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-   -   How to properly seal cuts and damage to drywall paper? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/how-properly-seal-cuts-damage-drywall-paper-154592/)

maxforwardspeed 08-23-2012 01:57 PM

How to properly seal cuts and damage to drywall paper?
 
I just finished hanging drywall for the first time on a partition wall that I built.

But, some of the screws caused the drywall to buckle and the paper bulged up and tore in those areas.
I cut away the loose paper as best as I could, but now there are several small spots that have no moisture
protection because of the missing paper where the rock is exposed. Now I'm worried about what will happen
when I mud and tape these areas (some are located in tapered joints, others are in the middle of the wall).
I didn't know what else to do, so for now I applied some BIN Shellac primer from a spray can in the hopes
that it will help seal the area from the moisture in the pre-mix mud.

1. What's going to happen when I apply the pre-mix mud to those spots and the moisture attacks the exposed rock?

2. Or should I just make several more coats with the BIN before mudding?

3. I also read about Gardz, but from what I gather that only works on torn paper not exposed rock, right?

Thanks, I also included a few photos of the worst spots.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30570933/Drywalldmg1.PNG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30570933/Drywalldmg2.PNG

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/30570933/Drywalldmg3.JPG

joecaption 08-23-2012 04:35 PM

The right way would have been to cut any loose paper and just a light sanding to get rid of any high places then go over it with mud like you would any screw. No painting it first.

maxforwardspeed 08-23-2012 08:45 PM

Can't I just sand it now, then re-apply the primer/sealer to the area after it's smoothed a bit better?

joecaption 08-23-2012 08:49 PM

It's going to take at least two coats of drywall compound, sand it, add another coat if there's still flaws, then prime and paint.
Paint will not fix flaws in the finish.

maxforwardspeed 08-23-2012 11:09 PM

Ok, thanks Joe. It was my understanding that the primer seals the nearby paper and protects it from moisture damage (swelling) when the mud is applied. But it sounds like you are basically saying to not be concerned with that step at all? Just go for the mudding and worry about the finish later?

chrisBC 08-24-2012 12:20 AM

If I have torn paper I will typically scrape and sand it, then prime before mudding. (to prevent bubbling in the mud later on) However for areas as small as in that pic, I wouldn't worry too much. Just make sure your screws are set to dimple below where the papr would be. One coat of primer is fine before any mudding, it's just to seal it.

Sir MixAlot 08-24-2012 10:05 PM

Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup:
Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:

stoner529 08-24-2012 10:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir MixAlot (Post 995740)
Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup:
Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:

Im shocked out of all these posts, you are the first one to even say this...
Do as the Sir says. If you break the paper of the drywall, that means you have driven the screw in to far. it looks as if you used just a regular screw gun with out any special tip. each screw that is past the paper will not hold the drywall properly and will create problems. I dont see the paper being torn as a problem if it doesnt peal up from being ripped. If it does peel, then you need to do a little extra work.

maxforwardspeed 08-25-2012 12:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir MixAlot (Post 995740)
Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup:
Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:

Ok, question on that: Those screws in the photos actually appeared the same before they were flush with the drywall as they were going in. Is it possible that the torn appearance was created just from the paper curling up where the screw was first "catching" on the way in?

I do have a few screws that I know for a fact broke the paper. They seemed to just let go and give when that happened. Not with these from the photos, they were definitely still biting pretty good.

stoner529 08-25-2012 07:46 AM

No...a properly set screw never does that.

Gary in WA 08-27-2012 01:33 AM

A picture and description of the screws would help. From about 8-10 inches away... Add a pic of the drill tip/attachment.

The paper facing/gypsum core doesn't require moisture sealing as you mentioned in post #1. Drywall is around 30 perms (vapor permeable).

Gary

bjbatlanta 08-29-2012 03:41 PM

Agree with Sir & stoner. You have cut the face paper. Need to add a screw(s) close to the ones that popped WITHOUT going through the face paper. The drywall is not attached tightly to the framing if the paper is torn and you will have issues with screws "popping" until the problem is resolved. You don't need to prime. What type of moisture "attack" are you concerned about?? If this is in a conditioned space (heat and AC), there's no issue once the board is finished and painted properly......

crankcase 09-02-2012 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sir MixAlot (Post 995740)
Max, I would definitely put another screw in a couple inches away from any screw that has broken the paper.:thumbsup:
Once a screw goes beyond the paper it has lost all of it's hold strength.:yes:

Agreed, But I would also add to pull out the screw that was driven too deeply. For me any fastener that misses a framing member or not set properly or breaks the paper gets pulled.

bjbatlanta 09-02-2012 09:50 PM

Definitely pull any that didn't hit any framing. Those that did will be ok if you add another fastener very close to the one that "popped", not a few inches away. And one above and below is best. If you back out the "offending" fastener, so much the better. It's no big deal with screws. I'm used to nails in wood framing, so pulling is not an option.....


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