HELP!!Is this the way drywall is hung?

n0c7

No doubt, however, I've been able to save pieces of drywall in the past by carefully eyeballing where the screws are on the wall and measuring up to the seam to make my incision in the case of having to get behind a wall.

Now, that's typically a moot point if the walls have been painted more than once.

I've also had the unfortunate experience of hanging drywall alone and sometimes its nice to be able to unzip two place holder screws to shove up a piece that shifted on you instead of destroying the piece.

Michael Thomas

At least on the side abutting the adjacent wall the drywall (except perhaps right at the corner, depending on the width of the door's casing ) is not the finish surface, it's functioning as a shim over which casing will be installed.

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boman47k

I vote tear it out and close the gaps. Use vynle and paper corners. If possible cut the door out of as full pieceof drywall minus the width needed to eliminate joints at the corners of the door.

If the jams are too small, rip them and reinstall flush to the wall then use wider doorstop trim if you have to cover the open split in the jam. If you can use 3/8" where you are at, this should leave you enogh meat to attach the hinges firmly to the jams.

HOMEY

is this a hack job ??????how are u supposed to finish tape ??flat tape to the existing door trim ?or maybe thats why he wanted 1/4 inch ,so he could slip in behind the trim !..make sure he prefills the joints with sheetrock..at least it will expand when it sets up & keep er tight..the other repliers are right on though..door areas are so prone to movement..which makes cracking in your joints..too many joints..lol on this this job than i would like to tape.....

ARI001

Implies "modular".

Pictures also make it pretty obvious that it is not a double wide or anything like that. Confirmed by OP on the last post of the first page. Lets not get into semantics.

Coincidentally many of the "modular" homes I have done have had 5/8" drywall on the walls and ceilings. They are usually built to meet or exceed (due to transport) the strictest building codes but not necessarily the local codes if they are less stringent. They are inspected in the factory by third party inspectors. Only the work done by the set crew and on site connections, modifications, site work, and additions to the structure fall under the authority of the local building department.

Extending the front entryway could potentially have been done on site without an engineers seal. Many modular homes have framing work done on site post set. This work is usually encompassed in or falls under the building permit. I have also framed many large porch roofs without an engineers seal on them (affects wind performance) as well as minor framing modifications, stairs, garages, decks, and basements that all fell under the building permit(s) pulled for the job. You need a seal to alter structural elements or engineered elements of the structure not for wind performance.

A house is generally a large box or rectangle, it has poor wind performance and usually lack wheels and an engine thus will not be winning any races.

pyper

I've seen manufactured housing (HUD code) subdivisions put on foundations with cranes too. Two stories as well, with full basements. Not the most common thing, but they're out there.

The fellow from the factory said that the reason they use 2x6 walls and 5x8" sheetrock (on the ones I saw) was so they would hold up to being towed down the highway.

Thanks! I had been wondering about that. I recently met some guys who are going to use modular to build an apartment building. Pretty amazing.


If you go back and look, you'll see that I was referring only to HUD code homes ("mobile homes"). With modular you can do anything that's permissible under local building code -- now that the original poster has clarified that it is a modular home we know that the alterations could have been done under local building codes with any necessary permits and/or inspections...

With HUD code (not relavent to this thread any longer) you're restricted to the HUD code. Yes, I see large roofed porches on double-wides all the time, but unless they were designed by the factory (some are -- they can come with plans and details for how to attach the roof, etc) they are a code violation.

http://www.access.gpo.gov/nara/cfr/w...fr3280_08.html

ARI001

We do have building codes that are relevant to mobile homes here. The gist is regarding structures (decks, additions, etc.) that they must be free standing (self supporting).

pyper

Right -- because you can't do anything to the mobile home that will impact how it performs in the wind (without an engineers seal).

ARI001

No, it actually has to do with structural bearing capability. The building code, I am not referring to the HUD codes you mentioned.

pyper

Then I suppose it's a happy coincidence that it also causes compliance with HUD code.

ARI001