Installing Drywall Ceiling

daytrepper

Hello all, new to the forum, and looking for a bit of advice.

I have a 30x30x10 garage, and I am going to finish it with insulation/drywall. I have a couple questions about installing the ceiling.

First, I have a truss ceiling, which are 2x4's spaced 24 inches on center. I have read online that trusses move a bit over time due to moisture/temperature, and can cause cracks in the ceiling. I have also read that the best way to avoid this is to not secure the drywall within 16 inches of the wall or solid object, or secure it with slotted clips. Can any of you offer any advice on this?

Second, since the trusses are spaced 24 inches on center, should I use 5/8 drywall and construction adhesive to prevent sagging, or should I build a 16" on center grid with 1x3 firring strips and hang 1/2" drywall from that?

Last, I am not too sure how to connect the drywall to the solid wall at each end. Again, concerned about movement and cracking. There is a 2x4 nailed to the top plate on each end wall, that sticks out enough for a nailer for the drywall, (shown in pic) but it is solid compared to the trusses, should I be concerned about movement and cracking here, or just attach it anyways?






Thanks for any advice you can give.

oh'mike

You have done your home work well.

You will attach the 5/8 drywall to the nailer on the gable end--

Leave the drywall loose 16 inches from the side with the soffit--

if and only if you are drywalling the walls--(you need the wall rock to keep the ceiling panels from sagging_

Rent a drywall lift--use 12 footers--stagger your butt joints--

--Mike--

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daytrepper

Thanks for the info.

I will be doing the walls pretty quick after the ceiling. I take it the drywall will be OK for a few days until I get the walls installed, with the 16" unattached?

I might use 12 footers for the walls as well, looks like there is a cost savings involved, I'd originally planned for 4x8's all around. Im definitely renting a lift for the project, and have a couple people to help.

This brings me to one more question. Since this is going to be fully insulated, and heated/cooled at times, should I install gable vents?

oh'mike

Venting---a ridge vent is the best---mushrooms next best--gable vents last choice---

Gable vents don't tend to pull air through the soffits as well as the other two choices.---Mike--

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masterofall

definatly vent it. Can you use 1/2" no sag drywall? Vapourier barrier on the warm side. You may want to get some more electrical outlets in if you want a shop in there.

masterofall

definatly vent it. Can you use 1/2" no sag drywall? Vapourier barrier on the warm side. You may want to get some more electrical outlets in if you want a shop in there. Use the largest sheets possible. Drywall is cheap. Taping is more expensive.

Gary in WA

Minimum thickness for on center of framing, floating corners; 7" or 12", fig.4 and 5. Fig.7 = 16" only with adhesive, etc.; http://gypsum.org/pdf/GA-216-2010.html

Truss up-lift; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...d-but-strange/

This building is detached from house?

Gary

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daytrepper

I could use 1/2 inch no sag. I havent priced it though. Do I really need a separate vapor barrier? A few have told me that faced insulation is just fine.

I am going to have to climb up, cant tell from the ground, but it looks like there is a ridge vent installed. From the ground there appears to be a gap between the roof shingles and the shingles covering the peak, along the length of the roof, and at the peak there is about a 4" channel cut out of the plywood along the entire length. I'll climb up and be sure.

Ive got plenty of electrical outlets, just rewired the entire garage, replaced the panel, etc.

It is detached from the house. Thanks for the link!

boman47k

Mike, why not float the ends at the gable too if there is going to be board under them too?

Not disagreeing at all. Too little experience with ceiling boards to know here.

daytrepper

Fellas, I have one more issue before I dig into this...

I am concerned with the trusses' ability to support the ceiling properly, and hope someone here can shed some light on it before I hire someone to come look at the trusses. I have no truss spec sheet unfortunately.

Here are some pics and details on the trusses...
2x4 "W" style, spaced 24" OC....

trusses are tied together with 2x4 boards...10 feet apart at the base of the "W" at the bottom chord, gable to gable

there are also 4 2x4x10 boards bracing the trusses diagonally.

Regular shingle/plywood roof on top...

Here are a few more pics...

proremodel

The trusses will hold the drywall just fine. They are designed to hold that weight. Rock away!