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Old 02-20-2014, 10:16 PM   #16
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


Yes screw can pop. Its not always the type the fastener more often I would say the movement of the walls/studs. I have seen a sheet screwed off and one stud was not flush to the rock so when it was screwed off the sheet dipped in on the off stud. The next day the sheet had popped back straight. The only solution was to take the sheet off and fur out or just spot the screws and leave it not screwed to the one stud. But take the screws out because if you leave them in and you push on the wall the mud will get pushed out.

The light switch looks like it was busted out and the finished never bothered to patch it cause it takes more time.

Some rockers use nail because that how they did it way back in the day. Or if they have no one to help hold for them they claim its easier to nail first. But there are more rockers out there that just use screws and never touch nails. Better off*

Depends on heat and insulation when building the house especially when taping.

Tons of variables.

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Old 02-23-2014, 06:50 AM   #17
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


If this is a pervasive problem, you said new construction.

Do you have a warranty? If so, write to the builder and get the crew out to fix these things.
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:49 PM   #18
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


Sorry, haven't had much of a chance to check in lately.

There is a 1-year warranty on the house, and they come in at the 11-month mark after a complete cycle of seasons to fix any drywall issues. The lead builder was here today to fix another small issue and I inquired about the drywall. I asked if he had multiple crews he used or the same crew. He said he now has a new crew, and those guys are no longer employed. Said he couldn't defend their workmanship and that a new crew has been hired. I told him that all 3 neighbors I spoke with have terrible drywall issues. Humps at tapered joints, pops, etc. He said the same company is still obligated to fix issues at the 11 month mark. I said that didn't give me a warm fuzzy; if they didn't give a crap the first time around, why would they care the second time? He said there's different people for initial build, and for punch-lists. All I can do is wait and see.
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Old 03-03-2014, 04:53 PM   #19
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


So the question becomes: What is the proper way to fix these voids?

I've filled in normal screw holes before, and I've also done repairs of popped nails. This is a little different I think. I believe there is a void between the popped mud and the screw head. So, that popped mud needs to be knocked off, and re-mudded. IF the face of the paper is broken, as in they sunk the screw too far, then I'll need to put another screw ~1-1/2" inches away, since the original screw has no holding power, and any movement could cause the screw to pop the mud again I guess.

Can I just use the 5-minute stuff to repair the holes? I'm adept at working it OK.

Thoughts?
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Old 03-03-2014, 05:59 PM   #20
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


I can certainly imagine your anger, especially when you end up fixing something you shouldn't have to. I'm not sure what you mean with the popped mud and void thing. Dig it out with a 5-1 tool or give it a light hit with a hammer to break the loose mud out. If you're worried abut the drywall being loose, put in another screw an inch away and fill at the same time. Nothing wrong with using hot mud (easy sand) to fill the holes.

As for around the switches, cut the torn paper back to good sound drywall and remove the broken pieces. It'll likely take multiple applications of hot mud to patch in.

Not uncommon to find sanding scratches on the seams, especially in the corners. It happens when you don't move up in grits, especially with sanding screens. A skim of mud will take care of it.
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Old 03-03-2014, 09:34 PM   #21
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


See what the builder says he's going to do in each instance and get him to detail it to you in writing, Email him and the builder company who holds the contract. Don't let them run out the clock on you. The last part is crucial- no more mr. nice guy time for you.
Tell them what you expect and by when and don't let up.
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Old 03-04-2014, 07:56 AM   #22
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


You can patch the existing pop-outs, but I'd suggest you shoot screws above or below them since they appear to have been torn into the paper.

As far as the contractor/warranty is concerned? I'd rather not get into that much beyond that he's the primary contractor and is ultimately responsible for the warranty work.
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:32 PM   #23
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


I'll post up the warranty stuff later. I'm fixing a couple rooms for now just so I can paint them and please my wife. :/

I'm going to drive another screw in. Question is, do I drive the original deeper so it doesn't pop again? How deep?
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Old 03-10-2014, 03:50 PM   #24
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave88LX View Post
I'll post up the warranty stuff later. I'm fixing a couple rooms for now just so I can paint them and please my wife. :/

I'm going to drive another screw in. Question is, do I drive the original deeper so it doesn't pop again? How deep?
If, as already suggested you drive one screw above and one below each popped screw and don't drive the new screws to where they break the paper, then fill all screw heads and sand smooth, you should be all set. Get the proper length screws based on the thickness of your drywall. Use a drywall gun set to drive to the proper depth. Practice on scrap pieces of same thickness screwing into wood of same dimension to set correct depth.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:12 PM   #25
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


I'll do the screws above/below. 1/2" drywall, I have 1-1/4" drywall screws on hand. I don't have a drywall gun but I'm OK with putting in screws the correct way.

Quote:
don't drive the new screws to where they break the paper
The existing screws have broken through the paper faces, so that's already been done. I'm not sure if I should just drive them deeper then fill the holes & 2 new screw divots. I don't want the old screws to pop out the mud again.

Hell - I should just take the old screws out. No reason to leave them in eh?


http://www.gypsum.org/wp/wp-content/.../GA-222-09.pdf

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Old 03-10-2014, 04:26 PM   #26
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


It's obvious the original screws popped. Pull them or don't. The new screws will hold the sheetrock in place, if done right.
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Old 03-10-2014, 04:30 PM   #27
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


I will probably just pull the old screws out after putting a new one above/below the old ones. Clean up the hole, fill them all together. From reading Gary's link the 1-1/4" should be good, as a deeper screw can cause a larger gap between the framing and drywall as the wood shrinks.

Thank you!
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Old 03-10-2014, 06:42 PM   #28
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


One wall down.

I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?-forumrunner_20140310_194212.jpg



I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?-forumrunner_20140310_194222.jpg
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:02 AM   #29
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


That last pic is how they left the screws? That looks way too deep to me.
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Old 03-11-2014, 07:41 AM   #30
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I've heard of nail pops, but do screws pop?


Yup. Wayyyy too deep. Not just a couple. Tons of them.

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