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Old 08-23-2013, 12:25 AM   #1
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Drywall paper face issue


I've been working on getting the upstairs of my house painted, patching nail pops, filling divots, sanding paint drips, ect... The one room had a really nasty patch on the ceiling so I figured I would fix that as well. Ended up finding that there wasn't a lot supporting the area and at one point there was a leak. I ended up pulling off a few layers of the paper facing while removing the patch. Do I need to cut this large portion out or can I paint it with a primer/sealer to keep what's left of the paper together?




My plan was to go into the attaic and add some 2x4s to secure the area. I think I'm going to have to cut a 3" channel and put some fresh drywall in as well at the joint since the existing drywall isn't in great shape.



I was also going to add some drywall screws to the field since there doesn't seem to be a lot of fasteners 1 every 24"

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Old 08-23-2013, 01:11 AM   #2
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Drywall paper face issue


I would replace that and do it right. Sorry but that is just hack job. You need to do it correct.

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Old 08-23-2013, 05:42 AM   #3
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Drywall paper face issue


replace it
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:19 AM   #4
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Drywall paper face issue


Time for new---------
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:34 AM   #5
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Drywall paper face issue


Ok... Wanted to avoid it if I could but if that's the right way so be it. Any good tips on how to make it look good? That's a 3x3.5' area and would essentially be but joints all the way around.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:42 AM   #6
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Drywall paper face issue


Remove the unpainted area---to the center of the nearest joist--or to the edge of the joist and then add a nailing strip---

replace the sheet--use 20 minute easy sand to fill any big gaps (if you have any)

Use paper tape---use multipurpose (green lid) to set the paper--that mud contains glue and will bond the best---

use the same mud for the first coat or two (powdered Easy sand could be used instead but is more difficult for a novice)---then use Light Weight (blue lid) for the final top coat--it's soft and easier to sand than bag mud or multi purpose--
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:54 AM   #7
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Drywall paper face issue


Gardz is made for damaged drywall like that. However that's really too big a gap you have there to be filled in with tape and joint compound, so you might as well redo it.
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:11 AM   #8
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Drywall paper face issue


Just going to have to end up with about a 12" wide tape seam to level it all out enough to not show.
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Old 08-23-2013, 09:00 AM   #9
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Drywall paper face issue


Just my opinion but some gardz, easy sand, paper tape, mud, would be a lot easier than replacing those 2 sheets of dry wall.
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Old 08-23-2013, 01:06 PM   #10
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Drywall paper face issue


Quote:
Originally Posted by ToolSeeker View Post
Just my opinion but some gardz, easy sand, paper tape, mud, would be a lot easier than replacing those 2 sheets of dry wall.
That was my original thought

Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Just going to have to end up with about a 12" wide tape seam to level it all out enough to not show.
Ok

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Originally Posted by jeffnc View Post
Gardz is made for damaged drywall like that. However that's really too big a gap you have there to be filled in with tape and joint compound, so you might as well redo it.
That's why I was thinking of cutting a channel down the center of the gap and putting a strip of drywall in there. The water damage has not been kind to the drywall, nor has my hacking away at the joint.

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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Remove the unpainted area---to the center of the nearest joist--or to the edge of the joist and then add a nailing strip---

replace the sheet--use 20 minute easy sand to fill any big gaps (if you have any)

Use paper tape---use multipurpose (green lid) to set the paper--that mud contains glue and will bond the best---

use the same mud for the first coat or two (powdered Easy sand could be used instead but is more difficult for a novice)---then use Light Weight (blue lid) for the final top coat--it's soft and easier to sand than bag mud or multi purpose--
Interesting comments on the green lid stuff. I've been using blue lid for most of my repairs since they are minor. Thanks.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:06 PM   #11
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Drywall paper face issue


Ok so now that I'm home I poked around a little more. Gardz is out. I wanted to measure the thickness of the drywall so I could pick up a sheet if I decided that was the route I wanted to go. The paper on the top of the drywall was done and a substantial chunk fell out of the ceiling that if I were a betting man probably had some mold on it. The upper surface of gypsum was exposed and had clearly seen better days. Looks like I'll be replacing the section.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:14 PM   #12
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Drywall paper face issue


It's not that big of a job---because you do not have tapered edges---plan to feather that tape joint out about 20 to 24 inches----be patient---thin coats----thin----
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:28 PM   #13
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Drywall paper face issue


Yeah I learned the thin lesson while working in the laundry room. Would 1/2" drywall taper to about 3/8"?

I know I'm not getting tapered drywall for this project but I think what was there was tapered and why I got two different measurements.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:34 PM   #14
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Drywall paper face issue


The taper is about 3/8----back in the 1950s they did use 3/8 drywall on economy work---cut out a square and really check it--I do not know if it is still available-----
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:38 PM   #15
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Drywall paper face issue


I thought 3/8" was a little thin so I did take out a chunk about a foot off the edge and it came in at 7/16". Considering that the paper mostly gone on both sides I think I"m good with 1/2"


Last edited by info2x; 08-23-2013 at 06:39 PM. Reason: I can't type
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