DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Drywall & Plaster (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/)
-   -   Metal corner bead question (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/metal-corner-bead-question-105796/)

Firehawk734 05-27-2011 08:12 PM

Metal corner bead question
 
I have a question regarding metal corner bead applied to a hallway entrance. The entrance is like a doorway, but of course i want to drywall it. It's got the 6 outside corners in the entrance area that need the corner bead.

The way I have done it is I have screwed in the metal corner bead, and where the 90 degree turns in the entrance are, the corner bead corners (no better word for me to use) but up against each other. Is this going to look fine once I mud it?

It's my first time corner beading a hallway entrance so I want to make sure this is fine before i get too far with mudding. Will the corners of the corner bead that are butted up against each other at the 90 degree turns still turn out fine once the mud fills in?

Firehawk734 05-28-2011 07:29 AM

bump for advice.

If anyone's having trouble understanding what I am saying, please ask.

Just visualize a hallway entrance, typical maybe 36" wide by 82 inches high. There would be 6 outside corners needing corner bead. Where the vertical corner bead comes in contact with the horizontal corner bead, my bead butts up against each other, creating a 90 degree angle there. It looks nice, my question is just simply, is this the proper way to install corner bead here, and when i mud the entrance will it come out a nice 90 degree looking entrance?

oh'mike 05-28-2011 08:28 AM

You should be fine as long as the steel bead corners are touching---I'm concerned about the screws that you used,however.

Usually the bead is nailed with drywall nails or stapled with a small crown stapler.

Screws often pucker the metal or have screw heads that stick out to far to cover with mud.


Post a picture if you know how or add more information.---Mike---

Arey85 05-28-2011 08:35 AM

If you are going to use metal there are a few different ways that contractors put the up and coat them. I'll give you my step by step. First install your tops. Don't screw them. Screws cause them to pull and twist with the torque. I clinch mine so I know they're straight then I go back and staple them with a 1-1/4" staple using a crown stapler. Butt your "legs" to the tops and repeat. Put a staple or two in the very outside corner.
When taping them I always put a tape on the outside corners cuz if not they will eventually crack. Also put a tape underneath both tops. Any weight above this area will cause them to crack. If your entryway is load bearing tape the sides too. Always fill your first coat with hot mud- it's stronger then premixed. If you are dead set on using metal this should help you out. But in my opinion you should be using no coat Ultraflex 325. It's a hell of alot faster and it looks sooooo much better. It will also never crack or dent like metal bead does.

Firehawk734 05-28-2011 04:45 PM

I wasn't planning to tape the corner bead edges but I guess there's no harm in it. I will do that.

I used drywall screws and was careful not to cause twisting in the bead. The bead looks straight still, and none of the screws are sticking out too far, as I checked with my drywall blade.

oh'mike 05-28-2011 05:08 PM

Sounds like
your good to go----I don't paper my corner bead---never caused me a problem---Mike--

Firehawk734 05-28-2011 06:50 PM

I am not sure why paper taping corner bead would really add much more strength. Take an inside corner for instance. It's just taped, no corner bead. If there are cracks there, it's caused by movement. Tape can also crack. So, if there was significant movement to cause corner bead to jar loose, I'm not sure why tape would really save it. It's just my opinion. I'm not a pro, just trying to think it through is all.

oh'mike 05-28-2011 07:25 PM

Do use the powdered easy sand 20 or 45 or 90 for the bead --it sticks nicely and is the hardest of the common muds.---It is also used to pack any voids or gaps in the work before applying paper tape --

Arey85 05-28-2011 10:09 PM

Put it this way- I'm working on a condo complex right now there's two tapers and every unit is the same. Lots of soffits in the basement units. Were on our fourth building right now. The first and second one we did, about a year ago have cracks under the beads of the soffits in some of the units. The ones that I taped I put a tape under every bead.... no cracks. The other taper feels it's pointless to tape under them. Guess which ones he did. Now I say again you only have to tape your sticks if they're load bearing like a drywall wrapped post under a beam for example.

oh'mike 05-29-2011 07:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arey85 (Post 656950)
Put it this way- I'm working on a condo complex right now there's two tapers and every unit is the same. Lots of soffits in the basement units. Were on our fourth building right now. The first and second one we did, about a year ago have cracks under the beads of the soffits in some of the units. The ones that I taped I put a tape under every bead.... no cracks. The other taper feels it's pointless to tape under them. Guess which ones he did. Now I say again you only have to tape your sticks if they're load bearing like a drywall wrapped post under a beam for example.


I'm not arguing with you :laughing:

We all develop techniques that work for us---You and I do things differently.

We have given this fellow a couple of choices--that's a good thing--

More that one right way of doing things--Mike---

Arey85 05-29-2011 12:16 PM

Agreed lol and maybe it is a waste of time in most cases but better safe than sorry. Anyway like I said I rarely use metal

Firehawk734 05-29-2011 12:17 PM

I may tape the corner bead that is on the load bearing area. This is my buddy's kitchen remodel and he took out the door that goes to the kitchen and just wanted it drywalled. So that's what I did. And it is a load bearing wall.

Maybe though, the guy that installed the corner bead didn't secure it good enough. Maybe it's not just the tape or no tape issue. I don't know. I'm just guessing. Again, I'm not the expert and you guys do this for a living or do it much more than I do.

I have seen other posts around the internet from supposed experts of 30+ years that have never taped corner bead so they have said. But yeah, I don't see how it could hurt shy of taking 5 more minutes to add it. A 250' roll of paper tape is 1.55 anyway here in Michigan.

dberladyn 05-30-2011 01:09 AM

Put it this way- I'm working on a condo complex right now there's two tapers and every unit is the same. Lots of soffits in the basement units. Were on our fourth building right now. The first and second one we did, about a year ago have cracks under the beads of the soffits in some of the units. The ones that I taped I put a tape under every bead.... no cracks. The other taper feels it's pointless to tape under them. Guess which ones he did. Now I say again you only have to tape your sticks if they're load bearing like a drywall wrapped post under a beam for example.

It's a waste of time because he is not being paid to tape the metal bead. On top of this, the fact that the Drywall Contractor is using metal bead in itself tells tales about the jobsite. The contractor obviously doesn't care about quality and to my experience that job is being done as cheap as possible.

Anyways as much as I hate metal bead, I hate taping it. However it should be done to prevent hairline cracks down the road.

I am not sure why paper taping corner bead would really add much more strength. Take an inside corner for instance. It's just taped, no corner bead. If there are cracks there, it's caused by movement. Tape can also crack. So, if there was significant movement to cause corner bead to jar loose, I'm not sure why tape would really save it. It's just my opinion. I'm not a pro, just trying to think it through is all.

Taping the metal bead will eliminate 99% of cracks. The real problem however is that the metal bead is screwed to the 2x4 underneath the drywall. When that 2x4 moves the bead moves with it, this is why metal bead should NEVER be used. Paperfaced laminated beads move with the drywall and not the 2x4 underneath.. no cracking.

Sounds like your good to go----I don't paper my corner bead---never caused me a problem

You don't do enough to know what happens down the road. Metal bead should be eliminated from the market altogether... but it's not because people who are not professionals keep purchasing it.

oh'mike 06-12-2011 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dberladyn (Post 657493)

Sounds like your good to go----I don't paper my corner bead---never caused me a problem

You don't do enough to know what happens down the road. Metal bead should be eliminated from the market altogether... but it's not because people who are not professionals keep purchasing it.



How in the hell do you know how much drywall I do????

Keep your personal judgments to yourself---I do not want you speaking for me---

dberladyn 06-12-2011 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oh'mike (Post 665833)
How in the hell do you know how much drywall I do????

Keep your personal judgments to yourself---I do not want you speaking for me---

Well if you have done a MILLION or more Boardfeet like I and other professionals do, you would KNOW BETTER. That's how I know. Take Care.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:18 PM.