Hanging drywall on ceiling

rightit · 05-23-2012, 08:11 PM

I'm about to hang drywall and of course, am starting with the ceiling. I'm using a combination of 8' & 12' x 5/8" sheets. I'll have a helper and a drywall hoist. I'll be hanging perpendicular to the joists. The ceiling is 200 sqft and 8' 2" high (from concrete to joist).

1. on the edge where the ceiling meets the wall: How close to the wall should that set of screws be? Just like other edges (3/8" or more from the edge)? Or should it be further into the sheet (away from the wall)?

2. Also, as mentioned, concrete to ceiling joist is 8' 2", which means (hanging horizontally on wall), there will be a 1 3/8" gap between the floor and the bottom sheet. I'm not sure what kind of floor I'll be installing, but I think 1 3/8" is a bit much, as I won't be able to screw into the bottom plate.

I'll be using baseboard, but for the sake of air sealing, keeping insects out and soundproofing (on one wall in particular), this presents problems. Am I missing something? What is recommended in these type circumstances?

Thanks!

sixeightten · 05-23-2012, 08:16 PM

How does drywall help keep insects out? Fill in a small piece at the bottom and let the baseboard cover the gap.

joecaption · 05-23-2012, 08:47 PM

Or buy wider drywall.
Any real drywall supply will have have it.

princelake · 05-23-2012, 09:13 PM

when screwing your ceiling boards keep about 6 inches away from the edge of the sheet, your wall sheets hold the edge of the ceiling boards. rip some 1/2" plywood for a filler strips on the bottom, its more solid when nailing on baseboard and you wont get moisture wicking up the drywall from the concrete.

rightit · 05-23-2012, 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by princelake

when screwing your ceiling boards keep about 6 inches away from the edge of the sheet, your wall sheets hold the edge of the ceiling boards. rip some 1/2" plywood for a filler strips on the bottom, its more solid when nailing on baseboard and you wont get moisture wicking up the drywall from the concrete.

Good ideas, princelake. My only caveat would be on the soundproof staggered wall, which will receive double drywall (the plyboard won't dampen sound well).

I'll likely use 6" baseboard, so for that wall, I guess I could cut 3 or 4" off the bottom of the outer and inner sheet and stagger them, i.e., use a 4" strip in the middle for the inner sheet, allowing it to bottom out @ 1/2" from floor, then tack a 4" strip to the bottom of the outer sheet. A bit convoluted in explanation, but I believe that'll work. Thanks!

Thanks also for the screw info.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixeightten

How does drywall help keep insects out? Fill in a small piece at the bottom and let the baseboard cover the gap.

Drywall in combination with air sealing. Air sealing everywhere. Thanks for the response. I'll use a bit of all the responses here.

Quote:

Originally Posted by joecaption

Or buy wider drywall.
Any real drywall supply will have have it.

Great idea, but I didn;t think about this issue when I ordered the rock. I placed it in the space before I closed in a wall. There will be no further drywall brought into that room unless it's cut into 4' sections.

Thanks again.

princelake · 05-23-2012, 11:07 PM

for sound proofing you should insulate the walls with safe and sound and solid core doors, if there is any kind of duct work (registers, cold air return) theres no point in doing anything cause the sound will go everywhere.

rightit · 05-23-2012, 11:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by princelake

for sound proofing you should insulate the walls with safe and sound and solid core doors, if there is any kind of duct work (registers, cold air return) theres no point in doing anything cause the sound will go everywhere.

I actually used mineral wool in that wall, as I needed to fit behind the staggered studs without touching (2"..."thinnest" safe and sound is 3.5"). Also, decoupled wall (2" mineral wool, 3.5" air space), double 5/8" drywall with greenglue inbetween on both sides of wall, double drywall joist openings between rooms, putty pads on all outlets on both sides, acoustic sound sealant at all seams floor plates and around outlet openings (both sides). That should give me an STC rating of around 58-60, but if that isn't enough, I can add one more layer of 5/8" drywall on other side.

Solid core door is planned (and there are two doors 4' apart to boot), foam inbetween door frame and door opening, door sweep. The space also has it's own central A/C system (so no ducts common with main space) with properly sized flex duct, strategic attentuation turns and isolated return air. System is sized to bring in and condition outside fresh air.

I'm determined. This room will keep sound in and keep sound out.

LarryM · 05-26-2012, 11:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rightit

I actually used mineral wool in that wall, as I needed to fit behind the staggered studs without touching (2"..."thinnest" safe and sound is 3.5"). Also, decoupled wall (2" mineral wool, 3.5" air space), double 5/8" drywall with greenglue inbetween on both sides of wall, double drywall joist openings between rooms, putty pads on all outlets on both sides, acoustic sound sealant at all seams floor plates and around outlet openings (both sides). That should give me an STC rating of around 58-60, but if that isn't enough, I can add one more layer of 5/8" drywall on other side.

Solid core door is planned (and there are two doors 4' apart to boot), foam inbetween door frame and door opening, door sweep. The space also has it's own central A/C system (so no ducts common with main space) with properly sized flex duct, strategic attentuation turns and isolated return air. System is sized to bring in and condition outside fresh air.

I'm determined. This room will keep sound in and keep sound out.

So where is your theater build thread

sevenlol · 05-28-2012, 09:26 PM

if you haven't already bought it, just get half of your wall rock at 54" wide. it will cause you a lot less headaches when finishing.

*edit*
oops, sorry, just read your last post