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How to use this bead

4K views 27 replies 9 participants last post by  bjbatlanta 
#1 ·
I wanted a strong, stiff inside and outside bead because I won't have studs at the edges of the drywall that I'm using to make a soffit, so I bought the bead below. How is it typically used? For the outside corners I guess I'll use constructive adhesive. 3/16" of drywall compound should be enough to level it with the drywall. The little folds at the edges of the bead are about 1/8" high.
 

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#2 ·
No clue what that was suppost to be for.
Should just use just reguler metal outside corner bead made for sheetrock.
It will have the holes already punched and not have that curl on the outside edges that will leave a huge hump when you go to finish it.
 
#4 · (Edited)
The structure behind the drywall will be steel hat channel. I may have to work around diagonal EMT (red), so it will look something like the diagram below. I might be able to make another hole and lay the EMT straight so I could use two continuous section of hat channel, but that would just provide better support for the wall of the soffit. The underside of the soffit has to be attached to something. I planned on gluing and screwing the bead to the wall of the soffit, then I could glue and screw the underside of the soffit to other side of the bead. Another length of bead would be screwed to the wall for the other side of the underside. I'm using hat channel because I want it fireproof.
 

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#5 ·
I'm not sure I get what you are building. The dimensions might help. You could use steel studs so you have a solid structure to secure the drywall. I'm no pro, but I don't see how your current bead will work. It's too thick on the ends. Metal bead would be stronger but you need something to nail it to.
 
#6 ·
I'm building something like this, but less deep. Not deep enough for studs but too deep for furring so I'll attach drywall strips to the furring. The dimensions of mine will be about 11" high, 5' long, and 2 1/2" deep. I could use wood around the edges because I was told this interior wall doesn't have to be fireproof, but I think I can keep it fireproof so I will, which causes the bead issue. I was just curious about how that bead is usually used.
 

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#7 ·
I think the UPC is 722383202108. I wrote it down a few months ago so I can look up more information on the internet but I didn't find anything. I bought it at Home Depot but I don't see it on their website. I also wrote "superstrut" but that didn't help.

I'll probably caulk it to the drywall. Maybe I'll also anchor it to the drywall, or maybe I'll put it under the drywall and just use drywall screws. The hat channel will be supporting the drywall just a few inches away from the corners so I think it will turn out good.
 
#8 ·
Whole problem is your bead is wrong.
If a customer called me in to use that bead, :no: is no use for it.
I can only imagine that with the crimped ends, it may be to slide in another section and add on more metal?
Certainly is not corner bead and what you want.
Just return it or toss it.
If you must use it, cut off the crimped end to make it flat, use drywall nails to nail it flat.
But honestly, is more work then worth,
I would toss it in the scrap bin and buy correct material, is actually pretty cheap.
 
#9 ·
OK, maybe I'll put it in the corner inside the soffit and I'll glue on regular corner bead for the inside and outside corners and tape over the bead for extra strength. Because another option is angle iron which is stronger, heaver, and more expensive than I'd like. The bead thing that I bought is probably good enough to replace a stud in the corner of this little soffit.
 
#11 ·
As I said, "The underside of the soffit has to be attached to something." The hat channel I'm attaching to the wall isn't square like a stud. It can only support the front side of the soffit (the side that's parallel to the wall). I also said "I wanted a strong, stiff inside and outside bead because I won't have studs at the edges of the drywall." Angle iron could be used but is stronger than I need and the bead I bought is somewhere between angle iron and a bead. Closer to a bead.
 
#14 ·
Lets see if I have this right.

You're building this soffit
to hide the EMT that will
run across the top of the
wall. Yes?
Yes

Why not use dimensional
lumber? Say a 2x4 flat
against the wall. Then you
have structure and all is good.
The word "fireproof" occurs four times in this thread. It's a "fireproof" wall in a "fireproof" building and even though I don't think interior walls are required to be non-wooden, I'd like to keep it fireproof.
 
#15 · (Edited)
You have non fire code rated doors, plywood covering the soffit, but you want it fire proof:(
Buy going over the soffit with 5/8 fire code sheetrock the 2 X 4 or any wooden framing would be a none issue.
 
#17 ·
You have none fire code rated doors, plywood covering the soffit, but you want it fire proof:(
Buy going over the soffit with 5/8 fire code sheetrock the 2 X 4 or any wooden framing would be a none issue.
No, that picture of the wooden soffit isn't from my apartment. I don't think wood is technically an issue but I live in an apartment that I own but it still gets inspected and there are rules and I don't want the building manager or the board of directors, who may not be familiar with the fire code, to see that I permanently extended the plaster and mesh wall with wood.
 
#25 ·
I already bought paper faced superwide bead, but after watching that video maybe I'll buy Mud Max. The angle framing trim that I was wondering about will be used as it's intended to be used, inside the soffit. It's usually "optional" but it's just what I need for my hat channel framed soffit.


I wonder how Mud Max affects sanding and water smoothing. Eh, I probably won't buy it.
 
#28 ·
Paper faced, metal reinforced bead will work fine. It's all I use any more on new work. Way less issues with "popped bead" (virtually none). You put it on with joint compound. It is available at HD and Lowes around here...
 
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