DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Drywall & Plaster (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/)
-   -   first post and I need some help (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/first-post-i-need-some-help-176555/)

shaydu 04-08-2013 03:36 AM

first post and I need some help
 
Hello everyone, I had some water wick up several inches up my wall and it needs to be replaced. Only problem that i could see is that it is near the outside corner and the i think the whole thing will need to be replaced. This will be my first time ever fooling with drywall. We are trying to sell the house and trying to DIY for most repairs. Ill have a pic to make it clear as to what i am talking about. Any advice would be much appreciated!! Thanks in advance!

http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/a...10/drywall.jpg

shaydu 04-08-2013 03:55 AM

after researching more I am guessing that i would need to remove the corner bead first, cut out the hole, replace the dry wall and corner bead and then use the mud? Does that sound about right?

747 04-08-2013 04:21 AM

First thing. Remove all baseboard below the problem area. Now post another pic.

Carefully. Small pry-bar go easy.

shaydu 04-08-2013 04:44 AM

thanks
 
will do when i get off work

oh'mike 04-08-2013 06:18 AM

Use a 5 on 1 Painters tool to remove the base board----that base looks like it is trapped behind the tile----so you may need to lay the tool on the tile and chop the base --use the tool like a chisel.

That drywall still looks solid---might only need a coat of mud.

ToolSeeker 04-08-2013 08:37 AM

That's what I thought too Mike. If it's dry sand off the rough, prime with BIN (so no chance of water spot ) skim with a little mud, sand, prime, paint.

joecaption 04-08-2013 09:28 AM

Someone installed that 1/4 round wrong. It should have wrapped around that corner so the gaps in the tile would be covered up.

shaydu 04-08-2013 05:02 PM

Thanks for the input guys. The wall is sturdy about 4 inches above the white area. The area that is white is still damp so i had planned on cutting it out. Would i still just be able to cover it with some mud if it was still damp?

As far as the 1/4 round, there was not enough space between the fridge and the walls to install it on the other wall.

Thanks again.

shaydu 04-08-2013 11:54 PM

So i removed the baseboard, and found that the drywall was alomst putty like. I scraped off what i could and found that the wood was was starting to mildew, mold, and rot. Whats next for me? Thanks i advance

http://i912.photobucket.com/albums/a...0/drywall2.jpg

Seattle2k 04-09-2013 12:56 AM

With a hacksaw held horizontal, cut the cornerbead at a 45 degree angle. Then pull off the bottom part. Then, with a utility knife, cut horizontally through the drywall. pull off the bottom part. Spray the moldy lumber with a mold killer, such as Concrobium (Lowes carries it). Wipe as much mold off as you can with a cloth. Spray again, scrub lightly, then wipe with another cloth. Measure, cut your drywall to the right size. You want to cut the tapered part of the drywall edge off and discard it, as you don't want the factory taper to be under your cornerbead or trim. Attach with drywall screws, making sure the screws don't tear through the paper. (Lowes/HD carry cheap drywall screwsetting bits, or you can use a normal phillips bit and take it slow. The screw heads should be just barely below the surface of the drywall without tearing through the paper face. Attach your new piece of cornerbead, mud the cornerbead with 2 coats. 2 coats of mud should cover the screws in the field. tape and mud the horizontal seam with 3 thin coats, feathering each one out a bit further, until about 10 inches wide on each side. use a 6" drywall knife to bed the tape in mud, then a 10" or 12" drywall knife for the top coats. Allow each coat of mud to dry fully before applying the next. After the 2nd coat, use your drywall knife to knock down any high ridges. After your 3rd coat, sand lightly with a fine sanding block. Prime, 2 coats of paint, then replace the trim.

shaydu 04-09-2013 01:03 AM

thanks for the deatiled instructions! In your opinion, the wood appears to be in good condition and just needs to be sprayed with the mildicide? That would be great if that was the case; i was starting to fear that i would have to remove the sill plate and the studs.

Seattle2k 04-09-2013 01:06 AM

I can't tell, but it doesn't look that bad. is the wood falling apart? how far in does the rot go? It looks like just surface mold. Can you stick a screwdriver into easily? If most of the wood is intact, clean it up and cover it.

shaydu 04-09-2013 04:26 AM

i dont think its falling apart. Ill have to double check when i get off work. Again, thats for the great info!

ToolSeeker 04-09-2013 07:23 AM

The only thing I might add is maybe put a fan blowing on the area for a while after cleaning. just to make it is dry before you cover it up.

shaydu 04-09-2013 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ToolSeeker (Post 1155261)
The only thing I might add is maybe put a fan blowing on the area for a while after cleaning. just to make it is dry before you cover it up.


yeah i agree with that. I used to work for a water damage restoration company. I just did the basic demo, baseboards, linoleum, hard wood etc. I never got involved with the restoration part of it though; just the demo and drying. we had a small leak in the kitchen last year. I called my former boss, and he let me use his equipment for free just so he didnt have to deal with it. I threw in a couple of dehu's and several fans. Needless to say i went against my better judgement and did a half a** job. Oh well live and learn.


Worse case scenario as far as i see it would be that the sill plate and studs have to come out. Is there any good way to take those out, or should i consult a professional that can determine if that area is load bearing?

Im calling it a night, yall have a good one.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:44 AM.