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Old 03-22-2011, 06:57 AM   #46
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


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Originally Posted by nap View Post
I hate when that happens. Must be operator error.
Mine's working. Looks like Gary's is dropping the quote close.

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Old 03-25-2011, 01:21 AM   #47
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


drywall does serve a structural purpose with wood frame construction, that's why it's supposed to be hung perpendicular to framing members, staggered like sheathing or masonry, etc.
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:48 PM   #48
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


the reason we hang against the studs rather than standing the sheet up is so you can find your studs easily if you finisher is getting paid by the board you budget will suffer the standing way the finishers eyes light up when you say stand up if the finisher is worth ant thing you will never see the butts and you can buy custom cut boards if this still worries you about butt joints have you ever went into a commercial building and see a wall wave at you or role or see tape joints thru the paint there is maney reasons to lay it down and remeber you are takeing something already flat and adding mudd and tape to it it is no longer flat it is an opticle illusion your nails angels bead flats and butts are all uneven after tape is applied dont buy into a flat ideal lay it down and your finsher will do the majic if he is good if not it doesnt matter how ya hang it will still be bad
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:12 PM   #49
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


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Originally Posted by lrobertstoner View Post
The reason we hang against the studs, rather than standing the sheet up, is so you can find your studs easily. If your finisher is getting paid by the board, your budget will suffer. The standing way, the finishers eyes light up when you say "stand up". If the finisher is worth anything, you will never see the butts and you can buy custom cut boards if you're worried about butt joints. Have you ever went into a commercial building and seen a wall wave, roll, or show tape joints through the paint? There are many reasons to lay it down. Remember, you are taking something already flat and adding mud and tape to it; it is no longer flat, it is an optical illusion. Your nails, angels bead, flats, and butts are all uneven after tape is applied. Don't buy into a flat ideal - lay it down and your finisher will do the magic if he is good. If not, it doesn't matter how you hang it, it will still be bad.
Fixed, I think....
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:09 AM   #50
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


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i agree

I agree

The idea is you unless you are in a room over 12' in any dimension, you can run 1 sheet to cover the entire length of a wall by using 12' sheets. In a room larger than 12' in any one dimension, you add only the one vertical joint for walls up to 24' in length.

As an example, a wall 12' long, 8' high would require 40' of joint when laying horizontal.

If laying vertical, that number would increase by a huge percentage all the way up to 42'. Yes, a mere 2 feet difference in total joint length. I suppose if I was building a 100,000sq/ft building with 300 rooms it would be an important amount but in a few rooms, just not seeing the gain as a big deal.

To me, the difference is minimal but the greater detriment to the horizontal is an unsupported joint at 4' all the way around the room. I would much rather have every joint supported at a stud and that is why I prefer vertical.

The argument about the mudder not having to bend over with the single joint at 4' is ridiculous. If the guy can't bend over to run from ceiling to floor, maybe it's time to retire.

On top of that, laying horizontal is actually more work because you have to lift the upper piece. If you set the top piece first, it is a lot of weight because you hold it until you get it tacked in place. If you set the bottom piece first, you still have to lift the piece and set it on top of the lower piece.


sheet rock does add a structural element to the wall. By tying more studs together with one contiguous piece, it does add rigidity to those studs tied together as one unit. I give on that one argument.

the whole is greater than the sum of its parts.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:57 AM   #51
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


just do yourself a favor and go look at some coomercial building .
you will find every joint if it was stood up ,the way you finish a butt joint is as follows.
step 1 buy usg green lid mud
step 2 buy gympsum paper tape
step 3 make sure you have a tater masher or large drill 1/2 " or better and padel mixer
step 4 take your drywall pan dip it into water buckett fill 1/8th of pan with water.
step 5 take 5" knife and cut around the inner sides of buckett getting any dry mud away from sides
step 6 put water around the cut out sides and on top of middle
step 7 insert mixing device and mix
step 8 check cosistency off mud to desired thickness
i prefer it to be as thick as cake iceing
step 9 put mud in pan and grab youre tape
step 10 useing youre %" knife scoop out about half of the blade length ways coverd lightly cut acess mud off
step 11 apply mud in a forty five degree angel to wall , aplly pressure until mud starts moving agaisnt wall, then start pulling mud across the joint , be sure you keep the consistent
step elevn continue step 10 until hole joint is coverd with a smooth coat of mud
step 12 place tape over the seam makeing sure to center tape
step step 13 take a broad knife ( i prefer a 8") and wipe your tape down make sure you clean out any left over mud at both ends of joint

step 13 wait till dry
step 14 get you some all pupose mud blue lid if you are useing usg
step 15 mix this mud up do not add water this time but do all other steps to mixing the mud i layed out on the tape coat
step 16 this mud shoul be as thick as peanutt butter
fill pan up useing you 5" knife fill pan
step 17 take ten 10 knife (i like aimes knifes either finish of blade is fine) apply mud to straight edge cut acess and apply to joint covering only half of tape
step 18 repeat 17 to other side of tape ( this should make this joint around 20" wide
step 19 take 5" knife and place at top of joint in center at a 78 degree angle applt a small amount of pressure and pull all the way to the flat joint ( always pull mud to the flat joint in as fluid of a motion as possible)

step 20 (this should show you the center tape and depending on how flat of joint show you how much mud is needed on each side of tape)
take 10' knife and cut far side off mud down (edge of mud farthest away from the center of tape)
step 21 lay 10" knife in a 45 degree angle and addppresure pull like you would a flat
step 22 do outher side the same way
step 23 let dry
step 24 get 12" knife and repeat the same steps as prior usieng your 5" to cut the center and thin your mud up to the consistencey of pudding


if you follow these instructions and scrape your joint between each app the more experienced will find it the best way to do a butt and hide it i have taught around 18 people to finish drywall professionaly this is experience talking
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:17 AM   #52
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


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Why haven't drywall makers gotten smart and put tapered edges on all four sides?
if you look at your dry wall the but cut is perfect and flat if your sheet rock is hung correctly they fit together smooth most people hang and forgett about thier factory edge and place a factory beside a cut edge this will throw of your butt everytime
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Old 03-29-2011, 11:03 PM   #53
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


Ijust read through this interesting post. Here are my worthless conclusions.

1) The pro drywallers pretty much all say to hang horizontally for a multitude of reasons. All say butt joints are not an issue when you know what you are doing. Backer boards help.

2) The weekenders mostly say vertical, but for poor reasons. Mostly because they can't do a proper butt joint or drop the mudd all over the place.

I have done a little drywalling and yes... butt joints are tough. But I am no pro. I recently had my garage done and these guys taped it in like 1-2 hours per sesion. The butt joints were tapered out 3 feet wide. Practically not a single drop of mud dropped on the floor. The butt joints were practically flat and were not noticeable at all after painting.

My conclusin is I will go with the pro advice since that is all they do...all day....every day. Besides, every book on drywalling says horizaontal for all the same reasons noted in this thread.

Last edited by beerdog; 03-29-2011 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 03-30-2011, 10:40 AM   #54
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


i hope that all the pros have given you your answere.
there are maney great arguements about this subject and suggestions
dont let the butt joint scare you look at my post on running one and you will be fine if this is a crucial gotta be right job
do yourself a favor and creat a job to youre local drywall company
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:37 AM   #55
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Hang drywall vertical or horizontal


I don't care what any of you say; a butt joint is noticeable and if running drop ceiling, rigid kick moulding or crown moulding, it looks terrible because of the bulge.

and feathering it out 3 feet? how ridiculous. You might as well just used skim coat plaster at that point. It would have been faster since it is just one coat and when the plasterer walks away after the first coat, it's done.

I still argue a unsupported joint at ~4' all the way around the room is just a crack waiting to happen, especially in a garage.

but, to each their own. You guys can do it however you want. The last decent sized job I was on (+800,000 sq ft building), all the rock was set vertical.

Oh, and if you have to deal with fire codes, you really want to check which way you need to install the board.

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