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-   -   How to fix boo-boo around recessed light (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/how-fix-boo-boo-around-recessed-light-183736/)

jonhayden 07-16-2013 11:14 PM

How to fix boo-boo around recessed light
 
Hi all,

I'm adding a bedroom to the basement and finally passed all my inspections and made it to the drywall stage. If you take a look at the picture below, you'll see my rotozip got away from me. I'm a beginner at drywalling (obviously) so I'm curious to see what you pros would do to fix this. The light trim is a hair too small to hide it. I was originally thinking I'd just put up a piece of mesh tape and then mud/sand as normal. But no matter how good a job I do I'm afraid one side of the light will be higher than the other and the trim won't sit flush. So can I just put some mud up there without tape? There's no way for me to put any sort of backing up there either since the gasket part of the can light is in that space. All suggestions welcome.

Thanks,
Jon

http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36e8dfe9.jpg

chrisn 07-17-2013 01:39 AM

No need to tape that, just skim and sand it smooth

jonhayden 07-17-2013 08:09 AM

So just build up a little mud on the inside edge? I only need about 1/8" more so the trim covers it.

ToolSeeker 07-17-2013 10:05 PM

tape would add a lot of strength for those times your changing a bulb and it a little tight, and no worry about the plug falling out.

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-17-2013 11:34 PM

Jon... Having a little problem seeing the picture correctly,,, you said 1/8 inch,,,, but looks like maybe 1" @ about 4 or 5 o'clock.

Also, are you going to texture your ceiling.... makes a difference as to the repair

chrisn 07-18-2013 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonhayden (Post 1216998)
So just build up a little mud on the inside edge? I only need about 1/8" more so the trim covers it.

That is all I would do. I am assuming the fixture is attached to something and not just hanging in the hole.:whistling2:

firehawkmph 07-18-2013 07:32 AM

+1, just use the hot mix mud and fill the gap. For the last coat, I would use premix mud, like dust control, just to make it easy to sand.
Mike Hawkins:)

jonhayden 07-18-2013 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC (Post 1217339)
Jon... Having a little problem seeing the picture correctly,,, you said 1/8 inch,,,, but looks like maybe 1" @ about 4 or 5 o'clock.

Also, are you going to texture your ceiling.... makes a difference as to the repair

I meant to say that it sticks about 1/8" outside the trim ring of the light. The trim will come out about 1", but the mistake comes out about 1 1/8". The ceiling will not have a texture. I want a nice smooth ceiling.

Thanks

jonhayden 07-18-2013 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by firehawkmph (Post 1217385)
+1, just use the hot mix mud and fill the gap. For the last coat, I would use premix mud, like dust control, just to make it easy to sand.
Mike Hawkins:)

What is "hot mix" mud? Is that something I can find at the big box stores? I'm guessing this isn't the standard all purpose compound I'll be using for the joints.

Thanks,
Jon

jonhayden 07-18-2013 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisn (Post 1217351)
That is all I would do. I am assuming the fixture is attached to something and not just hanging in the hole.:whistling2:

HaHa! Yes, it's those standard HALO lights that attach between the joists. Ultimately, just putting in some mud would be ideal.

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-18-2013 09:30 AM

Jon... Just my opinion.... but as you want an untextured ceiling, and a "fill" that won't be cracking over time... I would not trust just mud (hot mix which is speed set available any big box or regular mud) to hold onto your "lip" w/o some support.

I'd take a small piece of wood.... like off a paint mixing paddle... drill a couple of holes in it for the mud to penetrate and hold.... dab some adhesive on it's ends (liq nails or epoxy for fast set)... and slip it in the hole such that the glue grabs backside of drywall....

let it set... then fill/mud it.... it'll be sturdy enough so you can sand it flat

Best.... and GO BRONCOS this year

Peter

jonhayden 07-18-2013 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC (Post 1217431)
I'd take a small piece of wood.... like off a paint mixing paddle... drill a couple of holes in it for the mud to penetrate and hold.... dab some adhesive on it's ends (liq nails or epoxy for fast set)... and slip it in the hole such that the glue grabs backside of drywall....

let it set... then fill/mud it.... it'll be sturdy enough so you can sand it flat

Best.... and GO BRONCOS this year

Peter

Thanks for the suggestion Peter. I *think* I understand what you're saying. The problem is that the gasket and metal frame of the can light is flush with the existing drywall backing. So I can't shove anything in to the hole to hold a piece of drywall if that makes sense...the metal frame of the can would prevent it. Now maybe what I could do is put some liquid nails on the metal frame (remove the rubber gasket first) and glue a piece of drywall to the metal frame. And then I can just mud the joint.

I'm a Steelers fan in Broncos country :)

MTN REMODEL LLC 07-18-2013 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonhayden (Post 1217467)
Thanks for the suggestion Peter. I *think* I understand what you're saying. The problem is that the gasket and metal frame of the can light is flush with the existing drywall backing. So I can't shove anything in to the hole to hold a piece of drywall if that makes sense...the metal frame of the can would prevent it. Now maybe what I could do is put some liquid nails on the metal frame (remove the rubber gasket first) and glue a piece of drywall to the metal frame. And then I can just mud the joint. (Maybe... Guess I can't actually see it)

I'm a Steelers fan in Broncos country :)

Oh.... then screw your ceiling:thumbup:

Jon... I just mean across that little lip you'll be worried about... from the back/framing side of the drywall... as if you were in/had an attic with access to the backside.... just enough to give the mud some backing streangth/support.

Best

Peter

jonhayden 07-18-2013 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTN REMODEL LLC (Post 1217475)
Oh.... then screw your ceiling:thumbup:

Jon... I just mean across that little lip you'll be worried about... from the back/framing side of the drywall... as if you were in/had an attic with access to the backside.... just enough to give the mud some backing streangth/support.

Best

Peter

Gotcha! Just not sure how to get to the framing side now since I don't have access. It's only about a 1/8" gap I could squeeze a piece of wood in...unless I make the hole bigger. Actually, I might not even have a gap because the can light frame that the drywall sits on might come out even further than what my light trim covers. So the hole is bigger than my trim, but smaller than the can light metal frame the drywall sits on. I think you can see in the picture that it's all metal in the hole.

Also, I was just at home depot and is the hot mud the same thing as a bag of 5 minute setting compound?

Thanks again!

djlandkpl 07-18-2013 01:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonhayden (Post 1217523)
Also, I was just at home depot and is the hot mud the same thing as a bag of 5 minute setting compound?

Thanks again!

Yes it is. It also comes in longer time increments. It will start to cure in 5 minutes so work fast.


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