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-   -   drywall in shower stall (http://www.diychatroom.com/f101/drywall-shower-stall-66203/)

bikswahla 03-07-2010 08:24 AM

drywall in shower stall
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hello guys

Hope I can find some help here, I have shower stall in second floor and it is leaking in my living room, After I contacted some contractor to replace the stall and its gonna cost me around 4000 $ so I thought of doing it my self, after fully assesed the floor and wall I see there was two tiles with heavy crack so I removed those two tiles and see the crack was developing on the concrete base which I think I can repair that, after removing two floor tiles I see the one of the wall tile was develpoing crack on the grout so I remove on of the wall tile and found the backing drywall is soft ( it is soft only on the bottom which was flushed with floor and ontop was hard) My question is instead of replacing the partial drywall what I can use to patch the bottom of the drywall , I am curious if I can use any ready to use concrete mix. Pics enclosed for reference.

Thanks for help

ccarlisle 03-08-2010 07:50 AM

Most contractors who have experience in showers know there's no "quick patch" for a leaky shower; and what your guy told you was probably close to the mark.

Because there is no cement product or no waterproofing membrane that exists out there that will do the job over the long term; sure these products can be found but there are to be used as part of a total system - not used individally.

Take RedGard waterproofing paint; it's a good product, it waterproofs. You could paint that underneath the tiles and put back the tile. But in six months, another tile will fall off, then another and all you would have accomplished is you might have bought yourself six months to save up the money you'll need to do the job right.

But that's all - because now you have an even larger project - and the money you spent on the RedGard might just as well been spent on poker.

The problem is almost terminal; you have one of the millions of showers that leak. It's only a matter of time before you have to do it again properly. Pay now or pay more later.

It's like trying to save money by putting off changing the oil in your car...only a matter of time.

kgphoto 04-08-2010 02:21 PM

Either your shower pan has failed or the shower was constructed improperly.

Regardless, you need to gut it and find out what is wrong and that is why it costs $4000 so that they will be able to stand behind it with a warranty.

A half measure would be to re-due, including the pan, the bottom third and hope for the best. I suggest a total tear out.

bikswahla 04-10-2010 02:30 PM

repair in shower
 
3 Attachment(s)
Well Guys

This was my first DIY project, after known leaky shower I find there were some cracked tiles, I pry them off and also I remove one tile from the wall, after I remove one tile from wall I can put my finger down there and see that I am having some serious issues, so I continue prying off some more tiles untill I see the drywall is dry and no more black mold. I also remove some tiles from the floor along the wall. I clean all the mold from the back and put new duraboard instead of regular drywall. Some tiles I removed from wall was cracked ( as this was my first diy) so found some similar tiles to put on the wall, so tiles goes back on the floor and on the wall, regrout the tiles. Actually I remove all the old grout from the floor and regrout and seal on the corner and it looks much better and we are using from last 2 weeks now without any leaks .

I am posting couple of pictures.

Thanks for the support guys

kgphoto 04-10-2010 03:11 PM

So how did you water proof that durock?

bikswahla 04-11-2010 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgphoto (Post 426778)
So how did you water proof that durock?

Duraboard it self is waterproof it is not a regular drywall it is made from cement and steel mesh, i asked my hardware store guy do I need water proof paint or something, he said no you dont need if you are using this.

kgphoto 04-11-2010 02:26 PM

Oh, I am so sorry to hear that. You were given very bad information. I am very aware what Durock or any brand cement board is made of.

If you have any scraps left over, put some in a glass and pour 1 inch of water. You will find that water wicks up and through the durock.

You should have put some surface applied water proofing over that before you tiled.

Please get a copy of the TIA manual to confirm what I am telling you.

You don't need to be concerned about damage to the durock, you need to be concerned about the damage to the wood behind it and the ceiling below.

bikswahla 04-11-2010 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgphoto (Post 427152)
Oh, I am so sorry to hear that. You were given very bad information. I am very aware what Durock or any brand cement board is made of.

If you have any scraps left over, put some in a glass and pour 1 inch of water. You will find that water wicks up and through the durock.

You should have put some surface applied water proofing over that before you tiled.

Please get a copy of the TIA manual to confirm what I am telling you.

You don't need to be concerned about damage to the durock, you need to be concerned about the damage to the wood behind it and the ceiling below.


I dont think so, i belive on my hardware guy know him from lasy couple of years, see this http://www.rd.com/18516/article18516.html

Thanks

kgphoto 04-11-2010 06:57 PM

Are you saying, " Don't confuse me with facts, as I already have my mind made up."?

I think if you do even a minuscule amount of research, you will find out I am giving you correct information and the hardware guy is dead wrong. I even supplied other resources to back up my information.

Check out Johnbridge.com if the TIA manual is too hard for you to come by.

Even the link you referenced has some waterproofing required, but this is the old approach and no longer recommended. Here is a direct cut and paste from YOUR link:

(Quote)
WATERPROOF THE WALLS

Staple 4-mil plastic to the studs (Photo 3). Use a single piece to avoid seams. Push the plastic tightly into the corners before stapling to avoid creating a bridge of plastic that will tear when you install the cement board. The plastic serves as a vapor barrier for the insulated wall and as a last defense against any water that may sneak through the tile and cement board. (End Quote) (Emphases in RED add by me).

tpolk 04-11-2010 07:11 PM

kg be on the money

Scuba_Dave 04-11-2010 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikswahla (Post 427031)
Duraboard it self is waterproof it is not a regular drywall it is made from cement and steel mesh, i asked my hardware store guy do I need water proof paint or something, he said no you dont need if you are using this.

Direct from the Mfg web-site

Quote:

Q: Can water penetrate a DUROCKŪ Brand Cement Board Next Gen?

A: Yes. However DUROCK Brand Cement Board next Gen in a finished application can store the small amount of water that gets past the tile, grout and the setting bed. In applications where the DUROCK System may be exposed to large amounts of water like on exteriors or in gang showers, USG recommends the use of a water barrier behind the board and flashing at the bottom of the wall to allow any intruding moisture a place to escape. Water does not harm the DUROCK Brand Cement Board.
Water will not harm the cement board
But it will rot out wood

spark plug 04-11-2010 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kgphoto (Post 425861)
Either your shower pan has failed or the shower was constructed improperly.

Regardless, you need to gut it and find out what is wrong and that is why it costs $4000 so that they will be able to stand behind it with a warranty.

A half measure would be to re-due, including the pan, the bottom third and hope for the best. I suggest a total tear out.

Also, the (existing dry wall should be replaced with water proof drywall (Green)! This is more proof that there are no half measures where leaks are involved. when all the additional parts that should be replaced, are summed up it comes pretty close to tearing everything out and redoing the job from scratch!:yes::(!

kgphoto 05-18-2010 01:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spark plug (Post 427305)
Also, the (existing dry wall should be replaced with water proof drywall (Green)! This is more proof that there are no half measures where leaks are involved. when all the additional parts that should be replaced, are summed up it comes pretty close to tearing everything out and redoing the job from scratch!:yes::(!

Actually - NO.

Green board is no longer recommended by the manufacturers and code for use as a tile backer in wet areas. You can go to the USG site for confirmation.

Green board was a total failure. Regular drywall with a surface applied water proof barrier (SAWPB) or some type of cement board with a SAWPB is required.

drtbk4ever 05-18-2010 01:43 PM

The OP bolted from this site after his screw up was pointed out to him. I doubt we will ever hear from him again.

Durt Ferguson 05-18-2010 01:53 PM

Maybe he did something to his hardware guy and is laying low for a bit now...


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