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-   -   lip created by previous seam (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/lip-created-previous-seam-188616/)

rufuscobb 10-15-2013 07:07 AM

lip created by previous seam
 
I'm a drywall rookie.

My basement flooded, so I cut out the drywall 24" up from the floor, pulled and dried the insulation, mold treated the studs, and I'm ready to put it back together.

It just so happens that the original drywaller also had a seam at 24" from the floor (is that common?), so there was a seam right where I cut. Now, when I'm going to put the replacement drywall in, the mud from the original seam has made the existing sections about 1/8" thicker than the new sheets. So right at the new seam, there's a pretty significant difference in thickness creating a lip (top sheet thicker than bottom).

Do I shim the new sheets to try and get them even, or just slop the mud on there and hope for the best when sanding? Seems like if I do the ladder, that's a LOT of extra mud and sanding and I might end up with a seriously noticeable bungled seam.

Thanks in advance!

oh'mike 10-15-2013 07:16 AM

You will be happier with the results if you make a cut above the old mud line---and install a wider repair piece---

Yes, this will double the budget for drywall but the results will be worth it in my opinion---if not,you will end up with a very visible bulge--even after you feather out the taping ----

ToolSeeker 10-15-2013 08:55 AM

About the only reason I can think of for a seam at 2' is you have 10' ceilings and they hung 8' drywall vertical or you have 10' ceilings and the hung 48" vertical. If you got your drywall at Depot or Lowes make sure you have the right size, sometimes people hunting for the prettiest sheet will put the wrong size on the wrong pile. From what it sounds like you are dealing with a tapered joint (which is a good thing),if you cut up higher you will be dealing with a butt joint (not a good thing) and they are a lot harder to deal with.
Since this sounds like a taper see if you can find a place where you can get ahold of the paper tape, if so work at it till you get a pretty good hold and then pull it off. If you can do this most of the old mud should come off. Wetting may help, if this doesn't work a random orbit sander with 120 or 150 paper on low speed to control the dust will work.
Remember this doesn't have to look good because you need to re-tape and mud whatever way you go, and with decent mud skills you can hide a multitude of sins. Good Luck

Gary in WA 10-15-2013 09:44 PM

I would not reuse the fg insulation; http://inspectapedia.com/Fiberglass/FiberglassMold.htm

Is there foam board on the concrete wall, have you seen other mold higher up the frame wall cavity with an inspection mirror?

Gary

rufuscobb 10-16-2013 06:17 AM

Thanks for the tips. I was talking about it with a friend who had the great idea to do wainscoting over it....a nice upgrade and no worries about seams. @Gary - thanks for the info on mold growth in fiberglass insulation. I'll replace the sections that got wet. Fortunately there wasn't any active mold growth yet. I just treated the wall plate and first few inches of the studs as a precaution.


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