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Old 03-12-2013, 03:14 PM   #1
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So, age old question....

I need to drywall my bathroom reno. As per a few other things, I jumped the gun on some decisions before fulling understanding/planning

I went out and bought a bunch of 4x8 drywall sheets. So Im curious which way I should be hanging them. I've read horizontal is (generally) the favoured and proper way to go. However, this results in some butt joints which a novice like me would have a hard time with mudding. Though I might get someone to do that for me anyhow. However, if I go vertical, I can perhaps end up with all tapered joints, and might be able to take a crack at it myself. Though I know that there can be problems with getting the sheets to end up nicely on the stud, as well as mudding up and down 8' is harder than across. I've also come to the conclusion that if I were to get a 12' sheet, I can go wall to wall on the longest wall, and not have any butt joints! But I am not sure I can get a 12' sheet into the room, even if I cut it down to the 10' or so size I need, as I have to go around a corner and then into a doorway in fairly quick succession.

Soooo, any suggestions on which way to go here? Should I get a 12' sheet and give it a try to see if I can get it into the room? That would be best right, go horizontal with that bad boy? one nice long tapered joint? (are tapered joints or butt joints better in corners?). The shorter walls in the room, I should go horizontal as well, correct?

Lastly, ceiling. Are ceilings ALWAYS hung perpendicular to the joists? Seems as though that would be easier yes?

Thanks,
Charlie

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Old 03-12-2013, 03:19 PM   #2
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Eliminating the butt joints is a plus especially for a novice finisher. You could also go vertical, which means none either. Give the big sheets a try and see. Perpendicular on the ceilings, and if the joists are 24" o.c. you need to use 5/8 drywall.

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Old 03-12-2013, 03:21 PM   #3
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LOL

Oh darn... 5'8"? I guess that makes sense. I am 24" OC. Looks like Im going to the store anyhow!
Do they sell 5/8" blueboard? (since it's a bathroom). at your bigbox store that is.

Thanks for the reply!
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:25 PM   #4
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I just did my remodel of my living room and used these for my butt joints.
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Old 03-12-2013, 06:29 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlieR View Post
LOL

Oh darn... 5'8"? I guess that makes sense. I am 24" OC. Looks like Im going to the store anyhow!
Do they sell 5/8" blueboard? (since it's a bathroom). at your bigbox store that is.

Thanks for the reply!
Blueboard is for skim coat plaster. Unless you mean greenboard(water resistant)

Last edited by 747; 03-12-2013 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 03-12-2013, 07:22 PM   #6
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Standard drywall is fine for a bathroom---properly painted,of course----
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:53 PM   #7
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As long as you have the 4x8 go ahead and use them. yes you will have more seams to do (call it practice) and yes you do need to end on halfway on a stud. your corners will be butts technically because they will be the cuts you make so your tapers will end on the stud.

And RTC don't they make life easier.
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:13 AM   #8
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Thanks everyone!

Ya, I have the 4x8's, and like I said, Im not confident I can easily, if at all, get a 4x12 into the room. So, I was remeasuring a few things this morning, and the longest wall is about 117".

If I got vertical, I would have 2 4x8" sheets that end nicely on studs, and a third that I would have to cut that would end on the corner stud. For whatever reason, there is a 20" gap between the corner stud, and the next one, so I might add one in there for some added support.

If I went horizontal, I would have a butt joint on the bottom and and on the top.

Would you guys go vertical/horizontal in this case? The house originally has plaster on 1/4" board. So in theory, the opposite side of this particular wall, still being plaster, is probably giving it lots of strenth already? So going horizontal for strength isn't as necessary?

The other walls are all smaller than 8' fo I could totally go horizontal corner to corner which would be better right?

On a side note, how easy is it to use one of those lift things? I was thinking of renting one to put up the 3 ceiling pieces, if it's easier/safer?
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Old 03-13-2013, 09:19 AM   #9
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Also, 747, I think it's the same thing. It's just blue here in Ontario. it's the moisture resistant drywall. I'll double check though to be sure.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:40 PM   #10
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And RTC don't they make life easier.
yes they do.
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Old 03-13-2013, 02:43 PM   #11
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Cut the first 4x8 in half hang that one then a full sheet till you get to the end and use the other half sheet at the bottom end up with a full sheet so your seems don't match up. gives better strength.
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Old 03-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #12
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RTC, that's assuming I end up going horizontally, right?
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Old 03-13-2013, 04:25 PM   #13
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RTC, that's assuming I end up going horizontally, right?
Correct
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:41 PM   #14
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The new lightweight 1/2" panels (at least USG) are good for "parallel or perpendicular installation on ceilings with 24" frame spacing with water based texture and overlaid insulation" according to the USG web site. No need for 5/8". I would assume the other manufacturers are the same. I would avoid butt joints if at all possible for a DIY"er. Stand the walls up if necessary. Your 117" wall may work horizontal. You'd be surprised haw much drywall will bend/bow around a corner. Of course cut it to length first. If you already have the board, I'd recommend standing it up. Do it all the time, say for 9" and 10' ceilings. And pretty much all commercial hanging on metal is stood up....
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:45 AM   #15
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Wish I would have read your reply a bit earlier! I ended up going and getting some 5/8" sheets. Guess it doesn't hurt, will just be more of a workout! :O)

so here are some other novice questions... looking for the answer in the forum, but getting sidetracked reading too many posts and haven't found it yet!

1 1/4" screws on 1/2" sheets on the walls? 1 5/8" screws on the ceiling (5/8") drywall? Is there a danger of using the 1 5/8" on the walls?

Is the norm to put screws in every 6" or so? (on every joist/stud).

Lastly, is a dimpler bit for my drill/driver sufficient? Or should I invest in an actual drywall gun? The room isn't that big, and I will likely be doing some other work in the future, so don't mind getting tools. However, at this point in time, if I can get by with the dimpler (or some other bit attachment), I'd probably go that way.

Thanks,
Charlie

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