tests or spore collection for mold type analytics. You've got some mold. The test stage is over. You've visually confirmed it and you are smelling it. If as you've said, you are still smelling it, then it is still active. I don't advocate living around the stuff, only that the effects are being hyped by the media. If you want to get rid of it, then read on. I copied the major points of a previous post below.
First, you need to get an exhaust fan established direct to the outside and pull the airborne mold fragments and spores out. Since you already have had this open, they have been steadily permeating the rest of your home. Next, you need to remove the effected material, bag it and discard it. Paneling, insulation, drywall and trim are not salvageable. What you should have left are structural items that are not easily replaced. Now, the most important part…… you need to control the moisture. Mold needs three things to thrive. An organic food source (wood, paper and dust will do fine). This is pretty much uncontrollable . Temperatures in the range of 40 to 110. Room temperature will do just fine. Finally they need moisture in the range of 60% sustained RH or .6 water content. This is the controllable part. The best remediation effort in the world is for nothing, if the moisture is uncontrolled. Next thing is to scrub down whatever is left with a detergent solution and a scrub brush. Now you are ready to treat. Lots of things kill mold. There are several products out there that make claims one way or another. Phenols, Quaternary Ammonias and Sodium Hypochlorite (bleach) all kill mold. None will penetrate porous surfaces any better than the next (read the fine print). Even the magic mold potions will use one of these compounds, often with a few other “secret ingredients” added. If you choose bleach, use 10% maximum. Thoroughly treat the area going 12 inches past the last signs of mold. Let all of this completely dry. Dehumidify to speed the process if you must. Finally, seal the treated surfaces. A few companies sell sealers specifically for mold work. They usually include a mold inhibiter in their formula, but this isn’t particularly necessary. Kilz or something like it will work fine. The sealer will improve the appearance, but more importantly, it locks down any stray mold fragments or settled spores.
A few more things: No normal, healthy person has ever been documented as having died from mold. That said, wear your respirator anyway. Molds produce some nasty chemical compounds as part of their life cycle, but usually in such small amounts that they have little impact (bread molds are some of the worst). You don’t want to be sucking the crappy stuff into your lungs anyway.
Remember, you are dealing with mold here, not some bulletproof alien. Lots of things will kill it. Almost none of those can be made to penetrate into a porous material and be effective.
The end result is only as good as the diligence you use in performing the work.
Good luck