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-   -   matching up 5/8" with 1/2" on the ceiling (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/matching-up-5-8-1-2-ceiling-107605/)

jhubert 06-13-2011 10:00 PM

matching up 5/8" with 1/2" on the ceiling
 
I gutted my family room in the basement and decided to put in 5/8". The problem I am going to have is in the hallway the 5/8" will butt up against the existing 1/2" drywall. At least it is in the hallway and the seam will only be 3' wide. But how do I work a little magic so it isn't so noticeable? Where the 1/2" ends I do have the access to maybe add shims to drop it down a bit.

dsconstructs 06-13-2011 10:24 PM

My thought is trying to get that sheetrock unattached from the framing enough to add shims is you'll do more damage than good. You're going to have to mud anyway of course so prefill the lip a little so the tape lays flat and then mud/float as needed to help blend that transition.

Bud Cline 06-13-2011 10:29 PM

Why not just nail up a piece of panel-cap or outside corner molding and paint it to match the ceiling. That would look better than trying to jury-rig the drywall.:)

dsconstructs 06-13-2011 10:49 PM

Gotta admit I like the panel cap idea better, nice and clean, no slanted ceiling......and less work :thumbsup:

12penny 06-14-2011 07:41 AM

its only an 1/8". Mud out far enough and I think you'll never see it. At least less so than a piece of molding.

MikeKy55 06-20-2011 08:48 PM

When I hung my basement, the stairwell walls were already finished. When I did the walls from the floor joist down to the basement floor, I used 1/2 inch. When I started the mud work I realized the existing wall was 5/8Th's. I mudded the joint as You would a butt joint except went out about 3 feet with the final coat. It's in primer right now, but you can't feel it and I can't see the transition.

user1007 06-21-2011 07:01 AM

These is one instance where I would use mesh tape. I would then mud everything out far enough so the transition would not be noticed unless you were looking for it.

I would use hot mud for this as it will have more density than lightweight compound and you will have more control over it as it sets up. You will not be waiting around for excess moisture to evaporate out either.

I would use a nice, flexible, wide knife (you will struggle with a little 4 or even 8 incher) and would count on a couple passes. I would be careful not to overwork the compound once in place.

Which mud to use is up to you. Hot mud is sold as a powder and packed in plastic lined boxes or sacks. You purchase it according to its cure time and it comes rated from 5 minutes to 120 minutes. A chemical reaction starts the minute water (or even excess humidity in some cases) hits the powder and the mix turns warm--hence the name hot mud. So, you have to move fast in accordance with the cure time mix you purchase.

A true pro can make working with 5 minute compound look so easy but I do well to stay ahead of 20 minute at times. 45 minute compound might be a better bet for someone just starting out?


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