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-   -   Face damage after removing old chair rail - how to repair? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/face-damage-after-removing-old-chair-rail-how-repair-93516/)

spidrw 01-25-2011 09:06 PM

Face damage after removing old chair rail - how to repair?
 
I just removed some chair rail that was nailed to the wall with a machine gun, then caulked like crazy to hide the seams. I ran a blade along the top and bottom as deep as I could before I popped the rail off, but there was still a lot of paper tearing. I've tried to repair that kind of damage before, but it didn't go so well.

The face paper is rough, but it's still there - there is no bare rock. There are also some very thick, almost feel like cardboard, sections that are peeling off (maybe old wallpaper - I hate the 70s.) Is there some double-wide tape I can pick up to make sure everything looks nice or do I just need to put a wide, thin coat of mud on? I'm planning on putting up new (thinner) chair rail after I've patched everything up, so don't want to risk any cracking when I nail that up.

Thanks.

iminaquagmire 01-26-2011 01:43 PM

Sand what you have down smooth. Then wipe away any dust. Once cleaned, you can put a swipe of compound over it. If you get some pinholes or divots, a second coat may be needed. Then prime and paint. Tape is not the fix for this.

boman47k 01-26-2011 02:57 PM

Quote:

with a machine gun
:eek:

First, replace the gat with a small flat bar and a block of wood! :jester:

Seriously, I would remove whatever ridge from the old paint that was above and below the old rail. Cut, scrape, sand, whatever it takes to level them back down to the level of the field. Prime, mud, sand, prime, sand and paint. If using regular green bucket mud, as least two thin coats maybe three feathered out smooth.

I would probably go about 6 to10 inches past both sides of the repair. At least 6 feathered to nothing on the outer edges of the repair. The thinner the mud is, the less likely to crack.

Don't know what color it is being painted, but you may need to prime the whole wall.

P.S. If you prime just the repair area, try to feather your primer at the edges.

Prime all the rough area of the paper that is rough to seal the fuzzies down before applying mud.

Personally, I would use a good oil primer.

spidrw 01-26-2011 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boman47k (Post 578468)
:eek:

First, replace the gat with a small flat bar and a block of wood! :jester:


Ha, I meant they used a machine gun to nail the rail up. To get it down, flat bar and wood did the trick. :)

Thanks for your tip. Won't be a problem with a latex topcoat over the oil primer, right?

boman47k 01-26-2011 06:19 PM

Quote:

Won't be a problem with a latex topcoat over the oil primer, right?
Good to go.

bjbatlanta 01-28-2011 09:00 AM

Prime the area before you mud to seal any loose paper and keep it from blistering when the wet mud hits it. Otherwise, above advice is good....


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