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Old 01-31-2014, 10:48 PM   #1
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Hanging drywall ceiling


Hi, I am hoping to find some help in this forum. We're planning on renewing the ceiling in our all hallway, which had a crack in it. So today we took the old ceiling drywall plus the insulation and all down. We're left with the joists and the walls and are kind of stumped. For one, there seems to be some kind if mesh wire around where the ceiling hits the walls on 3 our of the 4 walls. And then the adjoining wall that doesn't have the mesh has a bigger gap between joist and top of wall than the other side.

It's kinda hart to explain. So I am attaching some pictures. Basically we're wondering how we keep the new ceiling piece level with such a gap on one side. Afraid that once we tighten the screws the sheet will come up to the joist and leave a huge gap.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This is the first time we are attempting to drywall

Thanks
Stefanie
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Hanging drywall ceiling-image-1999962900.jpg   Hanging drywall ceiling-image-1789686489.jpg   Hanging drywall ceiling-image-1691673977.jpg  

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Old 01-31-2014, 11:19 PM   #2
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Hanging drywall ceiling


They used to use that Mesh, with the older GypRock. Basically Gypsum boards that were 18"x48", with a Portland type Plaster over coat. Just use a Sawz-all or Hacksaw blade, to cut that mesh out of there. You can use a mutli-knife, to remove the plaster/portland, to remove the mesh.

They you have to use Hot Mud, when you go to tape & mud all the joints.

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Old 01-31-2014, 11:25 PM   #3
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Hanging drywall ceiling


Thanks for the quick reply. We can try to cut that mesh tomorrow.

What about the gap between joists and drywall? In the pictures I attached it is above the door. That gap is bigger than on the other side. How so we keep the ceiling level?

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Old 01-31-2014, 11:26 PM   #4
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Hanging drywall ceiling


As far as the lower wall is concerned, you will fasten the drywall to the ceiling joists as you should then build that wall up to the ceiling. You might consider filling it in with Durabond 90. Then corner tape.

The mesh just means those other walls were built out of stucco, or some other material that is applied to mesh. I would just leave it unless it is interfering with with the new ceiling. In that case you could just cut that excess away. Now would be a good time to add recessed lights in the ceiling if you wanted more light in that hallway.
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Old 02-01-2014, 01:37 AM   #5
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I would lay sleepers of 1"x4" across those joists, so that the ceiling is going to be lower, but it will bring the new drywall down low enough, so you do not have to fill with a bunch of mud.

1x4 & 2x4 sleepers are used a lot in these kind of situations. You may be able to find Furring Channels, that are deep enough at your local Drywall supplier. Normally they are around 7/8" to 1 1/2" deep. http://www.clarkdietrich.com/product...el-hat-channel
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:18 AM   #6
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Hanging drywall ceiling


First you said there was a crack, was the crack along the joint, or in the sheet of drywall. A crack generally means something moved, check to see if you can find anything loose. Then you need to take a level and find out if you need to build the wall up or shim the joist down. Also use the level to make sure the joist is still level.
If you just build the wall up to the joist your ceiling could end up running uphill or if you just shim the joist down your ceiling could end up running downhill. Something doesn't seem right to have a gap that big on one side. I would do a lot of investigating before repairing
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Old 02-01-2014, 09:09 AM   #7
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I am going to guess that the short wall was installed after the ceiling was already up and covering the area where the wall sits. The gap is the width of the ceiling board(s) used. I would attach the new ceiling straight to the joists after ripping down a 2X4 to fit in that gap. Then you can secure the top of that wall to the joists as well to prevent future movement.
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Old 02-01-2014, 11:22 AM   #8
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Yes it's hard to tell from the pics but if the gap is 5/8" then the ceiling piece went on top of the wall piece. That is how it should have been done.
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Old 02-01-2014, 03:30 PM   #9
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Here's a tip no pro will ever give you as they wold consider a crutch. Cut at least 2 1 foot long sections of 1x4 and drill a 3/16" hole at the center point and make sure you have a couple of #8 2" screws. These will be used as temp supports.

Once you hoist that bad boy piece of drywall over your head screw one scab board about equal distance from each end into the joist at the center point of the board. That will hold it in place while you catch your breath and add the rest of the screws.
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Old 02-01-2014, 03:55 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Colbyt View Post
Here's a tip no pro will ever give you as they wold consider a crutch. Cut at least 2 1 foot long sections of 1x4 and drill a 3/16" hole at the center point and make sure you have a couple of #8 2" screws. These will be used as temp supports.

Once you hoist that bad boy piece of drywall over your head screw one scab board about equal distance from each end into the joist at the center point of the board. That will hold it in place while you catch your breath and add the rest of the screws.
Why would you say this google drywall dead man we use them all the time. It's really just a T square out of 2x4.
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Old 02-01-2014, 07:43 PM   #11
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Why would you say this google drywall dead man we use them all the time. It's really just a T square out of 2x4.

It wasn't meant as slight. It is a little home-grown. For such a small space and a one time job it is simpler and cheaper than a dead man or pump jack. The PJ is pricey and the dead man for newbies takes a 3rd person to get it in place.
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Old 05-21-2014, 12:05 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
I would lay sleepers of 1"x4" across those joists, so that the ceiling is going to be lower, but it will bring the new drywall down low enough, so you do not have to fill with a bunch of mud.

1x4 & 2x4 sleepers are used a lot in these kind of situations. You may be able to find Furring Channels, that are deep enough at your local Drywall supplier. Normally they are around 7/8" to 1 1/2" deep. http://www.clarkdietrich.com/product...el-hat-channel
how is the furring channel used? nevermind i got it....so you can screw drywall directly to them?

Last edited by federer; 05-21-2014 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 05-21-2014, 02:30 AM   #13
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Hanging drywall ceiling


'Normally', the ceiling is done first so that the walls push the edges of the ceiling up.

If it was me.....I would cut the drywall such that I could push the sheet up on the big gap side so that it fit into that gap. The other side is what it is.

Then...if there was a gap of more than 1/4", I'd fill it with 'Fixall'. Less than 1/8"....hell...that's good for our typical drywall hangers. Tape...mud..call it done.
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Old 05-21-2014, 04:25 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
'Normally', the ceiling is done first so that the walls push the edges of the ceiling up.

If it was me.....I would cut the drywall such that I could push the sheet up on the big gap side so that it fit into that gap. The other side is what it is.

Then...if there was a gap of more than 1/4", I'd fill it with 'Fixall'. Less than 1/8"....hell...that's good for our typical drywall hangers. Tape...mud..call it done.
when you mention fixall, do you mean something like this
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Building-Products-Patching-Compound/dp/B000BQM1G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1400660695&sr=8-1&keywords=fixall[/ame]

edit-looks like fixall is quite toxic though. nm!

Last edited by federer; 05-21-2014 at 04:39 AM.
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Old 05-21-2014, 11:10 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by federer View Post
when you mention fixall, do you mean something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Custom-Buildin...eywords=fixall

edit-looks like fixall is quite toxic though. nm!
That is the stuff....but you're not supposed to eat it.

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