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Old 06-14-2010, 09:16 AM   #1
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first time....


Well this will be my first time doing drywall... over the weekened we ripped down the drywall on one side of a wall that is 11ft long and 8 ft high... because it had no insulation in it (it was a wall that was between the attached garage and the house and it is supose to be insulated, the room behind it in winter gets very cold due to the lack of insulation)... wel the insulation work is all done...

now the fun part...

I Figured I could use two sheets of 12x4 drywall and make this a simple two sheet job (minus the outlet holes I need to cut, but already have a drywall hole saw for that part at least) any problems with 12x4 sheets I should be aware of? How heavy are they generally?

now for taping..... paper or mesh? I'd assume the pro's use paper but is one any harder then the other?

any pointers to know about with mudding?

also what is the best length of screw to use for this? it's just 1/2" drywall being screwed into 2x6's

and should I use construction adheasive on the joists before putting the drywall up? I've seen some places say to do this to make it more secure

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Old 06-14-2010, 09:45 AM   #2
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4x12 drywall will work fine provided you have enough space to bring them into the house. Use 1-1/4" course thead drywall screws.
Paper vs mesh is all preference. I prefer the mesh, others prefer paper. Use paper for the corners and ceiling. The most common problem with first timers using paper is that they usually end up with air bubbles after the mud is dried so if you decide on paper be sure to scrape the joint flat. Mudding typically takes 3 layers. Each layer gets wider as you go to feather out the joints using wider knives as you go. You can mix your own using Durabond (20,45,90) but remember to keep the layer thin...durabond is non-sandable. Or you can mix Sheetrock 90, again a thin layer (Sheetrock is sandable). Use the pre-mix mud for the final coat.

It doesn't hurt to use an adhesive but I usually only use it on ceilings.

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Old 06-14-2010, 10:28 AM   #3
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first time....


you say 20 45 90, what exactly does that number mean?
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:47 AM   #4
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Those are the number of minutes for dry time. I use 20 for quick repairs but 90 for larger jobs like yours.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:51 AM   #5
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I found a cool link for you to watch..hope it helps

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GktpHDoOsPo
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:54 AM   #6
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Good advice--Just a note on premixed muds- The stuff with the blue lid is very easy to sand and is used for the final coats--

The green bucket is for setting the paper--it is loaded with glue--

As Canadian club suggested--the durra bond can be used to embed the paper(or mesh) as well as filling gaps and holes,before the tape is applied.
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Old 06-14-2010, 02:32 PM   #7
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thanks guys!
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Old 06-16-2010, 01:00 PM   #8
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well got the drywall up, started taping yesterday... got the paper tape and embedded it got it nice and smooth can barely tell there was tape there besides the looks of it... no noticable bubbles in the tape so I guess it worked good...

this is strangely fun *LOL* second coat tonight....
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Old 06-16-2010, 07:25 PM   #9
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Remember--thin even coats---
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Old 06-16-2010, 08:54 PM   #10
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Just got done with my first serious attempt at taping and mudding after much reading. Did the kitchen last year but did not do such a good job. You are lucky if you just have tapered joints to deal with, much easier to hide than butt joints. There is lots of info here about hiding butt joints though. I am a fan of the paper myself. I even tried that self-sticking paper mesh stuff as opposed to the thicker fiberglass but wound up throwing it away. I got my butt joints feathered and smoothed for the most part.

Attention to detail is very important. I missed a few edges. You need to shine a bright light like a drop light all along your joints to make sure they are well sanded and blended in or, believe me you will see them when the paint goes on. My little mistakes are there to stay for now. I need to get the bathroom done. If I get tired of looking at them I will revise at a later date. I would consider hiring this done if my wallet would allow but got a lot of satisfaction with my own results, even with the mistakes.
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Old 06-17-2010, 08:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
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You need to shine a bright light like a drop light all along your joints to make sure they are well sanded

Good advice. I always us a touble light and vary the direction. I also use a sanding sponge by hand for best results
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:28 PM   #12
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got a question on inside corners (where you use the tape not corner bead)... I can get the tape in the corner and flat... the tape looked great... put the first coat over it yesterday, and it is very hard to get it into the corner without draing a line in the corner with your putty knives... will this go away on sucessive applications or is there a technique to this?
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Old 06-17-2010, 12:35 PM   #13
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You need to slant the knives slightly. Hard to describe but comes with practice. You can also buy a corner trowel cheap enough if it makes life easier for you. Just make sure that after to run your mud, level out the edges left behind for less sanding.
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Old 06-17-2010, 06:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
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You need to slant the knives slightly. Hard to describe but comes with practice. You can also buy a corner trowel cheap enough if it makes life easier for you. Just make sure that after to run your mud, level out the edges left behind for less sanding.
I will have to try my corner trowel again some time for setting tape. I can see where this would help get it off to a good start. It can be quite tricky getting tape set in a corner using a flat knife. I would prefer to finish with flat knife though to squeeze out all the excess mud. I also have found it esaier to do my finish coats with the flat knife but only one side then the other side after the first side dries. Practice is key. You can accomplish a lot of sanding by scraping with a dry knife.
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Old 06-18-2010, 07:08 AM   #15
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well got the thrid coat on yesterday... hopefully can get this sanded this weekend... and hopefully there is no major imperfections! would love to get this primed here so it at least matches in color the rest of the room

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