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Old 08-23-2013, 09:36 PM   #16
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Drywall paper face issue


To do all that it may be better to replace the 2 full sheets. Be sure to check the mold situation before you close it back up. Also double check the thickness in most areas 5/8" is code for ceilings.

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Old 08-23-2013, 09:43 PM   #17
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Drywall paper face issue


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I thought 3/8" was a little thin so I did take out a chunk about a foot off the edge and it came in at 7/16". Considering that the paper mostly gone on both sides I think I"m good with 1/2"
Sorry ceilings and I think that is your garage? Should be 5/8's. sheet rock comes in these thicknesses, 1/4 inch for cheapo moble homes, half inch for walls and 5/8 for ceilings and garages. There is no 7/16 sheetrock. Your making this harder then you have to tear out the hack job put in the new piece mud and tape. Done.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:59 PM   #18
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To do all that it may be better to replace the 2 full sheets. Be sure to check the mold situation before you close it back up. Also double check the thickness in most areas 5/8" is code for ceilings.
I was thinking 5/8" but what I have by all measurements is 1/2". I picked some up this evening and will put it up tomorrow after I pull out the insulation and re-install a vapor barrier since the foil faced vapor retarder looks beat.

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Sorry ceilings and I think that is your garage? Should be 5/8's. sheet rock comes in these thicknesses, 1/4 inch for cheapo moble homes, half inch for walls and 5/8 for ceilings and garages. There is no 7/16 sheetrock. Your making this harder then you have to tear out the hack job put in the new piece mud and tape. Done.
Nope not a garage just a bedroom. You have no idea... Good thing the wife it out of town this weekend.
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Old 08-24-2013, 03:57 PM   #19
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Drywall paper face issue


This question probably belongs in the insulation subforum but I didn't want to start another thread if I didn't have to.

I cleaned up the ceiling and have a nice square hole. I removed the insulation that was affected by the water (which came from either the plumbing vent or the hole in the roof for the vent both of which do not currently leak.



As you can see the original insulation is foil/kraft paper for facing. I would assume just throwing regular kraft faced insulation up there wouldn't be an issue, but should I be putting some of the radiant barrier first and then unfaced insulation on top?

Here is the damaged insulation if you were curious

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Old 08-24-2013, 07:10 PM   #20
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Drywall paper face issue


Standard craft paper insulation with the paper facing the room,will be fine---

Did it turn out to be 1/2" drywall?
1/2" is code for ceilings around here----except in Chicago---where 5/8" is required.
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Old 08-24-2013, 07:21 PM   #21
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Ok.

Yeah 1/2" drywall.
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Old 08-25-2013, 12:34 AM   #22
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Progress!



It's not that pretty and I couldn't find a stud for the one side so I put a piece of ply up there and secured it. I must have read my tape wrong because that same gap is wider than I was expecting. I'll put some setting compound in there tomorrow.
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:05 AM   #23
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Drywall paper face issue


Well you certainly aren't lacking for screws, ha ha. But too many is better than not enough on a ceiling.
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Old 08-25-2013, 01:22 AM   #24
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Drywall paper face issue


Yeah I know I put a lot in. I discovered a what a screw dimpler was today so I had to use it.

When I removed the old drywall the fasteners (standard nails, not ring shank) were 20" OC, no wonder I was getting nail pops.
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Old 08-25-2013, 02:14 PM   #25
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Ok hot mud is up and now that everything is clean is probably close to set. How long should I be waiting until I but the green top on with tape? I know once the easy sand is set it still technically isn't dry, should I be waiting a good long while for the joint to completely dry?

Why don't I think of these questions earlier?

Side note: that hot mud stuff is pretty cool asides from having to mix it myself which was a pain since it is my first time with it. Otherwise I found it really cool to work with.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:09 PM   #26
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You can put the top coat on any time the bottom coat is set. But you have to wait for the whole thing to dry before sanding or painting.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:50 PM   #27
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Ok. I just wanted to make sure that there wasn't going to be some weird interaction between the two types of mud (premix vs setting). I'll do that tonight since it's a nice day here to work outside.
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Old 01-06-2014, 11:41 PM   #28
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I just wanted to follow up with everyone since I've now finished the ceiling. Have to paint the walls now.



The actual drywall work didn't take too long (been busy with other things) although I did end up having to have a pretty wide joint. Overall it came out really well. I can see the patch if I stare at the ceiling while directly underneath it and even then is mainly a texture difference more than anything else.

Thanks again for the help guys.
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Old 01-07-2014, 06:27 AM   #29
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Good job. This is how DIY stories are supposed to go.....you jump in with both feet....ask questions...get answers...get it done....

Is it as good as a pro? Maybe. Did it take you longer than a pro? Yep. Do you have a lot of satisfaction doing it yourself? Oh, hell yea.

Next time there won't be any questions....you will know what to do.

Doesn't it feel good?
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Old 01-07-2014, 05:54 PM   #30
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It feels damn good. Now if it wasn't so damn cold I'd paint the rest of the room.

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