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drklude 10-15-2012 03:48 PM

How to replace one wall???
Recently purchased a house in SW Florida. When we moved in I noticed a little bit of peeling paint on one wall in the dining room. I tried to pull the small chip off and a piece of paint the size of a dinner plate effortlessly peeled off. Needless to say the paint on the wall had not adhered properly.

I investigated further as this particular wall is shared by the dining room and the garage, which is unconditioned. What I found was that the wall was not insulated. The cold air from inside was meeting the warm humid outside air in the garage and was condensating inside the wall. I looked around and didn't find any mold, but the drywall was a bit damp in some places.

Now to my question. I plan on taking down the wall and putting up new drywall on both the dining room side and the garage side, but this time insulating the wall to keep eliminate condensation from building up in the wall. Is there any tick to replace just one wall in a room? My main concern is with the corner and ceiling joints. I've seen some people who recommend just cutting the existing drywall and leaving the outer few inches of the existing wall to avoid all the corner and ceiling joints. This seems questionable to me as all of the wall could have been damaged by the condensation.

Any advice/tips?

user1007 10-15-2012 05:06 PM

You want to fit new drywall all the way and retape corners and edges. You can probably trim along the ceiling and adjoining walls with a razor knife and straight edge. Then demo the wall. Pull out all the drywall nails and screws.

I would spray some Boron in the cavity before you insulate as long as you have it open as a cheap insect deterrent. Insulate. Hang new drywall. Mud and tape. Prime and paint.

ToolSeeker 10-15-2012 06:22 PM

Check your local codes, in fla if the garage is attached in most areas you need 2 layers of drywall in the garage side and the seams need to be taped and mudded.This is to protect from gases from cars, lawnmowers, ect and to extend the burn time in case of fire in the garage. And yes you can drywall just 1 wall. DO NOT just cut the drywall back all but a couple inches you are asking for a nightmare to tape and mud. And to install a vapor barrier should eliminate the condensation problem, it should have been done when built unless it's a really old house. hope this helps good luck

drklude 10-15-2012 08:28 PM

They had the double drywall in the garage, looks almost like a compressed cardboard type of material about a 1/2'' then a layer of drywall over that. I was surprised it wasn't insulated, but the house is about 50 years old.

drywallfinisher 10-16-2012 08:59 PM

I disagree with removing the drywall to the ceiling angle. being this is a diy forum. I'd recommend.
chalk a line 5 inches from the ceiling. Score that line with a razor knife, then use a rotozip type router and router(cut) that line. Remove from that point. Tearing into the ceiling line will cause more issues than it is probably worth. 3 and 1/8th's" below the ceiling is all top plate condensation at that point should be very minor. The repair will much easier.
+1 on the vapor barrier
I wouldnt worry about the wall angle...the ceiling though )-:

mae-ling 10-16-2012 10:24 PM

Yep, especially if it is a textured ceiling of any sort. Cut it 5-6" down
Can use a rotozip or make multiple passes with a knife.

drklude 10-18-2012 09:42 AM

Seems to be two schools of thought here...are there advantages/disadvantages of the two approachs, other than one being easier?

mae-ling 10-18-2012 09:54 AM

if your ceiling is textured you can not tape against it, cut down 5" (or 6")

drklude 10-18-2012 10:08 AM

What if the two adjoining walls are textured?

mae-ling 10-18-2012 10:14 AM

Use a drywall J on the edge of the drywall and painters caulk in the corner.
Quite of then the J is used when going up against brick or wood.

drklude 10-18-2012 10:23 AM

Did not know that existed! Thanks.

coupe 10-18-2012 07:54 PM

if you use a J channel? you'll need to cut the tapered edge from drywall sheets

drklude 10-18-2012 07:59 PM

Can you explain what you mean by tapered edge?

mae-ling 10-18-2012 08:21 PM

Most drywall has tapered edges along the long sides, it creates a recess that the mud goes into.
If you run your drywall horizontal these tapers will be in the middle and at the top and bottom of the sheet.

coupe 10-18-2012 08:25 PM

when the drywall is rolled, it puts a taper along the length of the sheet. to accept the paper tape and mud. the edges are not a full 1/2" or 5/8". the "J" bead will not fit tightly. you'll need to cut at least 3 inches off edge for best fit.

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