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Old 03-11-2013, 10:15 AM   #16
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If you are a beginner like me, I would advice you to avoid 4' joints. They are much tougher to get right. In other words, vertical.

If you are okay with joints, then nevermind.


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Old 03-11-2013, 02:22 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Beepster View Post
On an 18' wall that is 8' high, I came up with 84' of seams vertically and 78' of seams by doing it horizontally. For a DIYer (not a pro like you guys are), I believe the extra butt joints on horizontal hanging would make up the difference.

Just to chime in, HD here in the Twin Cities had 10' and 12' 1/2 drywall.

Here is how I came by the figures 4wallsx18'=72' for vertical 72' the distance around the room divided by 4' the width of a sheet of drywall = 18 sheets of drywall x 8' the height of the room (and the seam)= 144'
to eliminate butt joints

Last edited by ToolSeeker; 03-11-2013 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 03-19-2013, 09:55 PM   #18
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you can get drywall in 8' 9' 9'6'' 10' 10'6'' 12' 14' and 16' sheets for the length and 48'' or 54'' for the width. as far as thickness you can get 1/4'', 3/8'', 1/2'', 5/8'', and 1'' shaft liner but that come in 2' wide sheets (thank god). You can also get moisture resistant, abuse board (for high traffic areas), security board (for jails), lead board (hospitals), etc. I always hang my board vertical. I do this because I mostly do commercial and you have to on metal studs. also because you will generally have less butt joints. I only lay down 54" board because it was designed to be hung horizontally for lids up to 9'. also drywall is directional, notice on board it only has print on one side of the tapered edge. it is not recommended to butt two lettered edges against one another


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