How to replace one wall???

drywallfinisher

sorry about the grammar in my last post.
you're in Florida you probably have an orange peel type texture on the walls.
I would skip the j-channel and go for flat taping tight up against the textured walls.
"Here's to hoping you havent made a mess yet"
If you cut your angle clean and straight without ripping the sides that are staying (textured) while removing the one wall. There's still an easier way.
Do the above with the ceiling angle.
Cut your wall angles with a razor knife straight and clean.
hang the drywall as tight as you can get it to the staying walls. if it not perfect tight, pre-fill any gaps. Let dry.
nest step needs to e clean, you can't use painters tape to keep it clean and still get the desired finish..
So cleanly apply all purpose mud down the side of the "new" walls angle..place the tape, flat into the angle, bumpt up against the texture wall. Wipe the tape down tight and clean, looking out for spillage onto the texture wall, clean off any.when the tape drys, coat it, keep it clean watching for spillage again.
this is called flat taping.
this will crack if you dont apply a tiny bead of caulk before priming.
after running the bead of latex caulk wipe it down with a semi soaked rag
leaving a very very thin line of caulk that will hold the angle and look correct.
it's a technique used by finishers to finish up against block walls and fire places

mae-ling

New one to me. All the drywallers I have worked with use the J.
What is better about this way, except J not needed before the drywall?

drklude

I haven't demoed wall yet. If I'm understanding your instructions correctly then it seems that cutting the old wall as tight, straight, and clean as possible at the existing joints, both walls and ceiling, is vital to this all working.

The rest seems pretty straight forward, basically like taping a seam in the middle of the wall, except at the edge, so no folding of the tape to fit the corners.

Am I on the right track?

drywallfinisher

yes you do not fold the tape you lay it flat up the new wall angles...bump it into the textured wall. I do this technique with new wall to wallpaper applications as well.
Using the latex caulk is critical though. you have to use it or it will crack. cleaning up with a wet rag (the caulk) makes it visually esthetic. leave that top angle alone and come down five inches

mae-ling

Drywallfinisher - why is flat tape better?

drywallfinisher

you wont have to match up your wall texture.

drklude

Regarding the ceiling, I know some of you have said to cut about 6 inches down and replace wall from there. One issue is that this wall is textured. If I do that I have to re-texture the new wall, which I'd rather not do. Can I use the J channel on the ceiling joint, or should I flat tape that too?

Is there something special I should be aware of if I remove it all the way to the ceiling. The ceiling is textured as well, so I'm thinking I would handle it the same way as the wall joints?

I appreciate everyone's input throughout this thread! Lots of help.

mae-ling

Around here in your case they would use the J on all 3 sides.
On top sheet may need to cut off about 3" so it fits J properly.
Then do a 'belly band' a 3" band in the center. (assuming 8' ceilings and 48" drywall.
You can get 54" drywall then just cut off 6" at the top and still have a nice tapered joint to mud in the center.

Can't speak to the flat taping, method I am not familiar with.

drklude

One last question, I'm probably going to go with the J on all 3 sides as it seems the easiest way to go. When installing the J at the wall joints, do I cut the channels to the 4' lengths of the drywall and install with each sheet? I found that the channels come in long pieces I think around 8-10 feet. Is there a way to install one long piece of J so there are no seems? Would I just install it on the bottom piece of drywall, and then slide sheet above it into the channel as I install it?